11 replies to this topic

[Danny-T]

Argh, I've read a couple of similar posts so apologies for the same old same old.

Am trying to get the engine out and am totally stuck at the final hurdle, top swivel joints on the upper suspension arm on both sides is completely stuck, as is the drivers side steering rack ball joint.

I've soaked it in penetrating oil and screwed the G-clamp ball joint splitter into the original nut followed by whacking the cr8p out of it with a mallet.

I'm thinking the next step is to apply some heat but I don't have a blow torch, can anyone recommend which type and where from, don't want to spend a fortune on it but I know i'll probably need it again before too long.

Also once I've obtained said blow torch which parts do I apply heat too and for how long?

Also open to any other suggestions!

Cheers guys,

Desperate Dan

P.S I'm at the point where the grinder is looking like a feasible option...

[Barman]

Argh, I've read a couple of similar posts so apologies for the same old same old.

Am trying to get the engine out and am totally stuck at the final hurdle, top swivel joints on the upper suspension arm on both sides is completely stuck, as is the drivers side steering rack ball joint.

I've soaked it in penetrating oil and screwed the G-clamp ball joint splitter into the original nut followed by whacking the cr8p out of it with a mallet.

I'm thinking the next step is to apply some heat but I don't have a blow torch, can anyone recommend which type and where from, don't want to spend a fortune on it but I know i'll probably need it again before too long.

Also once I've obtained said blow torch which parts do I apply heat too and for how long?

Also open to any other suggestions!

Cheers guys,

Desperate Dan

P.S I'm at the point where the grinder is looking like a feasible option...

My (somewhat unorthodox) method was to support the top arm on a crow-bar that was resting in two axle stands...

Then I whacked the joint with a lump hammer...

Popped straight out...

[grumpy2]

get one of these..

http://www.machinema...l-joint-remover

tighten it up and then if it still wont pop out hit the arm with two heavy hammers on opposite sides at the same time.

good enough to pop out ball joint on a landy and they only have one torque setting -FT ( that's not FAIRLY tight)

G

[Pooky]

You have knocked the locktabs down around the domed nuts right? Just checking...

I have read on here that some people don't even touch the ball joints when removing an engine. I can't remember exactly how it's done but might be worth a search...

[Mini Mad Drakeley]

you dont need to remove the ball joints, i just dropped the engine out on the subframe and then theres loadsa room to work, lift the engine slightly with an engine crane, remove the engine mounts and then you can basically move the engine from side to side and your then able to pull out one driveshaft and then the other, its very simple, i did it when i didnt have the ball joint splitter, if you dont have an engine crane just strip the engine as much as you can, taking off cylinder head etc and then it can be lifted with 2 people and mabye a 3rd to remove the driveshafts, but to remove the ball joints at the end just get one of the splitters that you wack with a hammer and it forces them apart, if that doesnt work, use a bigger hammer simples!

[Danny-T]

Finally sorted! All I had to do was cut the rubber caps out and used the g clamp splitter and they came out dead easy! Kinda makes sense as with the rubber there it was changing the angle of drive which must have just been pushing the joint against the side. Glad that 2 day job is done now, onto my next question which i'll put in a new topic...

[MRA]

For future reference.....

You don't need to split any ball joints to get the engine out of the car...
You don't need to split inner CV joints to get the engine out of the car...

With a little thought they come out real easy with a lot less stress and less possibility of bits falling off later

It is done thus.....

Remove the all the bits as you would normally do.....

DO NOT remove hubs etc......

DO remove engine mount bolts and get ready to lift the engine, at this point you will need either a CV releasing tool or a large lever.

NOTE! Left or Right is viewed from the drivers seat whilst seated.

lift the engine about 1" (25mm) and slide over twards the left hand side (radiator side), now "crack" the inner CV from the gearbox, you can now wriggle it free and drop it down under the gearbox.

Now push the engine unit towards the right hand side (clutch side) and "crack" the LHS inner CV from the gearbox, you can now wriggle it free and drop it down underneath......

It is now possible to lift the whole unit out as far as the split line (this is the line where the gasket joins the engine and gearbox) as far as the slam panel.... now disconnect the speedo cable

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 31 December 2010 - 05:38 PM.

[Danny-T]

Thanks for the info MRA, someone should make that info a sticky or something. I'm not too fussed though as I'm doing a complete strip down for the fun of it but priceless info nonetheless.

[ukcooper]

Same as Mra but we use a 3' pry bar as it got a nice angle at the end and remember to drop the oil first or it will get messy

[MRA]

Is your 3' pry bar a draper or similar with the "screwdriver" style handle on the other end ?

Yes I forgot to mention the oil

[ukcooper]

The bar, it posh snap-on one found down a scrap yard one day some years ago best find yet,
just has the right amount of bend on the last 1" and small enought to get in the gap to pry the pot out.

[Bramham89]

and then if it still wont pop out hit the arm with two heavy hammers on opposite sides at the same time.

This actually works. Like magic!

Edited by Bramham89, 01 January 2011 - 03:11 PM.