3 replies to this topic

[Notay]

Gear Lever position is too far back - cannot engage 2nd or 4th
Model: 1275 Mini Sprite
Year: 1994
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

Hi - I had to change my rod eye socket, the part that the bottom ball of the gear lever sits in to control the rod selector, since this had worn. I removed the whole gear lever housing, steady bar and selector shaft. Tried to punch out the roll pins holding the rod eye to the selector shaft but the rod eye snapped - so bought a second hand gear lever housing which came with the selector shaft, rod eye and steady bar. It did not come with the rod change eye bolt sleeve coupling which is used to attach the selector shaft to the gearbox housing but I just took it off my old one and added it to the new one.

I have put the gear lever housing in place, tightened the steady bar etc. but notice that neutral position is too far back in the cabin and hence the rod eye is too far forward in the gearbox housing which does not allow me to select 2nd or 4th. I cannot figure out where I have gone wrong but think it is something to do with the selector shaft position. The coupling seems to be symmetrical so putting it in the wrong way is not possible (i think). I have screwed the reverse switch far out to minimise this being a problem to selecting gears.

Anyone have any ideas where I might have just gone wrong?


Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem? No

[Guess-Works.com]

Yes, later 1300 mini's then rod change mechanism was longer, because the engine was moved forward slightly, sounds like you have the steady bar from the original selector mechanism and the rod from the earlier version, therefore the gear lever will appear to be slanted backward.

[Notay]

Yes, later 1300 mini's then rod change mechanism was longer, because the engine was moved forward slightly, sounds like you have the steady bar from the original selector mechanism and the rod from the earlier version, therefore the gear lever will appear to be slanted backward.

Hi Guess-works - many thanks for your reply. It makes sense because I remember using the original steady shaft since I could not remove it because the exhaust manifold was in the way of the bolt holding it in place to the gearbox so just used the new housing with the selector shaft that camne with it.

Since you are a gearbox pioneer do you have any techniques that you know of to remove the roll pins at the rod eye socket connected to the selector shaft without breaking/snapping the alloy rod eye socket? Many thanks in advance.

[Guess-Works.com]

Don't usually fiddle with that end of the selector, however all I can suggest is get the right size punch ( preferably with a nipple )

I got a Sealey set recently to try them out and they seem reasonable quality....

http://www.sealey.co...uiredresults=16