personally i wouldnt use it as its much easier to snap a single cable it sounds like it is twin and earth cable for a house right? and you need at least 2mm cable but personally i would go for 2.5mm if you can get it from anywherei dont think i can use it its a solid wire not smaller wires wrapped together but it 1-2mm thinkmini danny what size cable is the cable that you have it should say on it in mm

Cigarette Lighter
#16
Posted 19 October 2010 - 10:02 AM
#17
Posted 19 October 2010 - 10:02 AM
same as you never use household cable on a car.
get some proper stuff! It's not like it's expensive...
edit: if you need it today, you can get a reel of proper stuff from halfords or motor factors. It'll have the amperage rating written on it.
edit edit: DON'T go by size on cables. you need to read the rating. Materials can differ so a 2mm cable of one manufacturer isn't necessarily the same as a 2mm cable from another.
Edited by pikey7, 19 October 2010 - 10:11 AM.
#18
Posted 19 October 2010 - 10:23 AM
you don't ever use solid core wire on a car. It's not rated for it, bad for vibrations, and you can't crimp it correctly.
same as you never use household cable on a car.
get some proper stuff! It's not like it's expensive...
edit: if you need it today, you can get a reel of proper stuff from halfords or motor factors. It'll have the amperage rating written on it.
edit edit: DON'T go by size on cables. you need to read the rating. Materials can differ so a 2mm cable of one manufacturer isn't necessarily the same as a 2mm cable from another.
The previous owner of my car has used some household lighting wires and they burnt as soon as they had a short.
#19
Posted 19 October 2010 - 10:33 AM
600v
18awg
105deg c
it is aprox 2mm thick and multi strand cable
hope that can clear up confusion.....
#20
Posted 19 October 2010 - 10:41 AM
18awg is 0.82mm2, so a normal quality cable will be good for about 13A
#21
Posted 19 October 2010 - 11:01 AM
i was overlooking the purpose of the inline fuse myself but it makes sence to get one. if i can't take off the fuse box i hope to strip a live to the ignition, solder all wires needed together and insulate with some heat shrink tube.....
#22
Posted 19 October 2010 - 11:13 AM
Any suggestions on the amp of in-line fuse I would need to use to connect here?
#23
Posted 19 October 2010 - 12:37 PM
#24
Posted 19 October 2010 - 01:02 PM
as long as you pop an inline fuse in aslong as it can handle more than the fuse it will be fine but i always make sure there is a good tolerance so for what you are using i would make sure it is capable of atleast 18Ampswhat ampage of cable would ill need ???
#25
Posted 19 October 2010 - 01:12 PM
as long as you pop an inline fuse in aslong as it can handle more than the fuse it will be fine but i always make sure there is a good tolerance so for what you are using i would make sure it is capable of atleast 18Ampswhat ampage of cable would ill need ???
so this is more than enough clicky is the next one above 18
#26
Posted 19 October 2010 - 02:05 PM
#27
Posted 19 October 2010 - 02:06 PM
#28
Posted 19 October 2010 - 02:19 PM
avoid "snappers" or scotchlocks like the plague. they will split the insulation, don't protect the wire anymore, and leave it open to corrosion, which will eventually have an effect on what the original source wire powered (not good if it's a live coming straight from the fusebox). If you want to do it "properly", either use a proper insulated crimp connection, or use a piggyback spade connector to come directly off the fusebox.
Totally agree, they are the route of all evil!
#29
Posted 19 October 2010 - 02:25 PM
that looks way too big, you won't need anything near battery supply size, if you ask in halfords and told them what you need it for they would be able to point you in the right direction....
i work in halfords

#30
Posted 19 October 2010 - 02:36 PM
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