which would be best to fit, an electrical or mechanical oil pressure gauge? just in terms or reliability and ease of fitment to a 998

Mechanical Or Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge?
Started by
mk3cortina
, Sep 26 2010 09:31 AM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:31 AM
#2
Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:38 AM
mechanical in theory, should be a lot more reliable, it should also be more accurate, I'm fitting a mechanical one anyway
#3
Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:38 AM
Fitted both and ease of fitment no real difference.
Only difference we found was the sender for the electrical one was quite large and when we tried to fit the T piece to allow use of the warning light as well there wasn't room, so ended up just fitting the sender for the gauge.
The mechanical one we could fit the T piece and so do have the light.
Only difference we found was the sender for the electrical one was quite large and when we tried to fit the T piece to allow use of the warning light as well there wasn't room, so ended up just fitting the sender for the gauge.
The mechanical one we could fit the T piece and so do have the light.
#4
Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:43 AM
ill go for a mechanical one, is this TIM gauge any good? ive always been a smiths person but were on a budget here.
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
also would the copper pipe have issues with the engine contantly moving? as in fatigue over time.
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
also would the copper pipe have issues with the engine contantly moving? as in fatigue over time.
Edited by mk3cortina, 26 September 2010 - 09:45 AM.
#5
Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:51 AM
i didnt know you could fit electric ones? i'd love to get a full set of new say(type r) gauges, but i thought you couldnt fit an electric oil pressure gauge:/ can anyone tell me where to buy the sender for a electrical oil pressure gauge?
thanks
thanks
#6
Posted 26 September 2010 - 12:28 PM
Most (but not all) aftermarket electrical gauges will come with a sending unit. If not, the same place that sold you the gauge should sell the sending units. If they don't... don't buy from them.
Do not try to make an aftermarket gauge work with a Smiths sender. (Temperature or oil pressure).
My comment about which is "easier" to install, is that the electrics are easier to handle but the mechanical ones are typically more accurate and reliable.
Copper tubing is OK. However, you do NOT run a straight line from the block to the gauges. Somewhere between the block and the firewall you need to form several loops of copper tubing (like a spring) about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. Those coils will absorb the vibrations and rocking of the engine. This prolongs the life of the tubing a bit. MiniSpares and other sources also sell stainless overbraid oil lines for gauges. They can be very nice.
Do not try to make an aftermarket gauge work with a Smiths sender. (Temperature or oil pressure).
My comment about which is "easier" to install, is that the electrics are easier to handle but the mechanical ones are typically more accurate and reliable.
Copper tubing is OK. However, you do NOT run a straight line from the block to the gauges. Somewhere between the block and the firewall you need to form several loops of copper tubing (like a spring) about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. Those coils will absorb the vibrations and rocking of the engine. This prolongs the life of the tubing a bit. MiniSpares and other sources also sell stainless overbraid oil lines for gauges. They can be very nice.
#7
Posted 26 September 2010 - 01:53 PM
thanks dklawson, i wouldnt have put the loops in the copper line until you mentioned it. ive bought that TIM gauge kit with everything needed to fit the mini.
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