
Pistons
#1
Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:11 PM
Ive done a search around to try to find some more info on them but I didnt have much luck.
Cheers
blakie
#2
Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:21 PM
It's not a bad piston, although not as strong as the 21253 due to it having larger oil drain slots, as opposed to oil drain holes in the 21253. I have an innocent which has the 21251 as the previous owner had the engine re-built and the 'cheapskate' builder fitted low comp pistons. To bring the CR up again I skimmed the block and now have about 10.2:1. I wouldn't want to go any higher with 21251 pistons, but it now runs very well.
There is nothing basically wrong with the 21251 so long as you don't want to run CR's over about 10.4:1 or high sustained revs over around 6000 rpm. I wouldn't like to run them in 'detonation', with too lean a mixture or with the ignition very retarded either.
The number after the piston ID of 21251 is the oversize. i.e. 020 indicates that it is for an engine bored to +0.020" which would give 1293 cc. Mine are 21253-060 which is a +0.060" bore giving 1330 cc.
I hope this helps.
#3
Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:26 PM
#4
Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:32 PM
Yeah I understand the +40 etc. Was just after view on quality etc. How would these run without a skimed block?
With a low compression, but otherwise fine. I worked out that the CR on my Innocenti was about 8.4:1 as re-built, so i skimmed 0.065" off the block to remove the excessive combustion volume bringing it up to 10.":1.
You can work yours out. The piston dish on the 21251 is 8.4 cc and allow 1 cc for every 0.010" the piston crown sits down from block deck level at TDC. Ring land volume is 0.6 cc and gasket volume is 4 cc. You will have to measure the chamber volume of your own head, but it is likely to be about 21 cc. You don't really want the CR to be below 9:1 for decent running efficiency, but you can skim the head a bit to help which is cheaper than skimming the block. Mine was completely stripped, so block skimming was an easy option.
#5
Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:41 PM
#6
Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:04 PM
Peter
#7
Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:23 PM
Ill get the figures and PM them to you this week, then I can get onto the head supplier to get it ordered to a desired spec.
blakie
#8
Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:39 PM
#9
Posted 27 October 2010 - 06:02 PM
As for the spec you listed I have most of what you listed along with a piper 285 cam.
Chris
Edited by blakie, 27 October 2010 - 06:28 PM.
#10
Posted 27 October 2010 - 07:25 PM
The rest sounds good and you will have a good engine. Just don't rev it too much with those pistons. If you really want to rev it and make the most of the rest of the engine mods, consider using 21253 pistons. I've used them in a 1330 up to regular 7000 rpm in competition. You should get a new set for around £145 plus fitting onto the rods at c.£5 per rod.
Rob Walker is your man in Oxon. Much better than the well-known sales outlets for cylinder heads who charge a fortune for their 'Stage this 'n' that' heads. You could ask Rob to fit unleaded inlet valve seats as well with 35.6 mm inlet valves.
#11
Posted 27 October 2010 - 07:29 PM

#12
Posted 27 October 2010 - 07:49 PM
Cooperman seriously knows his stuff and is a great asset to the mini forum.
to him!
And I sincerely thank you for that compliment.
I've loved Minis since the day they were launched back when I was an impoverished very young engineering apprentice in the aircraft industry but couldn't afford one. Rallied in my first one as a navigator in 1961, bought my own first one in 1963, bought my first new car, a Cooper 998 in 1964 and got my first Cooper 'S', a Mk.1 1275, in 1969. Still own 2 Coopers, a 1964 rally car and a 1973 Innocenti 1300 Export. My wife says it's an obsession; well, maybe, but I just call it enthusiasm. I try to help all our local Mini owners and I build a few engines for a bit of retirement income or for friends. My 15-year old Grandson is currently restoring a 1997 MPI as his first road car as well.
We are all Mini-mad here in Cambs.
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