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Converting Auto To Manual Help Needed


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#1 TheAntiChris

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 03:41 PM

I am converting my 1990 1300 Sprite Auto to Manual using the 1300 Manual engine from a 1989 car.

I have the converter mounts from MiniSport but am not sure if I am doing things right as it does not seem to fit.

I have put the spacer plates against the subframe and when I lower the engine down it does not sit low enough - I can bolt one side on but the other is off.

I though perhaps the plates were meant to go between the engine and mounts, but this all seems wrong?!?

Anybody done this that can tell me where I am going wrong please?

#2 pikey7

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 03:58 PM

about a hole diameter off? It's normal. It's that the engine mounts are new, so they are a very tight fit. the techinique that worked for me is to loosen off the side that fits and try to shovw the engine one side or the other until you get some possibility of sliding a big screwdriver in the unfixed holes, then use that to lever it about to get the bolts in. then tighten it all up.

#3 me madjoe 90

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 04:14 PM

about a hole diameter off? It's normal. It's that the engine mounts are new, so they are a very tight fit. the techinique that worked for me is to loosen off the side that fits and try to shovw the engine one side or the other until you get some possibility of sliding a big screwdriver in the unfixed holes, then use that to lever it about to get the bolts in. then tighten it all up.


This way worked for me to. But they were about centermeter off, i ended up taking the rad off and long bit of wood big hammer tryed hitting it into place on the top of the mount on the radiator side. Then managed to lever it in with a big screwdriver (now bent but oh well) .

#4 TheAntiChris

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:31 PM

Thanks for the speedy replys.

The engine mount is sat about 1-2 cm higher than it should be. No where near enough to get a screwdriver in to line the holes up unfortunatly.

Leaving it tonight as I have been at it since 8am and am knackered now!

#5 grumpy2

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:11 PM

Thanks for the speedy replys.

The engine mount is sat about 1-2 cm higher than it should be. No where near enough to get a screwdriver in to line the holes up unfortunatly.

Leaving it tonight as I have been at it since 8am and am knackered now!


Hmm this has me thinking, sorry to barge in but what's involved in the conversion and what are the approx costs please. seen a nice auto but only like auto with big V8s!

G

#6 MRA

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:09 PM

Have you driven a good 1275 auto ? changes can be better and sharper than a lot of V8's :)

If you need a buyer for the auto unit give me a call on 07789 872368 (Martin) :)

#7 TheAntiChris

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:34 AM

Still no joy this morning - At full wiggle the edge of the nut is at the edge of the hole. not near enough to get a screwdriver through.

I have tried everything I can think of, from lifting one side of the engine with the hoist and even sitting on it at wiggling (thats 16+ stone of me!)

Any other ideas as I don't know what to do now? - Its like I need both spacer plates to be half the width they are!

Grumpy2 - There is loadas of info on convertions if you search these forums. Would only do it if really needed though! If you want a manual, buy a manual!

#8 pikey7

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:37 AM

You're not trying hard enough! Put your back into it! :thumbsup:

Have you disconnected the engine steadies?

#9 TheAntiChris

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:43 AM

lol - thanks pikey7 ;D

The engine is just sat on it's 2 mounts (one side loosly bolted in) and one of the driveshafts is semi-engauged (plenty of slack there still). The steadies are tucked up out of the way and there is nothing else even touching the engine.

:thumbsup:

#10 pikey7

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:51 AM

which side is bolted it? I found it was easier to get the bolts in the flywheel side, and then try to get them in the rad end. Purely because you can loosen the rad mount bracket and get that little extra bit of movement in the system. Dunno if that's the same on an auto/conversion?

If that still doesn't work, take the front bolt completely out of the "fixed" side, and aswell as going from side to side, you can also try to rock the engine front to back to get the bolt in the the rear of the opposite. once that's in, it should be easier to find the front hole with screwdrivers/levers.

even if you can "just" see the edge of the hole, try a small screwdriver just to get it close, and then try a bit more fiddling. They will go... it just takes some persuasion!

#11 woodsy483

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:52 AM

Have you driven a good 1275 auto ? changes can be better and sharper than a lot of V8's :thumbsup:

If you need a buyer for the auto unit give me a call on 07789 872368 (Martin) ;D


I have an auto 998 for sale inc subframe, calipers, selctor and ancilleries if needed as I'm doing the auto to manual conversion but using the manual subframe not the mounts. let me know if interested

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Here is a guide to the auto to manual conversion

Attached File  mini_auto_to_manual_conversion_page1.pdf   340.24K   43 downloads
Attached File  mini_auto_to_manual_conversion_page2.pdf   376.37K   39 downloads
Attached File  mini_auto_to_manual_conversion_page3.pdf   369.33K   41 downloads
Attached File  mini_auto_to_manual_conversion_page4.pdf   384.78K   38 downloads

#12 Pending

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 11:19 AM

and when you fit the engine, dont forget the park switch needs linking :thumbsup:

#13 me madjoe 90

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 09:33 PM

If you still strugleing ive had an idea, Ratchet strap long bit of wood wider than the wheel base to pull it into place.
make sure its a strong bit of wood 2 by 4 should do or larger.

1. lay ratchet strap under wood.
2. roll car onto wood so front wheels are balancing on wood, chock back wheels/ hand brake.
3. hook ratchet strap round engine being carfull that it is not puting pressure on anything that could brake like fuel pump, rocker cover ect... so like just beside the thermostat housing ones sure its in a safe position rachet down till holes line up ish.

I sure that should work.

#14 not so mini

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 04:21 PM

and when you fit the engine, dont forget the park switch needs linking :)


Where are the wires ( I know Red/white) on an SPI? I did an old car a while back and the wires were near the selector but doing a '96 sprite now and can not find the wires to join

#15 Pending

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 04:38 PM

and when you fit the engine, dont forget the park switch needs linking :)


Where are the wires ( I know Red/white) on an SPI? I did an old car a while back and the wires were near the selector but doing a '96 sprite now and can not find the wires to join


i did this 2 years ago now, i think it was somewhere down near the front of the gear box, behind the casing where the selector cable is, i think, well its that area




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