10 replies to this topic

[dob]

hi,i am stripping the rear brake assembly to renew or repair all the working parts as the car has stood for quite a while,the hydraulic pipe union net is seized in and the corners of the nut are rounded,is it ok to remove the pipe further up where it connects into the hose and if so how do i stop the brake fluid from draining out? by the way my car is a 93 mini cooper thanks..dob

[oldman]

Hi dob,
If you can get to the rubber hose on the subframe you can clamp
them off with a proper tool (or if careful mole grips with loads of protection
to the pipe) You will then need to have the metal pipes remade, if you have a
proper type (read old) of high street motor factors or local garage they will
make the pipe for you, or you can get goodrich hoses from minispares etc,
be careful if you have them made that they have the correct ends on.
Cheers

John

[dob]

Hi dob,
If you can get to the rubber hose on the subframe you can clamp
them off with a proper tool (or if careful mole grips with loads of protection
to the pipe) You will then need to have the metal pipes remade, if you have a
proper type (read old) of high street motor factors or local garage they will
make the pipe for you, or you can get goodrich hoses from minispares etc,
be careful if you have them made that they have the correct ends on.
Cheers

John

hello john,what do you mean by clamping them off? is it actually gripping the hose with grips to stop the flow of fluid?can you not buy new pipes? if i can get the back plate off i might be able to turn the nut that is seized,and 1 more question mate,how do you remove the plate with the 4 studs on that the brake drum fastens onto and has a bearing in the middle?thanks mate dob

[oldman]

Hi dob
Yes the idea of clamping the hoses is to stop the flow of brake fluid,
you don't want to empty the master cylinder as this could lead to problems with old seals.
You can buy new hoses if needed.
The plate with the 4 studs on and holds the brake drum on is the rear hub.
If you very carefully pry off the centre dome, the bit that sticks out of the brake drum,
don't damage the hidden bit as it is a grease seal, you will find a split pin remove this and undo
the nut now if you are lucky the hub will pull off (last 3 I have done have!)
If not you will need a puller http://www.toolstati...60/sd180/p79243
to remove it.
You will find that the brake pipe nut will shear the pipe when you come to undo it,
as the nut head has rounded off the section of pipe will have to be replaced, they are easy to make,
IF you have the tools. Someone local to you might be able to help/local club.
There are three nuts and bolts that then hold the back plate on its easier to strip the brakes
to get at these remember to disconnect the handbrake cable.
Todays top tip, do one side at a time then you always have a point of reference for the rebuild!
Cheers

John

[dob]

Hi dob
Yes the idea of clamping the hoses is to stop the flow of brake fluid,
you don't want to empty the master cylinder as this could lead to problems with old seals.
You can buy new hoses if needed.
The plate with the 4 studs on and holds the brake drum on is the rear hub.
If you very carefully pry off the centre dome, the bit that sticks out of the brake drum,
don't damage the hidden bit as it is a grease seal, you will find a split pin remove this and undo
the nut now if you are lucky the hub will pull off (last 3 I have done have!)
If not you will need a puller http://www.toolstati...60/sd180/p79243
to remove it.
You will find that the brake pipe nut will shear the pipe when you come to undo it,
as the nut head has rounded off the section of pipe will have to be replaced, they are easy to make,
IF you have the tools. Someone local to you might be able to help/local club.
There are three nuts and bolts that then hold the back plate on its easier to strip the brakes
to get at these remember to disconnect the handbrake cable.
Todays top tip, do one side at a time then you always have a point of reference for the rebuild!
Cheers

John

ok mate,can i clamp the hose at the end where it meets the pipe? and do i disconnect the handbrake cable from behind the backplate? thanks again john much appreciated..dob

[oldman]

Hi.
The handbrake cable attaches to the brakes via
a removable arm on the brake shoes, this arm comes through
the back plate it is held on by a clevis pin the bottom of the pin
is drilled and a small split pin fitted to stop it coming out.
Described like this because its covered in horse droppings
and hard to spot the split pin sometimes.
Cheers

John

[dob]

Hi.
The handbrake cable attaches to the brakes via
a removable arm on the brake shoes, this arm comes through
the back plate it is held on by a clevis pin the bottom of the pin
is drilled and a small split pin fitted to stop it coming out.
Described like this because its covered in horse droppings
and hard to spot the split pin sometimes.
Cheers

John

that will be the tiny splitpin i tried to remove this morning and snapped!!if i get the pin out and remove the clevis pin that will be the handbrake disconnected?and can i clamp the hose in the place i said earlier?if i clamp the hose and damage it what's the proceedure for replacing it i.e. how will replace and stop the fluid coming out?thanks john ..dob

[oldman]

If you put plenty of cardboard around the hose
that should protect it. The proper tool is available from Halfords, cheap.
If you remove the split pin then yes the handbrake is disconnected.
If you have to replace the rear hose I have just caught any spilt fluid,
and used fresh fluid for topping up, in theory letting the master cylinder
run dry can cause problems with the old seals when refilled.
I have been told that if you take the master cylinder cap off
and put some plastic over the opening secured with rubber bands,
when the fulid leaks it causes a vacuum and the level will not drop.
As said I have NOT tryed this so cannot stand by it!
As we are talking about brakes obviously it is saftey critical component.
If in doubt get expert help.
John

[dob]

If you put plenty of cardboard around the hose
that should protect it. The proper tool is available from Halfords, cheap.
If you remove the split pin then yes the handbrake is disconnected.
If you have to replace the rear hose I have just caught any spilt fluid,
and used fresh fluid for topping up, in theory letting the master cylinder
run dry can cause problems with the old seals when refilled.
I have been told that if you take the master cylinder cap off
and put some plastic over the opening secured with rubber bands,
when the fulid leaks it causes a vacuum and the level will not drop.
As said I have NOT tryed this so cannot stand by it!
As we are talking about brakes obviously it is saftey critical component.
If in doubt get expert help.
John

just looked on halfords wesite and they have a laser hose clamp and a laser brake clamp,which one suits the job i'm doing?

[Ethel]

The plaggy under the filler cap trick helps, but isn't really effective enough on its own. clamp the hose in the middle. If you remove the "E" clip retainer from the back of the wheel cylinder you may be able to pull it out of the back plate so you can hold the pipe union with mole grips and turn the cylinder instead. Sounds like you'll need to replace the pipe anyway. You can get a nice braided hose that replaces the pipe 'n rubber hose in one with a nice banjo fitting that should be much easier to get undone.

[dob]

The plaggy under the filler cap trick helps, but isn't really effective enough on its own. clamp the hose in the middle. If you remove the "E" clip retainer from the back of the wheel cylinder you may be able to pull it out of the back plate so you can hold the pipe union with mole grips and turn the cylinder instead. Sounds like you'll need to replace the pipe anyway. You can get a nice braided hose that replaces the pipe 'n rubber hose in one with a nice banjo fitting that should be much easier to get undone.

thanks for the advice...great stuff..cheers dob