23 replies to this topic

[samg.t]

hi i am looking for a first car and was thinking about rover mini mpi however eventually i would want to tune it a bit just wondered what can be done to a mpi and what sort of improvements would you get eg 0-60 time

[munkey26]

Get a tow from a Porsche if you want it to go faster!

The MPI isn't a good basis for tuning. If you want to tune up a Mini, get a carb.

[RayBoogs]

Get a tow from a Porsche if you want it to go faster!

The MPI isn't a good basis for tuning. If you want to tune up a Mini, get a carb.

not much help but, yeah the mpi is limited with tuning the main things you can do are stage 1 and stage 3 kits and camshafts, after that there's not much else unless you go down the pricey forced induction or 16v route!

hope this helps

Jack

[munkey26]

I wouldn't bother with any tuning.

Anything stage 2 and above cause poblems with fuelling as the ECU can't cope.

As Ray said, 16v with stan alone management is the best bet.

[Spannerhead]

I wouldn't bother with any tuning.

Anything stage 2 and above cause poblems with fuelling as the ECU can't cope.

As Ray said, 16v with stan alone management is the best bet.

Sorry, I don't agree with that at all. I have a Stage 3 on my MPi, with new camshaft and diff drive taken back to 3.14. It's now a COMPLETELY different car to drive, it's gone from 60 bhp to 82 bhp and with the changed final drive it now pulls really well. The fueling is spot on as it's been checked on the dyno.

MPi's aren't ideal for tuning, but if your happy with 80 bhp then you get a car that's really nice to drive. My mate has a carb mini putting out about the same bhp but it's much harder work to drive, the power is higher up the rev range and it's nowhere near as smooth as my MPi.

[mpihornet]

I wouldn't bother with any tuning.

Anything stage 2 and above cause poblems with fuelling as the ECU can't cope.

As Ray said, 16v with stan alone management is the best bet.

Sorry, I don't agree with that at all. I have a Stage 3 on my MPi, with new camshaft and diff drive taken back to 3.14. It's now a COMPLETELY different car to drive, it's gone from 60 bhp to 82 bhp and with the changed final drive it now pulls really well. The fueling is spot on as it's been checked on the dyno.

MPi's aren't ideal for tuning, but if your happy with 80 bhp then you get a car that's really nice to drive. My mate has a carb mini putting out about the same bhp but it's much harder work to drive, the power is higher up the rev range and it's nowhere near as smooth as my MPi.

I'd have to agree that the mpi is more limited in its out and out range, but smoother throughout that range. My final drive is 10 inch wheels and it pulls like a train through all 4 gears. I wish i had put it in sooner!

THere isnt too much you can do, if you want to get silly you could put all sorts of mods on it, but nothing would compare to a 16v bespoke injection system. me, i like to NOT work on my car so im sticking with the un moded mpi , a k and n filter, and 10 inch wheels

[samg.t]

thanks alot was just wondering what sort of 0-60 times you could expect was thinking of going up to stage 2 as had heard stage 3 had problems so any stage 2 rough 0-60s would be great also i had been told rover minis are smaller than normal inside so would i fit in comfortably im 6 ft 1 thanks alot

[Spannerhead]

I don't think anybody will give you a 0-60 time, it's not something easy recorded. Anyway, if you want to go fast in a straight line, don't get a Mini. If you want to go fast around corners and have fun doing it, then the Mini is great. I don't think there is a Stage 2 for the MPi, you eaither go for a basic exhaust manifold, exhaust and air filter swap which will do very little, just a few horse power more, or you go for a Stage 3 (and change the cam if you can too), then your looking at 80-85 bhp (60 as standard).

No reason a well built Stage 3 won't be just as reliable as the original. In fact it will probably be more reliable if it's had an engine rebuild and a gearbox rebuild.

I've over 6'1" and fit in the Rover Mini fine, I used an lowering block on the steering column and it's even better.

[samg.t]

ok thanks alot was just after a rough 0-60 time also does anyone do ecu remaps or are they hard to do?

[RayBoogs]

the standard rover ecu cant be re-mapped its a closed loop, so it will set its self up to an extent.

[grumpy2]

the standard rover ecu cant be re-mapped its a closed loop, so it will set its self up to an extent.

forgive my ignorance but what's all this stage 3 about. I've an Mpi with a non standard no cat exhaust and K&N filter so I'm guessing this is something like stage 1 but what's needed for stage 3 and what does it cost.

