28 replies to this topic

[WiredbyWilson]

As above,

I need to compensate for my VR sensor being around 3 degrees out, i.e. it is 93 debgrees before TDC as opposed to the 90 degrees it needs to be.

I can't get any more adjustment on the bracket so can those in th eknow point me in the right direction, and also how to check it is 90 degrees before TDC properly rather than just having my best guess by looking, as it isn't easy to see it!!

Many thanks chaps!!

Wilson

[mini-geek]

go to tools on the top left then global controller options

[miniJJ]

I ran it on the EDIS, which is fixed 10 degree advance. Use a timing light and see what advance the engine is actually running on. EG, using a timing light mine was at 8 degrees, so I knew my vr sensor had to be 2 degrees out.

After you know by how much it needs offsetting it's easy to offset it in the software.

[WiredbyWilson]

Cheers for that - guessing i have to have the MJ connected to my laptop to actually do it.

Also im guessing it is -3 in the "trigger offset" box?

Sorry, been on autosportlabs for an hour and not found anything that makes any sense!

[mini-geek]

I ran it on the EDIS, which is fixed 10 degree advance. Use a timing light and see what advance the engine is actually running on. EG, using a timing light mine was at 8 degrees, so I knew my vr sensor had to be 2 degrees out.

After you know by how much it needs offsetting it's easy to offset it in the software.

you might want to check that, I'm sure the standard edis default is 8 degree,



I'm not sure what way it needs adjusting but yes it needs to be connected!

[WiredbyWilson]

I ran it on the EDIS, which is fixed 10 degree advance. Use a timing light and see what advance the engine is actually running on. EG, using a timing light mine was at 8 degrees, so I knew my vr sensor had to be 2 degrees out.

After you know by how much it needs offsetting it's easy to offset it in the software.

Where did you get the reading of 8 degrees when you did yours? From the MJ Configurator of the timing light? Looks like i will need to borrow a timing light then!

I'm sure EDIS gives a static 10 degrees advance - that is what is all over the Autosportlabs forum.

[Ouster]

Unplug the megajolt so it's running on limp-home mode, timing should be a rock steady 10 degrees BTDC. You really need to check that this is the case with a timing light before messing with the megajolt. The software itself allows you to adjust +/- 5 degrees by typing the desired number into the trigger offset box.

Good luck, megajolt is lurrrrrrrrvly

[mini-geek]

ok I had it in my head it was 8 but I wasn't 100% sure.

[WiredbyWilson]

Cheers Ouster.

But not sure I was clear, do I have to check the 10 degrees "limp home" by eye using the timing light, as the pointers on the mini casing start at 12 degrees don't they??

Sorry for the noob question, but don't want to trash my not very old engine!!!

[Pooky]

You'll be able to check 10 degs fine. If you're using the toothed bit on the timing cover the big tooth at the top indicates 0 degs, the next 'valley' indicates 2, the next point = 4 the next valley =6 etc etc

[WiredbyWilson]

Cheers Pooky - you know the language to talk to me in!!

So I need to look for the 5th valley, and if not i can work out what setting to put in the MJ controller.

Next question , if I say get 8 degrees - I put +2 in and say i get 12 degrees - I put -2 in?

[Ouster]

I...think so. What I did was to make a map which was 10 degrees advance everywhere, then adjusted the trigger offset whilst checking with a timing light with the megajolt plugged in to get it running on exactly 10 degrees offset to make sure everything was "zeroed" correctly before messing with the real map. Of course, it must be noted that this does not change the advance when using limp home mode! But as long as it is to within a few degrees of 10 you should be fine - hopefully you won't be running on limp home for much at all.

Edited by Ouster, 15 June 2010 - 09:10 PM.

[WiredbyWilson]

Ok so tonight i managed to adjust the sensor and get it in the right place, seems the lip of the timing cover was stopping the bracket sliding into the right place.

Anyhoo - run the car up on MJ again and seemd fine, decided to see how it reacted to different loads of the right foot variety.

gentle increase in revs = fine.

boot-full of gas = bogs down and stalls

Would I be right in assuming the load vs revs advance is too far retarded?? help please as i have about 15 maps and want to narrow it down rather than driving around after work winding the neighbours up

Wilson

[mini-geek]

I would now take it to someone who knows MJ with a rolling road and get it set up properly.

[WiredbyWilson]

I would now take it to someone who knows MJ with a rolling road and get it set up properly.

I plan to do just that, when I fit my big valve head, rather than have to pay for 2 mapping sessions

Even if I wanted to do that, unfortunately i cannot drive the car there in current state and am simply asking for advice from fellow users to make the car driveable.

Any advice on maps for a 1330, ported head, Morspeed Ph3 cam and weber 40? I don't think the Aldon Yellow is cutting the mustard!

Edited by Wilson1330, 16 June 2010 - 09:54 PM.