28 replies to this topic

[GW]

998 City Auto
1988

Ok, Iv'e got a 998 auto, it over heated a little while back so I've since replaced the whole cooling system other than the matrix and heater hoses - which have all been flushed through.

its still running hot on hills and longer drives on dual carriageway. I keep to 60mph on D/C to avoid too much strain. Its worse with higher ambient temp as well.

My guess is as the oil works a lot harder in the auto, it gets hotter and more strain is put on the water cooling system.

Has any one fitted an oil cooler to their auto, or know if there are any issues with the higher pressure in the auto when fitting a cooler. Or has any one else found a way around similar issues in the auto?

Alternatively, an electric fan on the wingside could help, but could that just be masking a problem elsewhere? and pushing heat back towards the bay?

Thanks.

GW

[MRA]

As it came out of the factory with an AP2b box fitted, and it didn't overheat then, why are you looking to modify it ? ....... this is a fuel or ignition issue and must be looked at before adding modifications that will not really help and simply drain your pocket

[GW]

as said, I don't really want to mask the problem....I ordered points/condensor from you a little while back and have these ready to fit, at which point I'll try and time it up best I can. Whats the easiest way to set the timing without a light or much knowledge of engine timing?

[MRA]

THe first thing is to ensure that the points have the correct gap, an incorrect gap will give you advanced or retarder ignition...... I feel that your engine has retarded ignition hence the overheating, has it been getting steadily worse ?

[manxmini]

What oil are you using in your auto and how are you checking it? Also when was the last oil change?

I say this because if you have the wrong viscosity oil or are overfilling then you may have created problems.

Have you posted this problem on the auto register? They may be your best source of advice with regards to installing extra cooling components. I would hesitate to add another fan just yet.. As you stated it's obviously better to correct the problem over masking it! I know the standard fan has little effect at above around 30mph.

[Nelson92]

my auto overheats sometimes, i have a leccy fan in the wing that i've put a on/off switch on.
so i'd say fit one to get rid of the heat, BUT at the same time do all the tuning and checking to find the problem.
but as an owner i'd say the autos do run quite hot sometimes.
i also upgraded my radiator to a better one, but i'm not sure if an oil cooler is really what you need.
check you're getting enough air to the filter aswell, have you changed the filter box for a different style?

[edit: 1275 autos came with a wing mounted fan, i didn't add it on]

Edited by Nelson92, 25 June 2010 - 05:22 PM.

[GW]

everything is standard down o the air box etc.

oil is 20/50 and was changed about 1500 miles ago and is checked every week or two.

I flushed the coolant thouroughly last night which helped a little today, but still a bit warm.

martin,

hard to say if its getting steadily worse due t the ambient temp getting steadily higher the last week!

I found 5 mins to gap the points today. there was no gap, it is now set at .40 as per haynes. would closed gap give advanced or retarded timing?

done a few miles since setting them but not much better. pulled the plugs and looks like its a bit on the lean side so will tune up the carb and play with timing tomorrow.

may sound daft, but what does pinking sound like?

cheers

gw

[Nelson92]

on my golf it sounds/feels like a gentle misfire. its not a very distict thing.
i don't think octane will help though. the other thing to consider then, is everything moving freely?
check things like the fan and the alternator and moving okay, lube everything and then have a drive.
when i changed my oil a few years ago i used a wynns engine flush and the stuff that came out the block was amazing.
it ran alot better afterwards though without a gearbox full of chunks. so if you can/want chuck a can in,
it says to just run the engine but i actualy drove mine for 5 miles quite hard,
let it cool off and do a normal oil drain.
with tuning, richen it up a bit as i've recently found on mine that running slightly lean made it a little bit hotter.
also look over the brakes, is the engine straining trying to push binding brakes or anything.
good luck and let us know.

[GW]

I wasn't too sure on using a flushing product on the auto really.not too keen on additives with the in sump design anyway, and very wary of them with the fragility of the auto.

Brakes were binding previously but thats been sorted now. Will report back once ive set the carb up!

[Nelson92]

I wasn't too sure on using a flushing product on the auto really.not too keen on additives with the in sump design anyway, and very wary of them with the fragility of the auto.

Brakes were binding previously but thats been sorted now. Will report back once ive set the carb up!

hi

i'm a nutter for additives. you name it i've ran it in the mini.
the best thing i chucked through yet was a bottle of slick that someone gave me for free.
you could hear the difference the minute it went in. and smoother gear changes from the auto.
i also use loads of redex to keep the fuel system clean, and flushes on the rad and oil system.
if you've never used one i recommend it, it could be the cause of the problem.
or you could take the gearbox off and clean it out yourself?
good luck with the carb.

[MRA]

I wasn't too sure on using a flushing product on the auto really.not too keen on additives with the in sump design anyway, and very wary of them with the fragility of the auto.

Brakes were binding previously but thats been sorted now. Will report back once ive set the carb up!

hi

i'm a nutter for additives. you name it i've ran it in the mini.
the best thing i chucked through yet was a bottle of slick that someone gave me for free.
you could hear the difference the minute it went in. and smoother gear changes from the auto.
i also use loads of redex to keep the fuel system clean, and flushes on the rad and oil system.
if you've never used one i recommend it, it could be the cause of the problem.
or you could take the gearbox off and clean it out yourself?
good luck with the carb.

Have you tried these additives on an automatic ???

[MRA]

everything is standard down o the air box etc.

oil is 20/50 and was changed about 1500 miles ago and is checked every week or two.

I flushed the coolant thouroughly last night which helped a little today, but still a bit warm.

martin,

hard to say if its getting steadily worse due t the ambient temp getting steadily higher the last week!

I found 5 mins to gap the points today. there was no gap, it is now set at .40 as per haynes. would closed gap give advanced or retarded timing?

done a few miles since setting them but not much better. pulled the plugs and looks like its a bit on the lean side so will tune up the carb and play with timing tomorrow.

may sound daft, but what does pinking sound like?

cheers

gw

A smaller gap would retard the ignition.

[GW]

right, i richened the carb up, but could not find the piston lifting pin in the base that haynes says to use to check...

set about the timing for it but after reading I didnt fancy the old school method so I bought a timing light and did it to 8deg BTDC as per the blue book, it was waaaaayyyy out! as in you couldn't even see the pulley mark when it was strobing. thats all set now and goes so much better, but didn't get time to do a proper drive tonight. think i'll hit up brighton in the morning and see how it goes!

thanks for all your help everyone.

[Nelson92]

right, i richened the carb up, but could not find the piston lifting pin in the base that haynes says to use to check...

set about the timing for it but after reading I didnt fancy the old school method so I bought a timing light and did it to 8deg BTDC as per the blue book, it was waaaaayyyy out! as in you couldn't even see the pulley mark when it was strobing. thats all set now and goes so much better, but didn't get time to do a proper drive tonight. think i'll hit up brighton in the morning and see how it goes!

thanks for all your help everyone.

glad its a bit better.
mra - my mini is a 1275 auto. and i took advice from a few garages before flushing the first time. (changes every 6 months - flush every 3rd change)
but the slick does seem to quieten the gearbox down and smoothout the changes.
if you want to know any details just drop me a pm

[bmcecosse]

If still getting hot - change the thermostat for a nice new 74 degree one for summer -and I would pop out the rad - and reverse flush it with a hose! The other helpful thing is to fit the smaller (earlier cars) water pump pulley. This definitely helped my 1340 in hot weather!