11 replies to this topic

[monkeymonk]

Hi,

My mini failed it's mot a few days ago due to excessive play in the lower suspension ball joint.
I've bought a ball joint kit. How do i go about fixing it?

Sam

[samsfern]

for starters, youll need a balljoint splitter, a socket for the driveshaft nut, mines 34mm, not sure whether yours will be the same though, and a deep inch and half socket, and the normal spanners and sockets, the haynes manual explains it better than what i would.

Edited by samsernie, 14 June 2010 - 08:14 PM.

[AndyMiniMad.]

You will find it sooooo much easier to change the ball joint if you remove the whole hub. especialy as its the bottom one. once you have the hub off place it in a vice and undo the big nut which holds the ball joint. you can use a ring spanner if you dont have the deep socket to go over the tapper arm. dont forget to knock back the tabs on the washer first. once its loose carefully remove the old ball joint bits, but keep hold of the shims for now. you may need them when rebuilding the joint. (shims)? very thin washer looking things.
Next lap in the new ball joint by temp building up the joint with a small amount of valve grinding paste but just hand tight, then use a battery drill on slow speed to spin the joint. tighten a bit more and spin again.
now take everything apart and clean very thoroughly. (really clean) you need to get rid of all the grinding paste.
now reassemble the joint with some of the shims in place an tighten it up.
Its trial and error at this stage im affraid as you dont know which shims to use, some old some new. But when its correctly shimmed you should still be able to move the joint (just), with the big nut done up tight.
By move the joint I mean with a gentle tap with a rubber mallet or with a ring spanner over the shaft. it should be to thight to move by hand. unless you are very strong.
When you are done close the tabs on the big washer and refit the hub to the car.
All the bits you need will be in the kit. new tab washer shims etc.
Good luck with this as I can honestly say this is my least fav job EVER!!!

[monkeymonk]

looks like this could be fun.......

I'll see if i can follow your instructions

[AndyMiniMad.]

You never know....... you may be the first to enjoy this job...Or maybe its only me that hates it. lol

[reffle]

I saw a great descriptive video a while ago for the job on youtube

Always remember to knock the locking tab over them well once they're done!

[daviesja]

I have this problem too (and thanks for the video!!). one question..
I only have the problem in one side (off-side ball joint) is it best to replace both sides.?

[Ethel]

I'd be happy to do just one, but if one's gone the other will have been subject to similar use, so keep an eye on it at least.

You could remove the brake caliper and detach all 3 ball joints so you can turn the hub upside down, on the car, and avoid splitting the driveshaft to remove the hub. Be careful not to pull the pot joint to pieces though.

Bottom ball joints are spring loaded, so do have (vertical) play; I'll give the tester the benefit of the doubt if he didn't fail both sides.

[tiger99]

Beware of shimming it too tight, as it WILL suffer a fatigue fracture some time afterwards, and you may be going fast at the time. As ususl, someone above fails to understand the danger, despite the fact that there have been far too many ball joint failures on this forum recently. (One failure is one too many, in view of the risk to the driver and others.) The joint MUST be free moving with fingers, but without play, when correctly shimmed. They also last very much longer that way, about 60,000 miles, as if they are too tight the lubricant gets squeezed out from between the surfaces.

As Ethel says, the lower joint does have a spring, which stops it rattling, as it sometimes becomes unloaded vertically, unlike the top joint, which is always under load. It is easiest to set up the shimming without the spring, and put it in last, because it is hard to feel for play with it in.

[minx]

Does anyone have this ball joint video I can view please? when I click the link I just get told its private

[Fast Ivan]

quite old that so no idea if its still available

the manual describes it quite well though, apart from the lapping bit, do you have any manuals?

 

my advice would be to start with top quality parts though; I have some decent quality ones than I'm going to be fitting soon and some not so good and the not so good ones aren't hardened, so they are going to wear by the time you get to the bottom of the road, so I wont be using them.

 

Also I would echo tigers advice above; the manual states between no nip and .003" end float, so not tight

[minx]

Thank you, got some from Wood and Pickett so will see how I get on