G

[RayBoogs]

the standard rover ecu cant be re-mapped its a closed loop, so it will set its self up to an extent.

forgive my ignorance but what's all this stage 3 about. I've an Mpi with a non standard no cat exhaust and K&N filter so I'm guessing this is something like stage 1 but what's needed for stage 3 and what does it cost.

G

Stage 1 is usually new filter or induction kit, new spark plugs and new exhaust manifold (LCB) and back box. in theory this helps the car "breathe better" improving performance.
http://www.minisport...fo_T-KTK12.html

Stage 3 kit includes all that is in a stage one but also has a stage 3 big valve gas flowed cylinder head, and sometimes with 1.5 roller rockers or you can fit a new warmer camshaft as well to get the most from the cylinder head.
http://www.theminifo...x...40&t=162700

a guy on here called spannerhead has just had a slightly uprated stage 3 on his mpi and now has around 85bhp i think, as is says above.

hope this helps

Jack

[mykweb]

I also have to agree that the MPI is a good car.

I have had my fair share of issues with the MPi over the past few years, however when its setup well its a cracking nippy little drive.

for every day reliability and not having to worrie about cold and damp morning starts the MPi is the one.

I have mpi stage 3 car, standard manifold and rc40 backbox. also uprated throtle body and 1.5.1 rockers

One downside i have with the Mpi is, its very expensive to tune or mod. Don't expect to get a stage 3 car on a shoe string budget. However if you are willing to put in the hours and learn the basics you can do the mods yourself.

I have just rebuilt my engine and saved £25 hour labour to get a mechanic to do it. Fair enough it would have only taken him a few hours compaired to my 2 weeks, but its the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

As for ECU's its been said before. The standard ecu can't eb mapped, chipped or fooled into breaking the 100 BHP barrier. However you can buy aftermarket ECU's to improve the car. Expect to shell out around £450+ on hardware and then £100+ for tuning and rolling road sessions. I have heard a standard MPi engine with air filter, and stainless exhaust running on a modified ECU can easily make 65-75 BHP.

As standard the mini came out the factory with 63BHP. however over time most cars go down to high 50's low 60's

As for 0-60 time. It varies from car to car. Simple things to help are a lower final drive (but will affect motorway cruising) and stripping out unwanted weight. I have beaten a few bikes and porches off the line in my little car

Enjoy and good luck

Mike

[Spannerhead]

Yup, Stage 3 here with new head, rockers, heated treated crank, new warm cam, fuel pressure regulator, new stainless exhaust, 3.14 final drive, recon box with cross pinned diff, airfilter, and all the new usual engine parts that come with a rebuild, rolling road session to set it all up, now 81bhp ( could be more if I had it rebored) and now a fantastic drive. Cost nearly £3k though. The engine had done 60k so it needed to be rebuilt, especially the gearbox, to keep it reliable with the extra power.

Sat writing this in a hotel in Kyoto, really surprised at how many Minis I've seen hear in Japan in just a couple of days.

[welshdan]

mine is very nice to drive. its not a quick car by any means, but it goes well for a mini. had been 100% reliable so far

spec is

close ratio gearset.
hardened diff pin.
3.2:1 final drive.
centre oil pickup
extened magnetic sump plug
ap fast road clutch plate

engine has been overbored to 1360
hypertech pistons + hastings rings
standard crank.
new bearings throughout
crank cente strap
piper vernier duplex gears
sw5i cam and followers
new oil/water pumps

john cooper cylinder head. ported/polished.
bronze guides.
double sprung
1,5 roller rockers
compression ratio of aprox 11:1

ported inlet manifold
modified dellorto 52mm throttle body
k and n induction
lcb maniflow exhaust manifold
decat pipe
stainless 1.75 inch rc40 backbox

i think thats it



when the head comes off again i will be fitting some rimflow inlet valves



remember, you get the nicer parts on the later cars. sportspack, leather seats etc

my car goes really well, i hope to fit the fuel pressure regulator soon and get it rolling roaded. would be happy with 70-80 bhp at the flywheel. it pulls really well in all gears

this setup has cost me around £1000, all work apart from the machining was done at home though.