9 replies to this topic

[colinu]

Folks,

Engine will be coming out/apart soon to attend to a few "issues", and while it's in pieces I thought now would be the time to fit a cross-pin diff. Looks like a relatively simple job, but are there any hints/tips you can give me... and more importantly apart from the diff assembly is there anything else I'll need to buy (shims etc)?
The diff I intend to fit is the Minispares "Molybdenum cross-pin diff" www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35941.

Cheers,
Colin.

[Guess-Works.com]

Assuming you're not changing the final drive then just remove the diff from the back of the gearbox, strip the unit down as you'll need the output shafts and then build the x-pin... Check the shimming when you put it back together, sometimes using the old shims is enough but you may need the odd thin one more as the thrust bearings may have worn a little.

[colinu]

Guess-Works,

Thanks for the reply. FYI I'm keeping the current 3.44FD (on my 1380cc lump).
OK, reading your reply, looking back at the Minispares website, and thumbing through a few versions of the Haynes manual... I now have what could be a dumb question...
If I buy the complete cross-pin diff assembly mentioned above (i.e. complete unit of cage, pins, and planets) do I have to dismanlte that new assembly in order to fit my current differential gear/shaft into the cage - correct? And I also have to make sure that once I reassemble it it is all shimmed correctly. Which shims were you refering to... only the thrust washers on the diff shafts, or might the (new) ones on the planets need messed with?

And finally... the lump it's attached to (when fixed!) is a1380cc with stage4 head and HIF44. I guess it could be pushing out maybe 110bhp. Is a cross-pin a wise choice for that spec, or should I just go for replacing the current single pin with a new/harder pin and planets? I'm guessing if I'm in there it's probabaly no bad idea to go the whole hog and do the cross-pin /cage thing.


Cheers,
Colin.

[bmcecosse]

If you REALLY think you will have 110 bhp - you should be thinking seriously about a limited slip diff.

[colinu]

Yeah, I'm kind of being optimistic... more likely to be in the mid/high 90's.

[Guess-Works.com]

If you REALLY think you will have 110 bhp - you should be thinking seriously about a limited slip diff.

I think that's a little overkill... an LSD or ATB is more to do with use of vehicle rather than power or torque output, I know people who've run 200hp on an x-pin, with no adverse effects.

however, when heading into the low 100's there does come the point at which it should be a consideration to change the drop gears from helical to straight cut to reduce side load on the transfer case.

Back to the OP's remarks,

Yes if you buy a minispares evo' x-pin then you will need to dismantle it to put your output shafts into it, unlike the cheap sh(one)t which comes from minisport/minispeed which already have the output shaft installed because the machining of the unit is so terrible a 'home builder' would have difficulty putting the thing together. But a quality X-pin ( minispares, min-its, MRA-minis, or even me ) can be put together in about 10 minutes and you will appreciate the quality of the unit as everything fits.

[cooperrodeo]

Fitting a Minispares diff is easy. The only thing I would add to what has been said is that after you have tightened the diff housing and side covers up, slacken off the side covers and re-tighten them to make sure they are centralised about the output shafts.

[colinu]

Guess-Works,

Thanks for "completing the puzzle" for me. I'll be ordering one in the next few days... and seen as you've been so helpfull I'll order it from you (assuming you can ship to the USA). Please PM me with details, price, P&P etc.

Cheers,
Colin.

FYI... I aleady have s/c drops fitted.

[Kaj]

I've just bought a new Minisport x-pin diff and unfortunately when I fit the crownwheel and just nip the bolts up with a hand socket driver it locks up!!

My original thrust washer measures .035 thk and thing locks solid, never mind torquing it up.

Not impressed and I've had the send the thing back to them.

More delays, cost and hassle for my build.

Edited by Kaj, 09 July 2010 - 09:11 PM.

[Kaj]

I've just bought a Minisport x-pin diff for my manual pot joint gearbox. When I fitted the crownwheel and bolted it up by hand (using a handheld socket driver) it lock solid!

My original thrust washer 0.035 thk was used and this wasn't even torquing it up.

Not impressed and I've had to send the lot back to them.

More delays, cost and hassle for my build!