13 replies to this topic

[DMC]

Hello all,

I am trying to reconnect my brake lines after installing Kad front calipers and goodridge braided steel hoses and cannot figure out what the correct sequence of hardware is for the driver side banjo union. I tried installing with the smaller nut supplied with the braided line and the union will not tighten up, the bolt with the hole for hydro fluid bottoms out before tightening up with the union. I tried the old original larger nut and the union leaks. I have included a pic of the hardware I have, do I need to get a different bolt to fit the goodridge hose?

Any help is greatly appreciated, this is keeping me from getting my girl on the road. If there is a kit that I can swap in to change out all this hardware at once that would be great.


Thanks!

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[ado15]

The nut doesn't affect it. The large copper washer goes on the bolt first, then your 2 way banjo (not shown), then the smaller washer should bear on the top of the hose. The nut is simply to retain the hose to the subframe. The other small washer is for the caliper end of the hose.

If this is how you have it assembled, there is a problem with the hose. The bolt you have should work with them.

Edited by ado15, 19 January 2011 - 06:18 PM.

[bubblebuster]

i had the same problem with mine, the problem is that the banjo bolt bottoms in the hose, to cure it i cut some threads off the banjo bolt.

[DMC]

The nut doesn't affect it. The large copper washer goes on the bolt first, then your 2 way banjo (not shown), then the smaller washer should bear on the top of the hose. The nut is simply to retain the hose to the subframe. The other small washer is for the caliper end of the hose.

If this is how you have it assembled, there is a problem with the hose. The bolt you have should work with them.

Thank for your quick reply!

Maybe I should have kept tightening, but when I "sandwiched" the two way banjo with the copper washers and tightened, the bolt stopped before everything snugged up. As if the hose was a tad not deep enough to take the bolt.

[ado15]

i had the same problem with mine, the problem is that the banjo bolt bottoms in the hose, to cure it i cut some threads off the banjo bolt.

Yeah, that'll do it, but it's the hoses that are at fault. However, if you choose to talk to Goodridge about it..... good luck is all I can say!

[ado15]

Maybe I should have kept tightening, but when I "sandwiched" the two way banjo with the copper washers and tightened, the bolt stopped before everything snugged up. As if the hose was a tad not deep enough to take the bolt.

You did exactly the right thing in stopping. And your diagnosis is correct. To get the job done, shorten the banjo bolt a little as suggested or add an extra copper washer under the two way banjo.

[charie t]

Just check that the other one has not got a deeper set of threads. I came to this problem too and shortened banjo bolt but didn't bother to check

[DMC]

Just check that the other one has not got a deeper set of threads. I came to this problem too and shortened banjo bolt but didn't bother to check

Thanks for the input all, I am glad I was not imagining things hehe.

[Dan]

You can't just hack the end off of a banjo bolt and hope it will still perform properly. Its end is a brake fitting taper designed to seal into the seat in the hose. To shorten it properly you would have to take it down on a lathe or mill to preserve the angle. How old is the car? I would suggest buying a newer banjo fitting if the car is very old as a new one may be thicker.

[ado15]

You can't just hack the end off of a banjo bolt and hope it will still perform properly. Its end is a brake fitting taper designed to seal into the seat in the hose. To shorten it properly you would have to take it down on a lathe or mill to preserve the angle.

No it's not. They are all face sealing with copper washers.

How old is the car? I would suggest buying a newer banjo fitting if the car is very old as a new one may be thicker.

The two way banjo remained the same part number throughout it's life to my knowledge. So there shouldn't be any different thicknesses...... however, we are talking about BL here!!

[[email protected]]

Our hoses are now all made to suit the bolt length, not sure why Goodridge got that so wrong, but there we go. We have spoken to our supplier on this at lenght, and the spec for ours at least has changed

[ado15]

Our hoses are now all made to suit the bolt length, not sure why Goodridge got that so wrong, but there we go. We have spoken to our supplier on this at lenght, and the spec for ours at least has changed

Hi Simon

Have you had the other end corrected too? The Goodridge ones always had a JIC into the caliper which should be a face seal for a copper washer. On talking to them, they insisted that it should be JIC!

The other issue we found was the female thread in the top was too deep for the standard tube nut and pipe flare.... or, at least, it was right on the limit. This, of course, contradicts the banjo bolt issue, so it seems there are different specs around with different issues.

Edited by ado15, 20 January 2011 - 10:37 AM.

[DMC]

Our hoses are now all made to suit the bolt length, not sure why Goodridge got that so wrong, but there we go. We have spoken to our supplier on this at lenght, and the spec for ours at least has changed

SInce when have the hoses been changed? I purchased my set from minispares about a year ago....

[SolarB]

............the union will not tighten up, the bolt with the hole for hydro fluid bottoms out before tightening up with the union.

i had the same problem with mine, the problem is that the banjo bolt bottoms in the hose, to cure it i cut some threads off the banjo bolt.

............I came to this problem too and shortened banjo bolt but didn't bother to check

I came across the same problem Tuesday night with a set of Goodridge hoses on a '71 car.