14 replies to this topic

[huw_jenks]

1979 Mini 1000, manual, Metro vented disk brakes. Engine going in is a MG Metro.

Right, this could be a fairly long running topic going by the progress made today, although 'progress' is a slightly grand term for removing a potjoint and swapping an engine mount.

So I have the driveshafts bolted into the hubs (but not torqued up yet) and on the opposite end I have the pot joints. So the question is, do I have the 'pots' in the engine bay and then push them into the the diff, or attach them to the diff before dropping the engine in then push the driveshafts into the pots?

Next question. I have the engine mounts seperate from the engine and subframe at the moment, is it easier to attach them to the gearbox then bolt them into the subframe, or bolt them to the subframe and drop the engine in on top?

And thirdly, I had previously thought that the block and 'box need to be assembled before dropping them in, requiring a crane. But the guy I bought the engine from said he's done a lot of engine swaps where he puts the 'box in, then the block, then the flywheel housing and clutch housing. I'd never heard of this being done before, but it would save hiring a crane if I can get a hand putting the engine block in. Thoughts?

huw

[bmcecosse]

Yes! I do the box in first - then block (without head to reduce weight if you don't have a crane) then assemble the transfer case/fit flywheel etc. It's by far the easiest way to do the job if no crane to hand. Pots on shafts - then stab them into the diff when the box is in place - and normally would have the engine mounts on the gearbox and wok and then wiggle them into place on the subby. I do also have a simple 'lifting crane' using a childs swing frame - widened with a piece of heavy tube - and a cheap pull-lift attached, and have changed engine with this too. I had a mate who used to use the lamp post out side his house - to attach a chain hoist for engine swaps. Extra advantage of good lighting too if working at night........

[jay whiting]

I always do the following, remove top and bottom ball joints from the top and bottom arms, slide out the hum with shafts all intact, drod in engine and slide the shafts/ and hub back in, re fit top and bottom arms. Job done.

[huw_jenks]

Thanks for the help so far guys, I've resumed work this weekend on getting the engine back in but still making slow progress. I spent the morning taking all of the studs out of the side of the old gearbox and putting them into the new one, but I still seem to be missing some. When my car had it's knackered engine removed I took off all the ancillaries and head so just the block and box remained in the car, attached by the mounts, driveshafts and gear linkage. Then the garage took the engine out and split the engine for me, but didn't bother putting it back together (there wasn't much point really) so know I am sorting through a box of random nuts, bolts, studs and all sorts of flange finding the bits that are needed for this new engine! This is why it's taking me a while...

Just one question today, I seem to be lacking any means of securing the block and gearbox together, which I gather is quite an important factor when building an engine. Should there be studs in the bottom of the block that go through the gearbox casing and the nuts that go on, or are there bolts that so through the 'box into the block? I do have a few spare bolts and washers that I'm yet to find a use for, so I'm guessing on the latter.

Thanks

[Guess-Works.com]

In no way would I recommend building the engine in the car... there is just too much to go wrong which will mean you'll have to pull it all out again...

what happens if you drop something in the gearbox, and can't get it out, just takes a nut or bolt to fall off that common "put parts there place" called the scuttle to inadvertently fall in, even worse unnoticed...

Even dropping the block onto the gearbox needs to be done carefully to make sure you don't dislodge gaskets or seals, I can't imagine anything worse for your back than leaning over an engine bay with a built short block and trying to put it on a gearbox which is not even mounted to the subframe...

Hire a crane and do it once and properly.

[Shifty]

Yes! I do the box in first - then block (without head to reduce weight if you don't have a crane) then assemble the transfer case/fit flywheel etc. It's by far the easiest way to do the job if no crane to hand. Pots on shafts - then stab them into the diff when the box is in place - and normally would have the engine mounts on the gearbox and wok and then wiggle them into place on the subby. I do also have a simple 'lifting crane' using a childs swing frame - widened with a piece of heavy tube - and a cheap pull-lift attached, and have changed engine with this too. I had a mate who used to use the lamp post out side his house - to attach a chain hoist for engine swaps. Extra advantage of good lighting too if working at night........

On your own head be it if you try the method detailed by bmcecosse!! I don't recommend this method at all/in the slightest/no way!!

Matter of fact I don't honestly think that I could think of a more complicated arse/about face way of doing it!!

Hire an engine crane or remove the engine/subby in one go.

[secondopsman]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Couldnt agree more and if you need one
http://www.hss.com/g...ne-Folding.html
Pete

[huw_jenks]

Well thanks for the warning guys, but so far so good. The 'box is in with the driveshafts connected up and tomorrow I'm gonna start sorting the gaskets and which bolts go where.

But, a neighbour of mine (and mechanic) popped around earlier and pointed out something that hadn't occured to me. With the block on top of the box, those bolt at the back are going to be a real pain to torque up... Another good reason to assemble the motor before putting it in! I'm hoping that my long weedy arms should be able to reach so long as I undo the engine steady and slide the gearbox forward a bit.

So, we'll see what (if any..) progress is made tomorrow, but perhaps I will be looking for an engine crane after all.

[huw_jenks]

Okay, good news! Gearbox is in and the block is sitting on top! Happpy days. Those bolts around the back might be a bit of a pain but I'm sure I can manage.

My only question today is for anyone with a Metro type Oil/Coolant heat exchanger. Which way should the hoses point? No chance to the front becuase of the grille and I'm worried about the starter motor being in the way on the O/S and the radiator/fanbelt being in the way on the N/S. Any suggestions?

thanks

[Carlos W]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Couldnt agree more and if you need one
http://www.hss.com/g...ne-Folding.html
Pete

Brilliant link, that'll be the best £37.50 I'll ever spend!

[huw_jenks]

Well anyway....

The current questions I have are:

1) Oil/Coolant heat exchanger. Which way should the coolant pipes face? O/S or N/S?

2) I seem to be lacking quite a few bolts and studs. On the O/S of the gearbox where the flywheel housing sits I have studs (nearly enough of them I think..) but in the block above there are no studs. There are no studs in the old engine block, and nothing suitable in the big box of bolts and nuts and assorted flange that the garage left me with. Any ideas what parts I am looking for to go in here? A specific size of bolt or stud?

Any help would be appreciated, especially on the later!

[ado15]

One question....

Did you set up the idler gear end float with your new transfer case gasket before starting to put in back in the car? If not, I would suggest you need to take it all back out again!

[huw_jenks]

One question....

Did you set up the idler gear end float with your new transfer case gasket before starting to put in back in the car? If not, I would suggest you need to take it all back out again!

Yes.

Anyway... See above.

[partsguy1]

A+ uses bolts not studs, the thread varies, course for the block, and fine for the gearbox case........they have heads that look like this. you will notice that they have a flange under the head.
[attachment=103316:Primary_Gear.jpg]

[huw_jenks]

A+ uses bolts not studs, the thread varies, course for the block, and fine for the gearbox case........they have heads that look like this. you will notice that they have a flange under the head.
[attachment=103316:Primary_Gear.jpg]

Just what I needed! Thanks partsguy1!