8 replies to this topic

[bunch1980]

During summer I plan to atleast treat all box sections with waxyl/silka/dinitrol one of those lol and maybe do underside of car to if i can.

Now where i think i may have rust occuring is inside the triangular sill sections, and above this on rear panels just below door bins where it connects to sill.
First off i want to add some sort of rust comverter which one i dont know im undecided theres so many!
With the cavity wax they aerosol cans come with a long tube/wand to get it in, but rust converter comes in tins etc, my only idea is to use a large syringe and or pipe to get in sills
and drill some holes? but where do I drill? Which rust converter would be best for squirting in with a syringe?

www.rust.co.uk has kits of grommits and 10mm drill bit which are cheap but where best to drill especially around the sill, a-panel and under rear bins etc??

Want to halt any rust for as long as possible if its inside these sections.

[lrostoke]

If you've got proper sills with the vents, you could go in through the vents, no need drill any holes.

[bunch1980]

If you've got proper sills with the vents, you could go in through the vents, no need drill any holes.

Thanks I do have the 6 or so square vents on under side so guess i do, no need to drill any holes anywhere then to treat other box sections?

[datsun100a]

use dinitrol, it has rust killing additives unlike waxoyl so you won't need to use a rust convertor.

[bunch1980]

use dinitrol, it has rust killing additives unlike waxoyl so you won't need to use a rust convertor.

Thanks to prolong it even further a rust converter would be even better still though i imagine. I see also on www.rust.co.uk
they say dinitrol have diagrams of where to add there products not sure if it shows where to drill holes or not to, emailed them to ask for
one for mini but no reply i think if you buy from them they send it. Anyone else have the dinitrol diagram for mini?

[Petes.one]

I am in the process of firing a rust inhibitor into all those hard to get at spots on the Mini I'm restoring. Eg - the sills, the cavity behind the A panels, the joins between the door skins and the frames, and the cavities either side behind the back wheel wheels. I use a soft 1" long bristled paint brush, soak it well in the inhibitor, hold it to the appropriate place, then blast through the soaked brush with the air gun from my compressor. A face shield is a good idea! The air gun fires the liquid into all the small crevices and spreads it everywhere. This method probably uses up more inhibitor than some, but I can promise you it blasts the brew into all those difficult to reach places, which is the main point of the exercise.

Edited by Petes.one, 07 July 2010 - 11:54 AM.

[Ethel]

Might not be very effective if there's more than surface rust. Blow some heat in to it to evaporate any moisture. You might get best access through the front wheel arch, there's a fair chance it would benefit from some new steel anyway.

[Petes.one]

I should have added that I flushed out as much dirt and loose dust as possible with a high pressure hose beforehand, then used a hot air gun to carefully drive all the moisture from the seams, etc. Once completely dry I used the compressor air hose to blast out all loose rubbish that was left. Good eye protection is a must for this sort of job as it's amazing just how much grit and rubbish comes out of some of those cavities.

[bunch1980]

Thanks for ideas, guys cant really do air thing as dont have a compressor.

Dont know how bad it is inside really with out cutting it open lol, so think I will inject rust convertor best i can through drain holes and drill some in bottom in door bins to
and anywhere else i think might be needed. Then add waxoyl or dinitrol.

Apart from sherlocks thread on box sections to waxoyl is there any others on where to add waxoyl and where to drill a hole is best for certain box sections?