29 replies to this topic

[minisam92]

thanks for the advice every one i think ill wait untill its set up on a rolling road and see what it makes lol think the heads modified with 35.4/7 inlet valves and 31.2 mm exhuast valves using a mark 3 cooper s 12g940 also got numbers 213 e 313 head the block is a 12a497 c24h and the gearbox is dam 2886 a/bz 3 bc & m diff is 18 / 62 = 3.444: 1 the fly wheel is 22g 2613 fbwej hope this helps you know wht type of engine i have got has also had:
regound crank and new shells
main bearings
big end bearings
thrust washers
crank balenced
duplex timing
oil pump - slot drive
water pump - high capacity
engine lock washer set
new pistons std
cam shaft 1275 a+ rally slot drive
comp diff pin
diff planet gears
3:2:1 cwp
clutch kit

[Cooperman]

That sounds excellent and it would be interesting to know specifically what the cam is, as that will determine the overall engine characteristics.

[minisam92]

That sounds excellent and it would be interesting to know specifically what the cam is, as that will determine the overall engine characteristics.

just says that its a rally cam from mini sport thats all i no to be honest

[minisam92]

That sounds excellent and it would be interesting to know specifically what the cam is, as that will determine the overall engine characteristics.

just says that its a rally cam from mini sport thats all i no to be honest

Used to be there version of the 544/286

are they a reliable/good cam though dilligaf or dont you know and are you certain about that because was going to write it down with engine spec by the way cheers 4 help and advice

[Cooperman]

That sounds excellent and it would be interesting to know specifically what the cam is, as that will determine the overall engine characteristics.

just says that its a rally cam from mini sport thats all i no to be honest

Used to be there version of the 544/286

are they a reliable/good cam though dilligaf or dont you know and are you certain about that because was going to write it down with engine spec by the way cheers 4 help and advice

The old 544 was a good cam if used with suitably low and close ratio gearing. It's quite like the 286 and may be a bit too 'hot' for everyday road use unless your engine will pull a sustained 6000 rpm plus. I think, from memory, peak power with the 544 is at about 6200 rpm so, again, a strong bottom end will be necessary to allow those sort of revs.
I've always liked the 544, but it's probably not as good as the current Kent range which benefits from years more development. It's not a good road cam as such, but for competition it is still good for rallying, especially on loose/gravel surfaces.
Optimum for a road engine is the MG Metro or Kent 266. Maybe the SW series, but I've never worked with them so can't comment.

[minisam92]

The old 544 was a good cam if used with suitably low and close ratio gearing. It's quite like the 286 and may be a bit too 'hot' for everyday road use unless your engine will pull a sustained 6000 rpm plus. I think, from memory, peak power with the 544 is at about 6200 rpm so, again, a strong bottom end will be necessary to allow those sort of revs.
I've always liked the 544, but it's probably not as good as the current Kent range which benefits from years more development. It's not a good road cam as such, but for competition it is still good for rallying, especially on loose/gravel surfaces.
Optimum for a road engine is the MG Metro or Kent 266. Maybe the SW series, but I've never worked with them so can't comment.
[/quote]
ill have to write this down lol but by the sounds of it, it ll be a 544 as he was going to use it for road rallies and beach racing but never did lol ill have to see if ive got the money for a new cam when it comes to putting the engine in her as if i put a cam in would want new lifters and push rods etc would you recommend keeping standard rockers as well?

[Cooperman]

Yes, higher-ratio rockers don't seem to gain anything below about 5500 rpm and you lose a bit at the bottom end bottom end. They only seem to give any advantage on cars with standard-ish cams which have little top end to begin with.
If the engine is not yet fitted it is worth trying to get a 266 cam and new followers. You don't need new push rods unless you have a bent one or two. Time it in accurately.
The only other thing in your spec which confuses is that you state a 3.44 final drive, then lower down you quote 3.2 crown wheel and pinion, which is the same thing as the final drive. With a 544 you might get away with a 3.44 so long as you use high revs in each gear so that when you change up you are still in the power band, but IMHO a 3.2 would be a bit too high.
It's all so easy to get right before the engine is installed, but get it wrong, or not as you would like on-the-road, and you've got to take it all to pieces again (been there, done that!).

