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Red Oxide?


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#1 chadders15

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:06 PM

What Red Oxide is the best to use??
Or is Hammerite better
Or both?

#2 Mini Mad Drakeley

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:21 PM

i dont know at every1 else does but i myself am goin to take the precaution nd use both just in case

#3 bikecrazy100

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:37 PM

i dont know at every1 else does but i myself am goin to take the precaution nd use both just in case



Hi, hammerite do their own primer called rustbeater, some red oxide primers won't take hammerite on top as it will react and wrinkle, best of luck Tony. (bikecrazy100) also painter & decorator.

#4 Deathrow

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:38 PM

Your question relates to two different types of paint.

Red oxide is a primer, Hammerite (generally) is a top coat although they do make a primer specific to their brand as well I believe.

Moved to Bodywork, Paint and Detailing.

#5 chadders15

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:40 PM

Oh right OK

(Thanks for moving)

#6 mk3cortina

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:43 PM

im currently going through a tin of red oxide from wilkinsons, cost like £3.50 for a 500ml tin. a lot cheaper than B&Q who charge about triple that. beleive me, i checked.

#7 Mini Mad Drakeley

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 07:49 PM

im glad i aint bought hammerite yet then but i got told about a paint the army use that clings to any surface and as long as its in a place with no sunlight is guaranteed to protect from rust anywhere it put :) :dontgetit:

#8 Deathrow

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 08:09 PM

im glad i aint bought hammerite yet then but i got told about a paint the army use that clings to any surface and as long as its in a place with no sunlight is guaranteed to protect from rust anywhere it put :) :dontgetit:

Tell us more!

#9 miniman24

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 09:48 PM

im glad i aint bought hammerite yet then but i got told about a paint the army use that clings to any surface and as long as its in a place with no sunlight is guaranteed to protect from rust anywhere it put :D ^_^

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Sounds like POR 15 to me :( Never used it though, too expensive for a student :lol:

#10 mk3cortina

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 09:50 PM

join the army, then you could just take gallons of the stuff.

#11 K18ARY

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:39 AM

On a slightly same but different note, can you paint POR15 on top of Hammerite.

I find hammerite to be ok but it chips so easily. I am not bothered about finish, just want to make sure my new subframes are caked in the stuff!

#12 SolarB

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 03:55 PM

POR15 is very good but can only be applied to rust or properly prepared clean metal. You have to follow the instructions precisely to get the full benefit of the system but applied properly it’s superb stuff.

#13 mk3cortina

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 04:45 PM

what would be the point in putting POR15 over another paint, kind of defeats its purpose.

#14 me madjoe 90

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 04:46 PM

Boat builders use an anti rust primmer thats rich in ZINC heard its good stuff most marine stores sell it realtivly cheap and alot of them can be used with nearly all other paint types without reaction. Now if it can stop boats (constanly wet) rusting then surely it would protect a mini.

"(Zinc Rich) Primers
For underwater protection boat builders will tend to use zinc primers. These will contain 90% zinc by weight and offer some degree of cold galvanising protection. They are available in epoxy or natural thinned. The natural thinned paint is said to be more effective, but it's adhesion is poor - it is important to sand blast the bare metal surface to provide a rough surface for the paint to bond to, otherwise it can be scraped off with a finger nail. Any exposed areas should be overcoated in anti-stonechip paint." Qoute from this site - http://www.mig-weldi...o.uk/primer.htm

Examples of such paints
http://marinestore.co.uk/HA1326.html


Note : Apply to bare metal like all primmers should and are used for....

Edited by me madjoe 90, 02 September 2010 - 04:48 PM.


#15 AVV IT

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:24 PM

I would avoid using standard red oxide from DIY stores (B&Q/ Wilkinsons and the like) for automotive use, as it takes forever to fully dry/set, causing problems when you try and sand it down or spray paint. You can buy an automotive red oxide though that is cellulose based, this is much better and dries enough to allow gentle sanding and over-painting in a matter of minutes.




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