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Torque Wrench That Does 188-200 Lbf Ft?


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#1 bunch1980

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:13 AM

Cheapest I have found is about £80 from Machine mart, is there any other cheaper ones? Or any other way of doing it?
I have a torque wrench about £30 and its done it all so far on cars and bikes.

This torque figure is very high. I would really like to change brake discs myself as they are so cheap to buy for stock ones. This is also providing I can undo the things first lol.

Would it be ok for me do them up as tight as possible then take it to my local garage that is around 1 miles away and have them torque it up?

#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:20 AM

Halfords....

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165469

Top quality and useful addition to your tool box.. you will need it again...

and get yourself a breaker bar while you're there... don't undo things with a torque wrench.

Edited by Guess-Works.com, 11 October 2010 - 07:21 AM.


#3 mini danny

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:21 AM

hmmm when i took mine to garage they didnt torque it they just done it as tight as they could get it to the nearest whole for the pin :D

#4 samsfern

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:24 AM

halfords tools are very good, lifetime guarentee, decent price, and they dont quibble when you take a broken back, they just get you a new one from stock. Also if your in the trade, ask about a trade card, ive got one and i get decent discounts on tools, oils, etc.

#5 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:27 AM

Hmmm.... I'll not go into the long and protracted story, but I had to replace someones complete 1/2 axle assembly last week because some spanner monkey did the CV up wrong ( probably with an air gun and too tight )

This is what was left of the tapered washer

Attached File  06102010148.jpg   104.07K   5 downloads

Spun the bearing in the hub, stripped the splines off the drive flange, CV looked like it had been in a cement mixer

When you do wheel bearings up, the should be first torqued with a big flat washer without the taper fitted, then undone, taper fitted and torqued up again, and then turned to next free hole for split pin... make sure the holes in the CV are not inline with the wheel studs as that's a real pain...

#6 bunch1980

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:54 AM

Hmmm.... I'll not go into the long and protracted story, but I had to replace someones complete 1/2 axle assembly last week because some spanner monkey did the CV up wrong ( probably with an air gun and too tight )

This is what was left of the tapered washer

Attached File  06102010148.jpg   104.07K   5 downloads

Spun the bearing in the hub, stripped the splines off the drive flange, CV looked like it had been in a cement mixer

When you do wheel bearings up, the should be first torqued with a big flat washer without the taper fitted, then undone, taper fitted and torqued up again, and then turned to next free hole for split pin... make sure the holes in the CV are not inline with the wheel studs as that's a real pain...


Thanks for link above going to have to see how much monies i end with for xmas then me thinks!

I have read that last bit before about tightening it up with out tapered one fitted, lol not having taken off a disc before im not sure where these bits are but sure its clear once done.

#7 Dolly 89

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:18 AM

how does everyone secure the disc whilst tightening up because i never found a good way of doing it i have always just used a mates windy gun when i have needed the disc off
sorry for hijacking im just interested to know as i will be taking mine off soon

#8 Ethel

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:28 AM

with the road wheel fitted and on the floor. Even easier with vented discs: just stick a stout bar in a vent. The torque used to be 150ft/lb, as you'll turn it to line up for the split pin it can't be very critical so you could do the bathroom scales trick.

#9 bunch1980

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:31 AM

with the road wheel fitted and on the floor. Even easier with vented discs: just stick a stout bar in a vent. The torque used to be 150ft/lb, as you'll turn it to line up for the split pin it can't be very critical so you could do the bathroom scales trick.


I would need to put spare steel wheel on to do that i guess as with revo's no access? According to haynes multiple holes are 150ft/lb but I think that is earlier cars mine is a 93'
Yeah it always says to tighten further to line up the hole not loosen. Whats bathroom scales trick??

#10 Yoda

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:34 AM

you could do the bathroom scales trick.


I wonder how many members know this one :D

#11 samsfern

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:46 AM

you could do the bathroom scales trick.


I wonder how many members know this one :thumbsup:


haha, one of the old coffin dodgers at work told me about that trick, id still rather use a torque wrench though, lol :D

#12 Ethel

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:48 AM

Yep, the torque figure seems to have changed but you'd be buying the same parts be it an MPI or Mk3 S. :D


Stand on your scales and lift your breaker bar to tighten it, the scales will show the extra force - torque is force times distance. If you put on 20lbs while holding the end of a 3 foot bar that's 60ft/lbs.

#13 bunch1980

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 09:11 AM

Yep, the torque figure seems to have changed but you'd be buying the same parts be it an MPI or Mk3 S. :D


Stand on your scales and lift your breaker bar to tighten it, the scales will show the extra force - torque is force times distance. If you put on 20lbs while holding the end of a 3 foot bar that's 60ft/lbs.


Yeah just mean torque is even higher meaning more expensive wrench lol

Ahh I get ya, lol do have some nice digital weigh scales think will get a wrench or garage to do it if a lot cheaper!

#14 Ethel

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 09:44 AM

I'd have a go with the scales you can assess the effect of aligning the pin hole on the actual torque & decide if it's worth bothering about accuracy. All you're actually doing is trying to compress the bearing spacer - I think the difference between 150 & 300 ft lbs on the actual running clearance of the bearing will be negligible.

#15 bunch1980

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 10:33 AM

I'd have a go with the scales you can assess the effect of aligning the pin hole on the actual torque & decide if it's worth bothering about accuracy. All you're actually doing is trying to compress the bearing spacer - I think the difference between 150 & 300 ft lbs on the actual running clearance of the bearing will be negligible.


Certainly might be worth saving the £80 or so! just might not be to use ones we have in bathroom as there are glass of some sort lol
and i need a 3 foot pole?
I gat ya and with spilt pin atleast that will stop it coming right off.




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