[danrock101]

I've used a SW5 with 1.5.1 rockers and I didn't even realise my engine had a cam untill I striped it, which to most people is a good thing, it produced an amazing tourqe curve
It's my favourite road cam, that's why I'm using a 296 scatter in my 1430 daily driver don't worry I will probably end up changing it when I get bored, probably to a SW10, they're meant to be quite good, a watered down 286.

[minisam92]

Yes, higher-ratio rockers don't seem to gain anything below about 5500 rpm and you lose a bit at the bottom end bottom end. They only seem to give any advantage on cars with standard-ish cams which have little top end to begin with.
If the engine is not yet fitted it is worth trying to get a 266 cam and new followers. You don't need new push rods unless you have a bent one or two. Time it in accurately.
The only other thing in your spec which confuses is that you state a 3.44 final drive, then lower down you quote 3.2 crown wheel and pinion, which is the same thing as the final drive. With a 544 you might get away with a 3.44 so long as you use high revs in each gear so that when you change up you are still in the power band, but IMHO a 3.2 would be a bit too high.
It's all so easy to get right before the engine is installed, but get it wrong, or not as you would like on-the-road, and you've got to take it all to pieces again (been there, done that!).

i just listed what was on the reciepts lol and he told me it was 3,44 and have no reason to not belive him as he is a really good family friend and thank you cooper man for helping with the rockers i was really confused by minisport and mini spares website with the rockers but youve helped me clear that up cheers

[minisam92]

thank you dilligaf and cooper man

[minisam92]

I think you at a point now where you need to read David Vizards big yellow bible. Its called 'Tuning an A Series'. Very helpful and I read it from cover to cover.....

might be getting the blue 1 if thats any good :s

[minisam92]

oh lol going to have a read of the blue 1 then as its free lol n will try and get the yellow 1 at a later date

[minisam92]

thanks for the advice every one i think ill wait untill its set up on a rolling road and see what it makes lol think the heads modified with 35.4/7 inlet valves and 31.2 mm exhuast valves using a mark 3 cooper s 12g940 also got numbers 213 e 313 head the block is a 12a497 c24h and the gearbox is dam 2886 a/bz 3 bc & m diff is 18 / 62 = 3.444: 1 the fly wheel is 22g 2613 fbwej hope this helps you know wht type of engine i have got has also had:
regound crank and new shells
main bearings
big end bearings
thrust washers
crank balenced
duplex timing
oil pump - slot drive
water pump - high capacity
engine lock washer set
new pistons std
cam shaft 1275 a+ rally slot drive kent 286 equivilent
comp diff pin
diff planet gears
clutch kit

cheap bits i think will be ok to fit:

stainless lcb
oil coolers with braided pipes
chinese alloy rad
better engine steady
decent make of h.t leads
decent spark plugs
sump baffle ?
eletric dizzy

any other cheap obvious mods out there ?

[rick.spi]

avoid the chink rad, there cheap tat and will probably we worse than a decent normal one. if your going for cheap mods instead of getting s sainless lcb get a better quality mild lcb like a maniflow. for not much money you can ditch the dizzy altoether and get more performance and more mpg by intalling a megajolt setup which if shoped around can be gotten for under 200 quid. dont think youll need an oil cooler on that spec engine if its what i read from the other page, it wont actually benefit you in any way. a cheap obvous mod is to get a die grinder and port a few things, smooth the inlet and exhaust manifolds. theres my tips

Edited by rick.spi, 26 January 2011 - 11:48 PM.

[minisam92]

avoid the chink rad, there cheap tat and will probably we worse than a decent normal one. if your going for cheap mods instead of getting s sainless lcb get a better quality mild lcb like a maniflow. for not much money you can ditch the dizzy altoether and get more performance and more mpg by intalling a megajolt setup which if shoped around can be gotten for under 200 quid. dont think youll need an oil cooler on that spec engine if its what i read from the other page, it wont actually benefit you in any way. a cheap obvous mod is to get a die grinder and port a few things, smooth the inlet and exhaust manifolds. theres my tips

thanks for the advice mate had heard good about the chinse rads lol already got the lcb have to get the guy i work for to see if theyve been ported n if not get him to do it
n the oil cooler is going to be a freebie off of an ldv van lol would love megajolt but seems to hard n to much hassle to set up lol