9 replies to this topic

[DarkConvict]

Model: Mni Cooper
Year: 2003
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

Hi,

Noticed back in July the engine fan was on after the car engine was turned off after a 1 hour drive the temp gauge had slipped into red, checked the coolant level and it was between min/max levels. The fan eventually turned off so i left it.

It has happened again over the last few days (although temp gauge was only midway), which I found odd given its been damn cold lately. Checked the coolant level and it appeared empty which was a shock, so on my step=brother advice I filled it up yesterday. Since then I have no hot air blowing in the car.

Now, ill be blunt and say I know almost nothing about how a car works mechanically as I have never needed or wanted to fiddle. But from what I have researched no hot air and low engine coolant go hand in hand. If the water is not getting through the radiator and getting warmed up, then it won't be put into the heater matrix to heat the air, and neither will heat be getting moved away from the engine. I can relate this issue to the watercooling in my PC.
Given the coolant appeared low if not dangerously empty last night (I could barely see) then its possible air is trapped in the pipework and is still causing issues, so firstly, how to a resolve this issue and bleed the system of air.
Next, I realised this afternoon, the cooling is a closed system, as such the coolant should not be low as it never escapes unless there is a leak. On this point I haven't noticed a major leak (no puddles yet) as its only been a day so will need to keep checking, but how would I diagnose a leak if it is slow?

Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem?
N/a


Cheers all.

[Nu2mini]

Do you have the new Mini ??? You say the registration date is 2003. This forum concentrates on the classic mini upto 2000

[DarkConvict]

Do you have the new Mini ??? You say the registration date is 2003. This forum concentrates on the classic mini upto 2000

Hi, Yes its the "new" model of Mini.

I did wonder if it was the older or newer models covered here, but some of the questions seemed to indicate both.

[L400RAS]

As you state - the cooling is a "closed system" ie if the coolant level drops, there is only two explanations

1) a leak. This could be a leaky rad, hose, waterpump etc. Fill the system from cold. Get it up to temperature to build the pressure in the system, and look for leaks underneath.

2) it's going through the engine, ie a headgasket problem.

[DarkConvict]

As you state - the cooling is a "closed system" ie if the coolant level drops, there is only two explanations

1) a leak. This could be a leaky rad, hose, waterpump etc. Fill the system from cold. Get it up to temperature to build the pressure in the system, and look for leaks underneath.

2) it's going through the engine, ie a headgasket problem.

In your opinions' is the car still safe to drive, as I can't get it in the garage at the moment at home (Kitchen work), and its pitch black by the time I'm home to get a moment to check it out. Come Saturday I could have a look, but I would struggle to see anything until that time due to lack of daylight.

[mk3 Cooper S]

Sounds like an air lock since you added the coolant.

Did you top up when you found low coolant in the summer?

The coolant is going somewhere.
Rad leak, hose leak, heater matrix leak or head gasket?

[mab01uk]

The most common leak points on Mk1 New MINI's are the thermostat housing and heater matrix. If it is the heater matrix the water can collect unseen beneath the carpet and thick foam in the passenger footwell although you would often smell the antifreeze inside the car first.
The later replacement thermostat housing has been redesigned if it needs replacement (and you did not notice the leak). As said there is also likely to be an airlock when you refilled the system, there are bleed valves in several hoses under the bonnet for this.
Best not to drive until fixed as overheating could damage the engine or headgasket.

[DarkConvict]

Thanks for all the information. Im planning to get a friend (ex-mechanic) to check it over, and then take it to a local garage. Its due for a service anyway so will probably get a oil/coolant change as well.

[DarkConvict]

Hi All

Just an update.

Two friends came over, who are well experienced with cars. They also thought airblock. So they opened the air value for the coolant (just the one on left of the engine). And got it so coolant was coming out and sealed the value.

Air was now warm when revving the engine. So the idea was to give it a good blast and see if it pushed out any remaining air. 14 mile drive up/down the motorway and it all appears to be working, with no loss in coolant. Will keep an eye on it and its getting serviced in Feb 2010 anyway,

[DarkConvict]

Final update (hopefully) - One problem persisted Coolant continued to leak even without the car moving so had it checked by BMW.

The water pump was leaking, and they don't fix the seals but replace the unit. So even with knocking them down its £430 to replace and fix. I sourced a pump for £140 and a mechanic to fit it for £60, but was overruled by the owner of the car and its gone to BMW to have it done.

They are also replacing the rear brake pads, which I find very odd given the front brakes are ok and the car has only done 20,000 miles.