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Gearbox Rebuild - Top Hat Removal?


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#1 new_van_man

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 08:21 PM

Ok finally got that nut off.... what a mission that was!

Was going great guns stripping mainshaft, until......

as i was trying to get the 'top hat' off and the sycro behind it came apart throwing the tree balls everywhere, luckily found them although ot doubt these willbe a pain in the butt to get back in.

But my biggest problem is cant get teh top hat off (1st journal bearing bush). Does anyone have any ideas for doing this?

Below are a couple of pictures - note the stuff that appears to be rust on the inside of top hat.....(

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close up of top hat

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I cant just drift the main cog out as not enough room to release the plugers on the gear before I can just see the holes but thats all.

As always all help much appeciated!

#2 new_van_man

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 08:26 PM

a bigger picture!

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#3 mk1leg

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 09:01 PM

Hi..been there done that got the tee shirt .............its a thing you learn for oneself when stripping a g/boe and belive me you will need 2prs of hands to put those springs and balls back in place.................. :thumbsup:
and there is another plunger and spring holding that together............... :)

Edited by mk1leg, 24 October 2010 - 09:03 PM.


#4 new_van_man

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 06:30 AM

what would be the best way to get top hat off its is solid on the shaft?

Haynes says simply remove...... Not much room to get a hammer or drift on it... So i'm a bit puzzled!

#5 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 06:53 AM

1. Place the shaft in a vice, gripping below the 3rd gear, so shaft pointing upwards with top hat upper most..
2. Take one LARGE flat screwdriver (at least 30 - 40cm long), and use as a lever between the bottom of the top hat and the 1st/2nd synchro hub.
3. Lever the top hat upwards as far as you can go.
4. Turn the screwdriver through 90 degrees and lever up again as far as you can go.
5. Slide the 1st/2nd synchro hub up and turn slightly, then repeat steps 2 to 4..

If by then the top hat has not freed, then return the synchro to its rightful place, and this now give you plenty of room to tap the slider off the remaining part with a drift, or can be pulled off with a puller.

Edited by Guess-Works.com, 25 October 2010 - 06:54 AM.


#6 new_van_man

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 07:09 AM

1. Place the shaft in a vice, gripping below the 3rd gear, so shaft pointing upwards with top hat upper most..
2. Take one LARGE flat screwdriver (at least 30 - 40cm long), and use as a lever between the bottom of the top hat and the 1st/2nd synchro hub.
3. Lever the top hat upwards as far as you can go.
4. Turn the screwdriver through 90 degrees and lever up again as far as you can go.
5. Slide the 1st/2nd synchro hub up and turn slightly, then repeat steps 2 to 4..

If by then the top hat has not freed, then return the synchro to its rightful place, and this now give you plenty of room to tap the slider off the remaining part with a drift, or can be pulled off with a puller.


ok will try that tonight, is it normal for this to get stuck on shaft?

Will it be a nightmare getting the balls back in 1/2nd sychro hub? Have you any tips for doing this? Is it worth replacing the springs at this stage?

thanks muchly

#7 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 07:35 AM

There are many methods, and even a special tool for the job, but without access to these a piston ring compressor is a good compromise..

Insert the springs, and then dob a little grease over them, this will old the balls in place... insert the inner into the piston ring compressor, and wind it up, so that the bottom of the hub is out side the compressor, place the whole lot on the synchro ring in the correct orientation and push the hub in ( like putting a piston into an engine )

but using one of these it's a piece of piddle..

http://www.mra-minis...itting-tool.htm

Edited by Guess-Works.com, 25 October 2010 - 07:37 AM.


#8 new_van_man

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 07:54 AM

Cool beans, sound easy enough........ Was going to clean all bits in gunk if I can those bits off the shaft tonight. Take it that is better than petrol as less abrasive and corrosive?

Cant wait too long or i will forgot where all the cogs go!

#9 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 09:19 AM

Cant wait too long or i will forgot where all the cogs go!


have that covered too...

http://www.theminifo...?showtopic=9808

#10 new_van_man

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 10:04 AM

Magic, thanks for all help Mr Guess Works! Its been a sharp learning curve so far!

#11 new_van_man

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 08:03 PM

I have given up on getting the top hat off it simply will not budge. I took it to a garage today and they said the only way would be to heat it up and get it off that way. But this result in distortion of the top hat, thus will have to buy a new top hat. Also is tehre any risk to teh main shaft in doing this? There is some slight wear to the bulk ring but they didnt think it was too bad. Incidently the bulk ring is now stuck to third gear, will this free up under load?

If I rebuild it, without stripping third gear and the 1/2nd synchro hub will it matter. It does not appear that any teeth are missing on the remaining gears. Is the top hat likley to have worn down at all? I take it they are normally a tight fit to the shaft anyway? So will leaving it on have any impact? the surafce of the top hat has no marks or scratches etc.

Any help much appreciated!

#12 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:03 AM

you can't change the 2nd gear baulkring without removing the top hat and 1st/2nd synchro...

If the top hat is actually stuck to the mainshaft, then I would bin the main shaft.

You also can't check the condition of a baulkring if it's stuck to the gear...

#13 new_van_man

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 11:33 AM

Horray! Top hat off, it was mega tight to the shaft tho. It required a bit of heat to get it off and off it pinged with virtually no force at all. What a bugger!

I will be getting a new top hat! The old one is still seems like a tight fit and starts binding at the top of the mainshaft just after the first set of splines end. as always the right tools make a job so much easier!

I'm looking to put teh box back together with a few new bits (bearings etc) but am wondering if i should change FD. Its a standard mg metro box so assume its got 3.44 FD. Will check this tonight.

I want the car to be able to sit on motorway happyily at 70 -80 mph (maybe even 90) without having it screaming away. My plans for the engine are nothing too grand I just want a reliable drivable functional car. i.e nippy round town and country roads but also able to cruise happily on motorways etc. What FD ratio will be best?

Many thanks guys for all your help on here especially guessworks and martin from MRA minis, I was starting to loose the will to live!




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