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Rear Wheel Bearing Help!


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#1 russ84white

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 07:30 PM

Hi all,
I'm pretty new to mini's and currently rebuilding a new subframe for my restoration. Ive fixed in the radius arms and just wanted to change the wheel bearings. I removed the old ball type bearings and knocked out the old inner races, fitted the new inner races and dropped in the new taper bearings.
When i tightened up the hub nut just finger tight it was quite hard to move the hub. very stiff. I have had it all to bits a few times, tried different bearings (which were supposed to be for the other side!) and still the same, I've made sure the oil seal is in correctly and that the washer is on the right way but still very stiff, I havent even tried to tighten to correct torque setting as theres no chance the hub would move.
When fitting taper bearings to the rear do you remove the spacer out the hub for the old ball type bearings? Everything looked the same size before I fitted it.
Any help would be much appreciated! I've looked at other similar links but couldn't find one to answer my question.
cheers
Russ

#2 charie t

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 08:26 PM

Hi all,
I'm pretty new to mini's and currently rebuilding a new subframe for my restoration. Ive fixed in the radius arms and just wanted to change the wheel bearings. I removed the old ball type bearings and knocked out the old inner races, fitted the new inner races and dropped in the new taper bearings.
When i tightened up the hub nut just finger tight it was quite hard to move the hub. very stiff. I have had it all to bits a few times, tried different bearings (which were supposed to be for the other side!) and still the same, I've made sure the oil seal is in correctly and that the washer is on the right way but still very stiff, I havent even tried to tighten to correct torque setting as theres no chance the hub would move.
When fitting taper bearings to the rear do you remove the spacer out the hub for the old ball type bearings? Everything looked the same size before I fitted it.
Any help would be much appreciated! I've looked at other similar links but couldn't find one to answer my question.
cheers
Russ



#3 charie t

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 08:29 PM

Hi all,
I'm pretty new to mini's and currently rebuilding a new subframe for my restoration. Ive fixed in the radius arms and just wanted to change the wheel bearings. I removed the old ball type bearings and knocked out the old inner races, fitted the new inner races and dropped in the new taper bearings.
When i tightened up the hub nut just finger tight it was quite hard to move the hub. very stiff. I have had it all to bits a few times, tried different bearings (which were supposed to be for the other side!) and still the same, I've made sure the oil seal is in correctly and that the washer is on the right way but still very stiff, I havent even tried to tighten to correct torque setting as theres no chance the hub would move.
When fitting taper bearings to the rear do you remove the spacer out the hub for the old ball type bearings? Everything looked the same size before I fitted it.
Any help would be much appreciated! I've looked at other similar links but couldn't find one to answer my question.
cheers
Russ

Rear wheel bearings don't get tightened up, only the play is taken out of them.
Being a thick <<<>>> i cant exactly describe how to check correct adjustment on here, but the play in the wheel will only just be taken up when the nut is turned, and the wheel will still spin freely

#4 Dan

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 08:46 PM

Because it's a taper bearing now until it's torqued up properly, the hub isn't pulled into the proper place on the stub axle. So the oil seal will be rubbing on the bearing race. Finish installing it and check again.

#5 russ84white

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 08:46 PM

that did cross my mind but its the hub nut that needs tightening, you can't really leave that just a bit more than hand tight can you?

#6 charie t

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 08:51 PM

that did cross my mind but its the hub nut that needs tightening, you can't really leave that just a bit more than hand tight can you?

Trailers done it for years as have mini's. The split pin stops the nut undoing

#7 bmcecosse

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 10:04 PM

The taper bearings MUST have a spacer between the races - and the nut is tightened up TIGHT. If the bearing is then loose - the spacer is too thick - and if the bearing is tight the spacer is too thin........

#8 russ84white

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 10:38 PM

the spacer is the original from the old ball type bearings, there wasn't another supplied so I thought it must need to stay in. I'll have to just double check that the old races and the new ones are the same depth.

#9 bmcecosse

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 10:54 PM

Probably not..... the kits without spacer are designed to replace existing taper bearings.........

#10 russ84white

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:03 PM

Probably not..... the kits without spacer are designed to replace existing taper bearings.........


Thats what I thought, I'm doing something wrong then, when I nip the hub nut up it wont move at all, both races are tight up against the spacer aswell, no gaps.

#11 bmcecosse

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:08 PM

I think you have the wrong thickness of spacer......

#12 charie t

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:10 PM

Probably not..... the kits without spacer are designed to replace existing taper bearings.........


Thats what I thought, I'm doing something wrong then, when I nip the hub nut up it wont move at all, both races are tight up against the spacer aswell, no gaps.

front/rear mix up here i think

#13 russ84white

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:18 PM

Its the rear bearings, does that mean the hub needs a spacer?

#14 Cooperman

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:25 PM

To fit taper roller rear bearings, there has to be a spacer appropriate to the bearings. The original one for the ball bearings may not be thick enough.
Then tighten the nut up tight and fit the split pin. As 'bmc...'says, too stiff and the spacer is too thin, too slack and the spacer is too thick. It's easy to correct if slightly too thick - just linish a bit off the spacer. If too thin, you need a thicker spacer.

#15 russ84white

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:32 PM

To fit taper roller rear bearings, there has to be a spacer appropriate to the bearings. The original one for the ball bearings may not be thick enough.
Then tighten the nut up tight and fit the split pin. As 'bmc...'says, too stiff and the spacer is too thin, too slack and the spacer is too thick. It's easy to correct if slightly too thick - just linish a bit off the spacer. If too thin, you need a thicker spacer.


Any ideas where I could get a thicker spacer from?




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