Can anybody help with trying to sort why my tachometer doesn't work - there's no movement in it at all?
I've just bought an 89 Mini 30 and this seems to be the only electrical fault I can find. I was wondering whether there might be a problem with the coil (I'm assuming it has a ballast resistor)?
Rev Counter Not Working
Started by
Guest_mark clark_*
, May 21 2010 04:55 PM
7 replies to this topic
#2
Pauly
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Posted 21 May 2010 - 07:38 PM
Check the 2 connections to the rev counter at the back first, if it was a problem with the coil then you would suffer engine problems aswell.
#3
Guest_mark clark_*
Guest_mark clark_*
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Posted 21 May 2010 - 08:32 PM
Just taken it for a first drive in the dark and just found the instrument lights aren't working either!
Then put main beam on and the radio cut out temporarily!
Then put main beam on and the radio cut out temporarily!
#4
Guest_mark clark_*
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Posted 21 May 2010 - 08:38 PM
Just remembered, the fuel gauge has just started to read inaccurately too, but the speedo works!
I had the instrument panel out and I can't see anything out of the ordinary.
I had the instrument panel out and I can't see anything out of the ordinary.
#5
electricjim
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Posted 22 May 2010 - 12:29 PM
first check i would do would be on the fuse box make sure you have volts on both sides with no volt drops. i had my side lights and instrument dash going off at one point last year and it turned out the be the copper pin that holds the connections to the fuse clip was loose.
#6
Tomar2
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Posted 22 May 2010 - 01:03 PM
Take out the clocks and remove the flimsy plastic circuit board. Clean all the spots on the circuit where the bulbs sit and most importantly the main plug connections. Make sure it's all down to bare copper and there's no dirt (Wd40 or white spirit with some slightly cloth/pot scrubber). Even if it means scraping it lightly with a blade (just dont go too deep).
If it's nothing majorly technical, that should sort it. Removing the clocks just involves a couple of screws and a wiggling. Oh and when it comes to putting all the screws back In the back, remember where the sorter ones went
. The clock assemblies are all very simple. G'luck
If it's nothing majorly technical, that should sort it. Removing the clocks just involves a couple of screws and a wiggling. Oh and when it comes to putting all the screws back In the back, remember where the sorter ones went
. The clock assemblies are all very simple. G'luck
#7
balloonatic97
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Posted 22 May 2010 - 01:25 PM
Check the alternator. My boyfriend used to have the same full beam/radio problem with his mini. Turned out to be something to do with the alternator. And whenever my rev counter cuts out, its something to do with the fuse, but then again when my rev counter cuts out, so does my radio and windscreen wipers!
As for the petrol gauge, my doesn't work either! Lol
As for the petrol gauge, my doesn't work either! Lol
#8
Guest_mark clark_*
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Posted 22 May 2010 - 08:28 PM
I think the problems with the stuff other than the tacho may have started when I checked the fuses - I found 35amp fuses supplying Nos. 1 & 2, 3 & 4 and 5 & 6 (heater blower motor, windscreen wipers, instruments),and a 20amp fuse suppliying 7 & 8 in the fuse box.
On checking my Haynes manual, it's showing that they should be 35, 25, 25 and 15 respectively. I replaced the fuses with the correct ones and also re-attached a light green/orange wire, which was slightly thicker than the one that was connected, to No 6. Everything other than the tacho was working before re-attaching that wire, but after doing so, the new 25amp fuse I had replaced, blew. Any ideas why this might've happened?
On checking my Haynes manual, it's showing that they should be 35, 25, 25 and 15 respectively. I replaced the fuses with the correct ones and also re-attached a light green/orange wire, which was slightly thicker than the one that was connected, to No 6. Everything other than the tacho was working before re-attaching that wire, but after doing so, the new 25amp fuse I had replaced, blew. Any ideas why this might've happened?
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