10 replies to this topic

[beentheunseen]

After seeing some scary pictures of what happens to inner wings behind shock mount brackets, i decided to pull mine off and take a look. As I feared the rust is having a party back there, and it made me wonder about why these are such rust spots.

I assume it must be caused by water getting trapped between the bracket and the inner wing, so maybe when installing some new brackets (after welding up the damage) it might make sense to use seam sealer to put a stop to this? Or maybe to drill some holes in the center of the bracket to allow any trapped moisture out?

Has anybody tried anything like this?

Edited by beentheunseen, 03 November 2010 - 07:31 PM.

[Cerberus]

I daren't take mine off after all the stuff I've read.

Treated the rust that was around certain areas of them, hopefully it hadn't made it behind the mount.

[sonikk4]

Personally i would make sure both bracket and mounting point have got several coats of paint and once fitted then sealed thoroughly. It is a moisture trap as after all its in one of the worst places you can get. Also because the mounting structure is a sandwich of two plates then moisture will work in through the mounting bolts and affect that area as well. I will be fitting these bolts with sealant for good measure.

Overkill?? maybe but what the hell its a natural water trap so the more prevention the better in my eyes.

What you could do is what we call in the aviation industry an interfay coating. Basically it means putting a skim of sealant between the two surfaces to prevent moisture ingress. Ok it will make removing the bracket a pain but if it does the job so be it. If done properly it will not rot again. If you put enough in and then bolt the mount up you will get a small amount squeezing out so you just run your finger along this to smooth it off giving a nice edge seal for good measure.

Edited by sonikk4, 03 November 2010 - 07:39 PM.

[myredmini]

In the factory they were put on bare metal face to face so as soon as water gets trapped it rusts. Just take them off. Clean them up. Repair any damage and kurust it use red oxide and paint several coats of paint on and brush some waxoyl on the mount and put it back on. Then you could put some sealer round the edge to stop water getting in.

Hope this helps.
Dan

[Dan]

and it made me wonder about why these are such rust spots.

Quite simply because the brackets were part of the body at the factory, not an assembly line fitment. Same goes for the boot and door hinges, bonnet hinges and various other little bits and pieces. The problem there is that anything that was part of the body was bolted on before the shell was painted, primed or even dipped. The only protection these have is any plating or oil on the metal when it's pressed. While the Heritage shells were being made on the Rover line the same went for them, when I got mine I took all these parts off and painted under them. I don't know if the current Heritage shells are different.

[Mini Mad Drakeley]

im dreading checking behind mine but the previous owner seems to have rust proofed my mini in certain places to hopefully he did the same behind the shock mounts but its doubtful lol

[bmcecosse]

Waxoyl!

[Timinichelsea]

I've smeared some grease behind mine when i put them back together, anything to keep the water out.

[Cooperman]

Aircraft are assembled using what is known as 'wet-assembly'. A jointing compound known as JP4 'yellow-peril' is smeared on all mating faces and this eliminates all moisture and prevents any more getting in between bolted-on components.
Personally I always 'wet-assemble' using a smear of white bath sealer and this has always worked fine. I say bath sealer, not RTV silicone sealer, as it is easier to use and does not actually set hard. I was just trial fitting some doors to an MPI this evening and I mentioned that when we do the final bolting-up we will 'wet-assemble' the hinges and any shims needed..

[sonikk4]

Aircraft are assembled using what is known as 'wet-assembly'. A jointing compound known as JP4 'yellow-peril' is smeared on all mating faces and this eliminates all moisture and prevents any more getting in between bolted-on components.
Personally I always 'wet-assemble' using a smear of white bath sealer and this has always worked fine. I say bath sealer, not RTV silicone sealer, as it is easier to use and does not actually set hard. I was just trial fitting some doors to an MPI this evening and I mentioned that when we do the final bolting-up we will 'wet-assemble' the hinges and any shims needed..

More affectionately known as Yak( Insert four letter word normally associated with dogs mess) Yellow Chromate. Not very pleasant stuff but better than the PR1436 that i'm using.

[beentheunseen]

Thanks guys, Have completed the repair - have decided to go with the interfay method. Accidentally knocked one of my bump-stops off when my angle grinder jumped though, grr...

Edited by beentheunseen, 04 November 2010 - 06:58 PM.