Running on
Started by
adam c
, Apr 20 2004 06:47 PM
21 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 April 2004 - 06:47 PM
OK - my mini has been running on for a bit now but have not bothered much about it as apparently its quite a common problem. Sometimes its does'nt do it at all but sometimes it goes on for ages. A mate of mine today said that it was because the ignition was too advanced but this is something i have never touched on a car so am just wondering; Is he right? Can it be fixed? Could i fix it? Will it be costing me power (just interested as it might give me more incentive to fix it!)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
p.s. also tempted to fit electronic ignition in the future - any info about this and fitting it would be great.
p.s. also tempted to fit electronic ignition in the future - any info about this and fitting it would be great.
#2
Posted 20 April 2004 - 07:46 PM
it is a common problem, there can be loads of reasons for run on, mine used to do it after i rebuilt my engine then stoped when i took it to the rollers, it only dioes every now and again now.
causes
ignition timing,
carbon build up
shape edges iside combustion chamer
theres a few more but its basically caused where theres something inside the combustion chamber hot enough to ignite the fuel mixture that still goes in after uv turned the ignition off.
if the car is set up correctly then u can get anti run on valves which came on the metros and later minis
causes
ignition timing,
carbon build up
shape edges iside combustion chamer
theres a few more but its basically caused where theres something inside the combustion chamber hot enough to ignite the fuel mixture that still goes in after uv turned the ignition off.
if the car is set up correctly then u can get anti run on valves which came on the metros and later minis
#3
Posted 20 April 2004 - 07:59 PM
Thanks. Is an anti run on valve a thing that on the butterfly in the carb or am i thinking of something else?? If i want to clean of the carbon build up am i right in thinking;
1. Remove ancillaries to enable me to remove head (this shouldn't be a problem)
2. Remove head
3. Block all of the oil holes to stop carbon dropping down them (with tape??)
4. Scrape carbon off top of pistons (with what??)
5. Do i then clean inside the head (how??)
6. Refit head and ancilleries with all new gaskets
Please tell me if this is the right procedure and whether this will be worth it?
Also how can i check the ignition timing and adjust it if necessary?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
1. Remove ancillaries to enable me to remove head (this shouldn't be a problem)
2. Remove head
3. Block all of the oil holes to stop carbon dropping down them (with tape??)
4. Scrape carbon off top of pistons (with what??)
5. Do i then clean inside the head (how??)
6. Refit head and ancilleries with all new gaskets
Please tell me if this is the right procedure and whether this will be worth it?
Also how can i check the ignition timing and adjust it if necessary?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#4
Posted 20 April 2004 - 08:20 PM
i wudnt do allt hat just yet, id first check ur ignition timing. for this u well need a strobe light and a haynes manual. as long as ur minis pritty std this should b no probs. also make sure ur mixture is ok.
do u do any long journeys, or ive the acar a good ragging every now and again as this usually cleans the carbon out.
do u do any long journeys, or ive the acar a good ragging every now and again as this usually cleans the carbon out.
#5
Posted 20 April 2004 - 08:30 PM
Cheers mate. Will invest in a timing light some time soon or try and borrow one. Thanks.
#6
Posted 20 April 2004 - 09:13 PM
To adjust the ignition timing you also need an revcounter or multimeter
To adjust the speed correct when setting the timimg and also to reset the idle speed correctly.
If you are adjusting the ignition timing, renew the contact breakers (ignition points) first. They only cost a couple of £.
Too high idle speed will also cause running on.
A run on valve or anti diesel valve. Is a valve that allows air into the inlet manifold as the engine is turned off.
Siggy
To adjust the speed correct when setting the timimg and also to reset the idle speed correctly.
If you are adjusting the ignition timing, renew the contact breakers (ignition points) first. They only cost a couple of £.
Too high idle speed will also cause running on.
A run on valve or anti diesel valve. Is a valve that allows air into the inlet manifold as the engine is turned off.
Siggy
#7
Posted 21 April 2004 - 05:28 PM
Right cheers mate.
Need to sort me points out anyway i think there slightly out, problem is that i've fitted spots so it makes it pain in the arse to get access to remove the grill! Am still looking at electronic ignition, could i just fit an ignitor for now and then fit a sports coil and better leads later (bit skint at the min)???
Need to sort me points out anyway i think there slightly out, problem is that i've fitted spots so it makes it pain in the arse to get access to remove the grill! Am still looking at electronic ignition, could i just fit an ignitor for now and then fit a sports coil and better leads later (bit skint at the min)???
#8
Posted 21 April 2004 - 06:07 PM
I hear you can get rid of carbon deposits by running your engine to a nice hot temp (not overheating, just not cold), and then get a window cleaning liquid sprayer, fill it up with water, and spray some water into the carb a couple of times with a few breaks in between.
That effectively steam-cleans the inside of your engine, removing carbom deposits from the bores and pistons.
Disclaimer: Never tried it, just heard from a lot of people that this is common practice..
P.S. Engine might stall if you spray too much
That effectively steam-cleans the inside of your engine, removing carbom deposits from the bores and pistons.
Disclaimer: Never tried it, just heard from a lot of people that this is common practice..
P.S. Engine might stall if you spray too much
#9
Posted 21 April 2004 - 06:13 PM
Never heard of that, don't think I would even try it
Siggy
Siggy
#10
Posted 21 April 2004 - 07:34 PM
i get rid of my carbon deposits by putting redex down the plug holes .start the engine up and don't stand near the exhaust also put some in the carb.
best done in a clear carpark as there is lots of smoke and we don't want to annoy the neighbours do we.
best done in a clear carpark as there is lots of smoke and we don't want to annoy the neighbours do we.
#11
Posted 21 April 2004 - 07:35 PM
Thanks..
If anyone wants to try that for me first please let me know how how you get on
If anyone wants to try that for me first please let me know how how you get on
#12
Posted 21 April 2004 - 07:38 PM
thats exactly what i thought siggy, but on another mini forum, they were saying how good it is to diconnect your vacuum pipe off the dizzy, put it in a bucket of water , and steam clean your chambers!
it seem odd that you go to so much trouble to stop water getting into your bores, and then inject it deliberately!
i woudn't do it myself, would rather give the thing a dose of redex or something similar. at least redex is meant to do that sort of thing!
it seem odd that you go to so much trouble to stop water getting into your bores, and then inject it deliberately!
i woudn't do it myself, would rather give the thing a dose of redex or something similar. at least redex is meant to do that sort of thing!
#13
Posted 21 April 2004 - 07:42 PM
it works honest .been doing that for years and always worked for me.
#14
Posted 21 April 2004 - 08:01 PM
Cheers min min might try that.
My last post was referring to the water thing not the redox one, think we were posting at the same time!!
My last post was referring to the water thing not the redox one, think we were posting at the same time!!
#15
Posted 21 April 2004 - 08:13 PM
always did the redex thing twice a year on my fully race 1100 and when i get my 1071 on the road i will do the same.doesn't half put some muck and smoke out though
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