A while ago i purchased a reconditioned smiths rev counter from ebay, the problem is that when it arrived the instructions stated that it was for use on the standard distributor setup and wouldnt work with units such as my magnetronic one. Im not very well clued up when it comes to electricals but i cant see why this would make a difference, they are both doing the same job in the end arnt they?
Can anyone confirm wether or not it will work on electronic ignition before i fit it and fry a perfectly good piece of kit please? The number on the face of the clock is RVI 2430/01
Cheers
Crossy

Rev Counter Compatibility
Started by
crossy71
, May 29 2010 08:11 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 May 2010 - 08:11 PM
#2
Posted 31 May 2010 - 12:52 AM
I've just fitted a TIM tacho to mine which is a 1980 mini 1000 with magnetronic ignition. 1985 on engine, Non ballasted coil...
Only had 4 wires to fit. One to the + on the coil, one to the - on the coil, the third was earth and the last one was for illumination.
Works fine.
Only had 4 wires to fit. One to the + on the coil, one to the - on the coil, the third was earth and the last one was for illumination.
Works fine.
#3
Posted 31 May 2010 - 10:01 AM
Think this will be of use...
http://www.theminifo...p;#entry1417334
I have an RVC smith's tach out of an MG waiting to be fitted however I can't for the life of me remember how it connects - if the instructions that came with yours also cover the RVC type I'd be very grateful for a scan!
http://www.theminifo...p;#entry1417334
I have an RVC smith's tach out of an MG waiting to be fitted however I can't for the life of me remember how it connects - if the instructions that came with yours also cover the RVC type I'd be very grateful for a scan!
#4
Posted 31 May 2010 - 01:46 PM
Smiths RVI and RVC tachs are very, very different.
Crossy71, the RVI tachs like you bought sense current pulses. Electronic ignitions have a different "pulse profile" for the coil current than points ignitions. There are the occasional RVI tachs that will work with electronic ignitions but MOST do not. If they work at all, the reading they give is incorrect. If you visit the Speedy Cables web site and look for their page on impulse tachometers you will find more information about this tach and how to wire it up.
Mr. Bridger and Wile-E, the later RVC tachs (and TIM tach) are voltage pulse sensing. They are compatible with virtually all ignition types. They hook-up is easily. On the back of the gauge you will find two spade lugs. The one connected directly to the gauge case is for an earth wire. If you don't have a spade on the case, use a ring terminal on an earth wire and secure it to one of the two threaded mounting studs on the back of the gauge. The second spade terminal will be on an insulating block on the back of the tach. That spade gets switched 12V power. The final connection is a male bullet connector on the insulator block. That gets a wire (preferably white/black if you can find a source for that color) and the other end of that wire is connected to the coil (-) terminal. That's the side of the coil connected to the distributor, not the side of the coil connected to the ignition switch.
Crossy71, the RVI tachs like you bought sense current pulses. Electronic ignitions have a different "pulse profile" for the coil current than points ignitions. There are the occasional RVI tachs that will work with electronic ignitions but MOST do not. If they work at all, the reading they give is incorrect. If you visit the Speedy Cables web site and look for their page on impulse tachometers you will find more information about this tach and how to wire it up.
Mr. Bridger and Wile-E, the later RVC tachs (and TIM tach) are voltage pulse sensing. They are compatible with virtually all ignition types. They hook-up is easily. On the back of the gauge you will find two spade lugs. The one connected directly to the gauge case is for an earth wire. If you don't have a spade on the case, use a ring terminal on an earth wire and secure it to one of the two threaded mounting studs on the back of the gauge. The second spade terminal will be on an insulating block on the back of the tach. That spade gets switched 12V power. The final connection is a male bullet connector on the insulator block. That gets a wire (preferably white/black if you can find a source for that color) and the other end of that wire is connected to the coil (-) terminal. That's the side of the coil connected to the distributor, not the side of the coil connected to the ignition switch.
#5
Posted 31 May 2010 - 02:43 PM
dk - top man thank you! (thread intrusion over...)
#6
Posted 03 June 2010 - 11:01 AM
Thanks for the info guys, looking at this i dont think im going to risk damaging the tacho so looks like it will end up back on ebay to go towards another 1 that will work
Sorry wile e only have the instructions for the RVI type
cheers

Sorry wile e only have the instructions for the RVI type
cheers
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