What Spec Should I Be Going For?
#16
Posted 07 September 2010 - 09:45 PM
I'm really considering this metro turbo lump now, a turbo Mini would be epic. Will it fit without bulkhead modifications?
#17
Posted 07 September 2010 - 10:01 PM
As a rough guide i spent £550 doing my original std metro turbo conversion. 6 weeks later i was up at Morspeed ordering a 1293 short engine kit and modified head because i'd blown it up. 1000 miles after that i ordered a SCCR box and 4 pin diff from icklemini because i'd blown the std one up.
35k miles later i'm still running the same 1293 bottom end, had some more head work done, and another SC box with LSD now. I've enjoyed it but it was a lot of maintenance when it was my daily drive @ 160ish hp. Expect yearly stripdowns to check condition of shells and bearings etc.
Whatever your budget is add an extra 1k for stuff you've forgotten.
Not trying to talk you out of it as i love mine, just trying to be honest.
#18
Posted 07 September 2010 - 10:42 PM
#19
Posted 07 September 2010 - 11:11 PM
Get a 1275 and depending on your budget get a cam kit (about £200) a modified head (my stage 3 head was £200 used) and spend the rest on rebuild parts, maybe with a few other extra like a lightened flywheel etc...
#20
Posted 07 September 2010 - 11:58 PM
Edited by skaterava, 08 September 2010 - 12:05 AM.
#21
Posted 08 September 2010 - 05:42 AM
I was told you can fit something called a mirage manifold to fit a turbo then you dont need a bulkhead box
yeah they're ~£350 to buy, then you need to add the cost of buying a T2 turbo as the std T3 doesn;t fit, then make up you own oil feed and drain, actuator bracket etc. Don't get me wrong they're a great piece of kit, we fitted one to my mates estate and can't fault it but they will consume your budget
Edited by bud666, 08 September 2010 - 05:42 AM.
#22
Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:19 AM
#23
Posted 08 September 2010 - 08:22 AM
#24
Posted 08 September 2010 - 09:56 AM
Also, they dont drive quite the same as a standard engine. At low revs, the turbo engine in my friends' car was like a 998. its not until you increase the revs that it really picks up. Also, this one smoked. Like, couldnt see out of the mirror behind you.... There is a bit more complexity to a turbo engine, oil seals, turbo lag, as well as the inevitable insurance increases as soon as you tell them you have put a turbo engine in the car!
the T3 is ancient, the T2 turbo shouldnt creat any lag at a lower rpm as its a smaller turbo, should run out of puff at higher revs compaired to the t3 but its also not just to do with that. As for the smoking turbo, tell him to get it rebuilt if its smoking that bad the piston clip seals are buggered
#25
Posted 08 September 2010 - 10:12 AM
Rebore/new pistons/crank grind/cam bearings/head refurb/new cam/refurb gearbox and new clutch etc.
I'd be looking at a 2nd hand MG metro engine, giving it a full rebuild and then maybe a 276 cam.
That should kill off most of your £1k and give you a good base engine to modify further.
It may be worth having a look here..
http://www.autosprint.co.uk/?p=p_44
I've not bought anything off em but they've been going for years and the prices are pretty good as well.
#26
Posted 08 September 2010 - 12:31 PM
Slightly related question, would it be worth fabricating a bracket to mount the radiator behind the grille?
#27
Posted 09 September 2010 - 09:05 AM
#28
Posted 09 September 2010 - 10:01 AM
But the MPI doesn't need a rolling road to keep it in order and already has electronic ignition and has no choke. Which is all nice.
Just like to add incase no body knows but all cars have a chock system :] its need to start the car from cold they are all done via the ECU these days
and MPI engine would be good but its the wiring loom, ecu and everything in the engine bay and your stick with like inch of room here and there to work in its hell!
you could get an MPI gear box + a carb 1275 Engine and 12g940 head with set of twin carbs, LCB exhust and RC40 with a good cam :] there's a nice engine
#29
Posted 09 September 2010 - 10:08 AM
you could get an MPI gear box
why? it has a low diff ratio yes, which is comfortable for crusing but theres quite alot of reports about them being made of something similar to cheese, seen a few stripped teeth. When you start putting alot of power through it you will have more of a problem.
another problem is with putting a longer duration cam, you dont want to be dropping off cam with every gearchange otherwise it will make for a horrible drive
#30
Posted 09 September 2010 - 03:25 PM
i bought an engine off here which turned out had sat for a long time and seized up. In the end i spent well over a grand which included a rebore, fast road cam, duplex timing chain, modified the head a little, reconditioned the gearbox, new clutch and a quite a few other bits and pieces (luckily i got quite good discount on alot of it).
But that was just to get it running nice, when ive got some more money i plan to modify it and hopefully get some more power
Its a brilliant learning curve but like Shifty said, most of the money goes on the rebuild of the engine but personally for me its worked out better that way and i have a good solid starting point that i can build on later when i have the money
if id had all the money and time i definately would have gone metro turbo though
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