The throwout stop has no effect on the point at which the clutch 'bites' It is to stop damage to the crankshaft thrust bearings in the event of the overthrow becoming too great.
To set the stops, which are 15/16" AF, you undo both nuts so that they are well clear of the casing. With a pre-Verto set-up, you then set the arm stop bolt, which is higher up on the casing and is 7/16" AF, clearance to 0.020" with the arm pulled as far away from the housing as it will go (with the clutch spring removed is easiest). Then when that is set, you push the clutch pedal right to the floor and hold it there. Whilst the pedal is to the floor you do up the inner overthrow stop nut until it just touches the casing. Release the pedal and turn the nut in a further 1/2 a flat (not half a turn!). Hold the inner nut in place and lock it there with the outer nut.
With a Verto the bit about the arm stop is irrelevant as a Verto is self-adjusting.
If the cluth wears it will disengage sooner, not with the pedal nearer the floor.The overthrow stop should not need re-setting during the life of a clutch plate, unless the flywheel/clutch is touched or the release bearing changed. Always hold the inner nut with a 2nd spanner when tightening or loosening off those nuts or you risk snapping off the ball on the bottom of the arm.
One of the main problems with clutches is worn clevis pins and/or worn ball at the bottom of the clutch arm. On early ars the arms used to bend as well, but on later and on Verto-erquipped cars that's not an issue.
I hope this helps.
As above. Verto just required the throw out setting.
Eariler pre verto clutches needed the arm stop bolt adjusting aswell.
Thanks!
Will set it then, my clutch isn't fully 'disconnecting' from the flywheel atm, don' tthink it is the slave cylinder..( bled 10 times, no ai rin it orso, and it was overhauled so..) But probably will change that one too..
