ok my problem is that at first when my mini is cold it runs fine and all is well
but when the engine is walm> pull up at traffic lights
SLPPPPUTTERRRRRR SLPUUUEETTTTTTTTTTTTER COUGH STOP
what could be wrong ?
it has a new standard cluch
Warm engine........evil traffic lights
Started by
Sutty01
, Apr 15 2004 11:08 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 15 April 2004 - 11:08 AM
#2
Posted 15 April 2004 - 06:05 PM
Mine did this but it was because the carb was blocked - easily fixed by fitting a fuel filter. This is probably nothing to do with whats wrong with yours but this only seemed to happen to me when it was warm and only really bothered it when i took off?? I'm sure someone who knows what they're talkin about will be able help you mate. Good luck
#3
Posted 15 April 2004 - 09:21 PM
sounds like you have a fuel/carb problem.
as adam has said "fit an inline fuel filter" and clean out your float chamber. you could have some dirty deposits lyeing around in the fuel system.
what is the idle speed when cold, and if you leave her idling for a while, what happens when the temp goes up?
as adam has said "fit an inline fuel filter" and clean out your float chamber. you could have some dirty deposits lyeing around in the fuel system.
what is the idle speed when cold, and if you leave her idling for a while, what happens when the temp goes up?
#4
Posted 15 April 2004 - 09:23 PM
this is when ideling in first by the way so.... that should make a dif?
#5
Posted 15 April 2004 - 09:34 PM
Sounds like your mixture is out and you need better dashpot oil.
Get it down to the rolling road, you'll need to get it tuned if your puttin the MED head on.
Get it down to the rolling road, you'll need to get it tuned if your puttin the MED head on.
#6
Posted 15 April 2004 - 09:39 PM
did you say you were idling in first?....if you are, and your foot is on the clutch, it sounds like your clutch is dragging, and making the engine stall.
dig your haynes book out, and adjust your clutch, that should sort it.
dig your haynes book out, and adjust your clutch, that should sort it.
#7
Posted 15 April 2004 - 09:44 PM
If that doesnt cure it then it could be your thrust. As they wear out they cause the crank and block to bind under the presure of you pressing the clutch. I had a set of thrusts fall out once distroying the block and crank, but every time I pressed the clutch, the engine stalled.
Best way of testing to see if they are worn it to get a long scew driver and (with the engine switched off!) see if you can move the crank pully (the bottom one under the rad) from side to side. It will be stiff, but if it moves byy a noticable amount then its engine out time...
Best way of testing to see if they are worn it to get a long scew driver and (with the engine switched off!) see if you can move the crank pully (the bottom one under the rad) from side to side. It will be stiff, but if it moves byy a noticable amount then its engine out time...
#8
Posted 15 April 2004 - 10:42 PM
well acording to my dad the head is a modified turbo head from a metro done by med witch should be interesting
#9
Posted 18 April 2004 - 06:50 PM
again im not sure that would be best due to compression unless ur skimming alot off but still u got oil and water galleries thats gona break into! this aswell as the aerodynamics and the flow though into the chambers is totally different. u spoken to med yet?
#10
Posted 18 April 2004 - 10:31 PM
The best way of checking for exssive crankshaft end float is while you are driving, rest your foot heavily of the clutch pedal and accerate and take your foot off the accelerator quickly, if the thrusts are worn the pedal will 'pump'
Siggy
Siggy
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