My brother has a Mini 30 and when he parked it in the garage last week it was fine. He left it a few days and when he came to use it again, he couldn't press the clutch pedal (it's rock solid) but he can start the engine and move the gear lever into any gear, so the clutch must be disengaged.
Is this a hydraulic problem? Master / slave cylinder? Anyone any ideas?
Phil

Clutch problem
Started by
Phil_H
, Nov 20 2005 12:30 AM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 November 2005 - 12:30 AM
#2
Posted 20 November 2005 - 01:15 AM
usually its the arm that jams up in my experience. Best bet for a quick fix is to soak the pivot points of the clutch arm, especially where it sits in the plunger in WD40 or some penetrating oil. let it soak in a bit and try and persuade the arm to move with a crowbar/bfh.
or to do it properly, take off the clutch arm and clean and grease the pivot points, maybe renew the pins aswell if they're worn..
i'd give that a try first seeing as it costs nothing. if that dont cure it then it could be a duff slave cylinder.
Nick
or to do it properly, take off the clutch arm and clean and grease the pivot points, maybe renew the pins aswell if they're worn..
i'd give that a try first seeing as it costs nothing. if that dont cure it then it could be a duff slave cylinder.
Nick

#3
Posted 20 November 2005 - 08:50 AM
As you say the clutch must be dis-engaged, and the only explanation for that when placed in the garage, the arm/plunger stuck, the fact that the pedal is now solid, is over those two days the hydralic fliud has back filled and is now preventing the pedal from moving...
It may be just as simple as relieving the pressure on the arm by opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder ( slowly and a pipe on it as you may get clutch fluid everywhere ) at worst that'll proved that it's not a problem with the hydralics as the pedal should move freely with the bleed nipple open..
It may be just as simple as relieving the pressure on the arm by opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder ( slowly and a pipe on it as you may get clutch fluid everywhere ) at worst that'll proved that it's not a problem with the hydralics as the pedal should move freely with the bleed nipple open..
#4
Posted 20 November 2005 - 01:30 PM
Just fixed mine this morning after five weeks. Same problem.
Its the plunger that pushes the release bearing. Cold damp days cause slight rust on the exposed part of the plunger, when the pedal is presssed it gets jammed in the housing with the clutch realeased. The clutch leaver will not return as the plunger is siezed so the slave cylinder piston stays where it is, when the pedal is depressed again, all you are doing is filling the cylinder with fluid, ( much like you pump the breaks and the pedal gets harder) and the pedel then becomes hard.
Easy fix. Use a lever of some sort and lever the top of the clutch arm towards the engine. Once its back to its normal possition use some GT85 ( contains tefflon but anything with graphite or similar will do) on the exposed part of the plunger, then let it soak for a while, re spray it and try the clutch a few times. Job done
Its the plunger that pushes the release bearing. Cold damp days cause slight rust on the exposed part of the plunger, when the pedal is presssed it gets jammed in the housing with the clutch realeased. The clutch leaver will not return as the plunger is siezed so the slave cylinder piston stays where it is, when the pedal is depressed again, all you are doing is filling the cylinder with fluid, ( much like you pump the breaks and the pedal gets harder) and the pedel then becomes hard.
Easy fix. Use a lever of some sort and lever the top of the clutch arm towards the engine. Once its back to its normal possition use some GT85 ( contains tefflon but anything with graphite or similar will do) on the exposed part of the plunger, then let it soak for a while, re spray it and try the clutch a few times. Job done

#5
Posted 26 November 2005 - 06:49 PM
Thanks everyone,
I'll let you know how I get on.
Best wishes,
Phil
I'll let you know how I get on.
Best wishes,
Phil
#6
Posted 22 January 2006 - 03:51 PM
Finally got around to fixing it............. exactly as Mini Sprocket suggested.
Had to let the fluid out first, but other than new fluid (that we had anyway) a no cost repair!! And that can't be bad!!
Thanks everyone, happy motoring...............
Phil :grin:
Had to let the fluid out first, but other than new fluid (that we had anyway) a no cost repair!! And that can't be bad!!
Thanks everyone, happy motoring...............
Phil :grin:
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