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Filling Holes In The Body Work


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#1 mini.cooper998

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:37 PM

hi all,

im about to start sanding and prepping for the respray but have several small holes in the body sides.

the car previously had miglia arches on it and the brackets had been rivited in 4 places around the arches, each bracket had 2 rivets

you can just see two of the rivets in the picture.

ive ssince drilled the rivets all out but thats left 8 x 4mm holes around each body side.

question ive got is will they just fill with body filler or do i need to do something else to them first

cheers for your advice all

Andy

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#2 sonikk4

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:42 PM

Give each hole a clean up to make sure there is no rust then fill with weld, grind back flush, skim of filler then prime and paint.

#3 msl275

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:44 PM

cover holes with fibreglass the paste type preferebly sand down smooth then over top with filler that way its goner cover holes for defo

#4 TopCatCustom

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:07 PM

The only good way is to weld them, which is actually really easy! Just sand over them for a few mm around to go back to bare metal, pop a drill bit through the hole almost the same size to clean the hole itself, then with 2 or 3 tacks you should fill the hole easily. Sand the weld back flush and a tiny skim of filler and or filler primer should have them perfect :)

If you just fill or fibreglass over them then sand back, you just end up with a tiny disk of filler/glass left in the hole which can potentially just fall out.

#5 custard

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:17 PM

So glad this was asked was my next question, does copper behind the weld help when filling it up ?

#6 TopCatCustom

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:23 PM

If you have your welder set up right you shouldn't need it, I have never used it myself but heard it is handy- I dont see why it wouldn't be a good thing!

#7 mini.cooper998

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:38 PM

cheers for the replys, will weld them all up and grind them back.

will body filler cover up any pin prick holes left in the welds or does everything need to be full of weld

cheers

Andy

#8 msl275

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:43 PM

The only good way is to weld them, which is actually really easy! Just sand over them for a few mm around to go back to bare metal, pop a drill bit through the hole almost the same size to clean the hole itself, then with 2 or 3 tacks you should fill the hole easily. Sand the weld back flush and a tiny skim of filler and or filler primer should have them perfect :)

If you just fill or fibreglass over them then sand back, you just end up with a tiny disk of filler/glass left in the hole which can potentially just fall out.

not if its done right as in dont sand down too far then you fill over top mind ya ive only been in body job 20yrs what do i know either way take ya pick both methods work

#9 sonikk4

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:45 PM

A skim of filler will cover any pin pricks however shine a light behind each weld to make sure they are filled with weld. Then at least you will know there is no potential problems later on.

#10 TopCatCustom

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:45 PM

Have faith- there won't be any pin pricks! Shouldn't imagine it is too crucial so dont worry about it too much :)

#11 sonikk4

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:48 PM

So glad this was asked was my next question, does copper behind the weld help when filling it up ?


By using a piece of copper behind the weld helps to decrease any distortion caused by heat build up. The copper absorbs heat quicker than steel.

#12 charie t

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:14 PM

So glad this was asked was my next question, does copper behind the weld help when filling it up ?


By using a piece of copper behind the weld helps to decrease any distortion caused by heat build up. The copper absorbs heat quicker than steel.

Just if you use a 1p or 2p make sure its older one, as the new coins are not copper, only a thin covering

#13 sonikk4

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:16 PM

Use a section of copper heating pipe split down the middle and then beaten flat.




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