
Had to reverse Bumpstart this morning
#1
Posted 23 November 2005 - 02:11 PM
The engine turned over, Wasnt slugish or anything. But it just wouldnt fire.
Then the engine would catch on as I let go of the key.
In the end I just stuck the car in reverse, Let off the hand brake, and rolled the car backwards down my driveway. Jumped in, Dumped the clutch and she fired up.
Pulled the car back onto the drive and went in the house for 15 mins while the car warmed up.
Any ideas?
<|ben|>
#2
Posted 23 November 2005 - 02:15 PM
#3
Posted 23 November 2005 - 02:26 PM
#4
Posted 23 November 2005 - 02:28 PM
Mine starts everymorning first turn.
Wil
#5
Posted 23 November 2005 - 05:48 PM
#6
Posted 23 November 2005 - 06:31 PM
#7
Posted 23 November 2005 - 09:11 PM
That's the whole point, an electronic module needs no maintenance.
And I haven't touched my megasquirt since I fitted it 12,000 miles ago.
Point's are pants.
Wil
#8
Posted 23 November 2005 - 09:13 PM
Saying that its not done that in ages.
#9
Posted 23 November 2005 - 09:50 PM
This means that the starter motor draws more current. This in turn drops the terminal voltage of the battery and as there is a sihncle positive wire from the battery to the front of the car, the voltage is reduced even further
This means that the supply to the coil is lower and therefore the spark is not so good. The voltage could even be so low that you get no spark at all
When you release the starter, the voltage is restored, you get a bigger spark and if you are lucky, the engine starts.
Ballast resistors and coils are an attempt to overcome this problem. The coil is actually designed to work at about 6v and under normall running, the ballast resistor drops the voltage to the coil. When you crank the engine, the ballast resistor is shorted out and you get closer to the 6v that the coil is designed to run on
Various designs of electronic ignitions use other methods that mean a better spark is obtained under cranking conditions and that is one of their benefits
The other main benefitis that the either do not rely on points at all, or only pass a small current through the points meaning that they do not wear an require continual adjustment. For breakerless ignitions, you should never need to adjust the ignition timing.
By far the best ignition systems are 'coil on plug' modules, which eliminate all HT wiring by effectively building the coil into the plug cap.
The second best solution is distributor less ignition systems where the coil has tow outputs and you fire 2 cylinders at the same time. As the one is just finishing its exhaust stroke it does not fire and you just fire the correct cyclinder. Getting rid of the distributor removes many points where the spark is weakened.
As for advice
1) Reverse into your drive. It is much easier and better to bump start a car going forwards because you can use a higher gear
2) Ensure that all the components in the ignition system are clean - dirt attract moisture and the damp provides a low resistance path for the ignition voltage.
3) Ensure that the plug gaps are correct
4) Ensure that the points are in good condition and correctly adjusted (timing and dwell)
5Keep the car in a garage
7) By a car that was not designed in the 1950's and therefore has a modern ignition system

#10
Posted 24 November 2005 - 06:42 PM
If you have a seperate ignition and door key you could always take it off and lock the doors but leave the engine running!
#11
Posted 24 November 2005 - 06:58 PM
think thats why he gave me a fixed penalty :nugget:
#12
Posted 25 November 2005 - 10:25 AM
I like that idea... I have a spare set of keys so could lock the car and leave it ticking over on the drive. Can watch the drive from the living room so if anyone shows any undue interest I can be out there sharpish...I leave my car on the drive to warm up while i have my breakfast!
If you have a seperate ignition and door key you could always take it off and lock the doors but leave the engine running!
although a bit concerned about leaving it locked and engine running, some crazy parnoia about it slipping into gear, handbrake slipping off and then it driving itself into the garage or the road.. (mind you whats the odds of it slipping into reverse..?? pretty unlikely!)
#13
Posted 25 November 2005 - 10:30 AM
Lol, yeah pretty remote really! :grin:I like that idea... I have a spare set of keys so could lock the car and leave it ticking over on the drive. Can watch the drive from the living room so if anyone shows any undue interest I can be out there sharpish...
although a bit concerned about leaving it locked and engine running, some crazy parnoia about it slipping into gear, handbrake slipping off and then it driving itself into the garage or the road.. (mind you whats the odds of it slipping into reverse..?? pretty unlikely!)
I always do that with my Polo, go out about 15 mins before I leave, start it up, put the heaters on full, lock the door with the spare key, go in eat breakfast/make snap whatever (keeping an eye on the car), come back out and its just getting warm in there, the screens are clear and its much nicer to drive becasue the engine is getting warm, the gearbox oil is thinner, etc etc (and you can use the engine more as its warm).
#14
Posted 25 November 2005 - 10:37 AM
Im still trying to get to grips with all the knobs and buttons..!! doesnt seem to be much heat coming out..Lol, yeah pretty remote really! :grin:I like that idea... I have a spare set of keys so could lock the car and leave it ticking over on the drive. Can watch the drive from the living room so if anyone shows any undue interest I can be out there sharpish...
although a bit concerned about leaving it locked and engine running, some crazy parnoia about it slipping into gear, handbrake slipping off and then it driving itself into the garage or the road.. (mind you whats the odds of it slipping into reverse..?? pretty unlikely!)
I always do that with my Polo, go out about 15 mins before I leave, start it up, put the heaters on full, lock the door with the spare key, go in eat breakfast/make snap whatever (keeping an eye on the car), come back out and its just getting warm in there, the screens are clear and its much nicer to drive becasue the engine is getting warm, the gearbox oil is thinner, etc etc (and you can use the engine more as its warm).
theres a switch that says Screen Car Off
There a switch says On/Off (which I think its just the blower on/off)
and then theres a pull out thingy which I think may be the heater
So to turn on heat I pull out the thingy, select Screen from the other set - blower on/off??
am I slowly starting to understand?? My boyfriend was frozen this morning as I opened the window a bit to stay awake and he was in his office clobber freezing his ass off. Have to get the window fixed because it doesnt wind up properly.. (lovely man at the garage will fix it for free when I get the bumper replaced)
#15
Posted 25 November 2005 - 10:40 AM
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