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Fitting New Engine Mounts


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#1 Cater_Racer

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Posted 12 June 2010 - 07:45 PM

Model:MK I
Year:1964


I'm trying to fit new engine mounts without removing the engine, got it jacked up, any special techniques? or do I have to lift the whole thing?


Cheers, Cater Racer.

#2 bmcecosse

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Posted 12 June 2010 - 08:40 PM

Just do one end at a time - i suggest do the clutch end first. Then if having problems at the rad end - you can pop the rad out for easier access.

#3 Cater_Racer

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 06:30 AM

Just do one end at a time - i suggest do the clutch end first. Then if having problems at the rad end - you can pop the rad out for easier access.


Thanks bmcecosse, I've taken your advice, got the old one out and nearly got the new one in, it's attached to the clutch housing, but I'm having problems getting it to sit down low enough to get the two sub frame bolts in. Guess I'll have to find a fat friend to sit on the engine, while i fiddle with the bolts.

#4 MiniLuke

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 07:28 AM

Took me a whole day trying to get my new mounts to line up. I found the new mounts were fatter (as expected i guess) but also the two sets of holes were further apart than the old ones meaning the engine needed to be even lower to line them up.

After a lot of swearing etc I got them in, but as I said it took a very long time.........................

Good luck

#5 Dave33

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 09:43 AM

You can enlarge the holes in subframe a bit,and put some grease on the mount/subframe to allow ease of movement.
hth
dave

#6 Cater_Racer

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 02:58 PM

Well, I've struggled all day today, and still not got them in.....

I also tried the UES from minisport, and it won't fit!! it fouls the heater hose and the tappet cover breather. So it's back to the drawing board.

Edited by Cater_Racer, 13 June 2010 - 03:03 PM.


#7 mk=john

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 03:04 PM

Just do one end at a time - i suggest do the clutch end first. Then if having problems at the rad end - you can pop the rad out for easier access.


Thanks bmcecosse, I've taken your advice, got the old one out and nearly got the new one in, it's attached to the clutch housing, but I'm having problems getting it to sit down low enough to get the two sub frame bolts in. Guess I'll have to find a fat friend to sit on the engine, while i fiddle with the bolts.

Hi
Everyone who has ever replaced an engine or engine mounts has this problem! Anyway, the problem is the lower end of the mounts lining up with the subframe...am i right?

Anyway, what i did was to stick a flat bladed screwdriver into one of the fixing holes, and twist it so it sort of lines up.
Just enough so I could tap the bolt into the adjacent hole with a hammer. I know thats not good engineering practice, but if threads arent damaged I cant see an issue!

Thats just what i did however and it seemed to work for each side.
John

#8 Cater_Racer

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 06:03 PM

Thanks John, I've got a screwdriver into one of the holes now. The other one is off line, and if I take the screwdriver out it all moves. So I'll sleep on it with the screwdriver in place, and fight on tomorrow. :shifty:

#9 mk=john

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 06:06 PM

Thanks John, I've got a screwdriver into one of the holes now. The other one is off line, and if I take the screwdriver out it all moves. So I'll sleep on it with the screwdriver in place, and fight on tomorrow. :shifty:

Hi
If you have got them to sort of align with the screwdriver in, try and force the bolt through the adjacent hole at an angle by tapping with a hammer. These adjacent holes will likely not be quite in line either, but enought to allow you to force the bolt through at an angle. The rubber should give enough before any damage occurs to the threads.

Bye the way, keep the screwdriver in position in the hole, while you try and force the bolt in the other hole....don't let go!! I think you said that's what you did.

I would try again tonight....then you can rest easy!

Edited by mk=john, 13 June 2010 - 06:12 PM.


#10 Cater_Racer

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 08:14 PM

Thanks John,

I'm through tonight, but I'll have go in the morning.....................


One of the advantages of being retired. :D

Cater

#11 Cater_Racer

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Posted 15 June 2010 - 03:41 PM

Well I've done it! Nearly went down the route of enlarging the holes, but thought about it for a couple of days, (It was cold and wet, so I didn't rush it), and came up with a reasonable solution that may help others.

I undid both sides, and the top stabiliser bar, then with sub-frame supported by axle stands, jacked up the engine about 2 inches.

Then put the new mounts on the engine, lowered it and it was half and inch out on one side or the other, depending upon which way you lowered it.

So I pushed the clutch side down and put the two bolts in but not fully tightened up, then I put a a strap round the lower part of the gearbox where the radiator and engine mount are located at the front of the engine.

Then slipped the trolly jack through the strap and pumped the jack up against the sub-frame.

This effectively pulled the engine down into the subframe, and bingo! the two bolts slipped in without effort!

So I'm now all bolted up with new engine mounts. Next I need to engineer the UES to avoid the tappet chest breather.......

#12 Pooky

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Posted 15 June 2010 - 03:54 PM

That sounds like a fantastic method of doing it! I've struggled with new engine mounts a few times and have mostly had to lever it in with scaffold poles etc but your method sounds great!

#13 briain

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 07:49 PM

thats a brilliant idea was having the same problem can only get one bolt in either side so will try this

#14 Spitz

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 08:03 PM

Before reading your last post Cater, I was going to suggest taking off the other side...much easier.
But...I was amazed to read you hadn't released the engine steady on the first go! Would have been the very first thing I'd have done.




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