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A power horse 1293 lump


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#1 Dog

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 05:51 PM

Hiya all
Gone off the idea of a buggy now, and I am going for a Miglia looking Mini! :)

But yet again, been thinking about what lump to put into it, as I don't fancy faffing about with bulkhead cutting, I am going for a 1293 lump carb.

Below I am going to list everything I want to use in/with the engine, I would like you guys to coment on what bits will be great, and what bits you would change. I am not after all out power, as I want realiablity too! but I do want something a bit pokey! I am also going for the sounds, so want something to be able to sound as grunty as a wild bore!

My engine spec (from top to bottom);

Single 1.75" SU (HIF44 maybe) and K&N filter
Maniflow inlet manifold
1.5:1 roller rockers
Stage 2* unleaded head
Rebored 1293 block - MG block would be good so I could use the extra waterways
Forged pistons
GT rods
Wedged and X-drilled crank*
Swiftune SW5 cam*
Std oil pump*
Duplex timing chain set
SC drop gears
Std Fuel pump*
a GuessWorks SC/CR box, with a X-pin diff and a Final Drive of 3.44
The new phase 2 maniflow LCB
A C/E S/S Maniflow exhurst system 3" bore*
Cooled by a 4 core rad*
KAD Quickshift system

Need help with choosing a;
Clutch
Dizzy
Needle for the carb

Where I have put a * this donates to what else do you think would be suited, for example, I said a stage 2 head, but a stage 3 head might be better!

Thanks for your input :)

#2 Ollie180

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 06:05 PM

Gone off the idea of a buggy now, and I am going for a Miglia looking Mini! :)

thats diddnt last long :) and you was goign on how fast it was goign to be and what wheels to have :tongue:

good luck with your new project :cheese:

#3 Dog

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 06:07 PM

The reason we decided not go for the buggy, is because;

It'll cost £150 for the SVA test - if its passes first time
Then we'll have to get it registered
Then the price of the frame and other bits

In total, it'll cost alot more, than a track day Mini!
Least with a Track day mini, it'll be easier to insure, and tax, and we don't have to worry about a SVA test etc.
Also the added benifit of glass, so we will be able to go to HFT shoots in the Mini and still be in a degree of comfert, just won't be able to hear anything afterwords due to the SC/CR gears and sports exhurst, it all gets a bit noisey!

Hardest part on this build is fitting the rollcage.
Its going to be mega light too, it only has two seats, the clocks in the dash, and rollcage, thats all that is going to be inside the mini!

#4 The Matt

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 04:37 PM

Clutch:

Go for a Pre-verto unit, you can get alot more 'options' for it. Get a lightened and balanced Pre-verto flywheel and back plate, a decent clutch plate and a decent diaphragm.

Dizzy:

I reckon an Aldon yellow would be good.
But I have also heard that the Pertronix (spelling??) are good too.
Go for electronic ignition conversion either way!

Needle:

The needle for the carb would be best recommended by a specialist (and that aint me)!!!!

Other than that it sounds like a reasonable fast road specification.

#5 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 04:47 PM

Well after a banter with a few other Mini peeps, a SC/CR isn't going to suited with the cam.

So going for;
Complete rebuilt box, by our own GuessWorks :)
Stage 3 head
SW10 cam
1.5:1 Rockers
TransX Diff
3.44 Final Drive
Lighten flywheels and back plate
std rods
std fuel/oil pump

As the lump I have got is unknowen age/millage I am going to strip it, and get the box off the John, and get a short engine from Morspeed, and build ontop of that basically.

#6 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 04:51 PM

1293-1340cc  FAST ROAD

Freshly bored and honed to +020-030-040 or 060", The block is then chemicaly cleaned, Machined for a steel center strap, Re-surfaced and fitted with new cam bearings, Crankshaft is ground to next size with new bearings, Conrods are fitted with new bolts, O.E pistons and rings, Supplied with new Duplex timing gears, Engine is then Fully Balanced and supplied with a lightened flywheel. Performance cam of your choice, High grade Followers and H/C oil pump. The engine is then assembled by Morspeed along with the cam timing.

After assembley the engine is painted in your choice of colour and fitted with new core-plugs, Timing cover and damper. 

PRICE 1293-1340cc £600.00 EXCH

This is the short engine I am going to get from Morspeed, but surplly the SW10 cam :)

#7 The Matt

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 04:52 PM

the SC/CR isn't suited to the cam?

How do you mean?

#8 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 05:31 PM

Well as the I was going to use a SW5, they are designed to give a large powerband, with a CR box, by the time I get full grunt, I would have to change gear...

Whereas with a std ratio box, I can stay in gear longer, plus it will be more realiable!

This what I have been told...

#9 Jammy

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 05:35 PM

I'll let Guessworks explain this better than me, but in short SC/CR boxes aren't any less reliable, and your change of gear is determined by your peak power of the cam and your rev limit, not really much to do with the box.

#10 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 05:42 PM

I'll let Guessworks explain this better than me, but in short SC/CR boxes aren't any less reliable, and your change of gear is determined by your peak power of the cam and your rev limit, not really much to do with the box.

Yea I have spoken to John.
And a few peeps on Minifty...

I would LOVE SC gears.. I love to sound of the whining!

#11 The Matt

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 05:42 PM

so you are saying that because you will have a camshaft with a reasonably long power band, a close ratio box won't suit? I can sort of see the logic, that you would maybe lose some of the benefit of having a good power band. But diff ratios could also come into play there. It really does depend on how you want to drive it and what sort of 'average driving speed' you use.

You can get all sorts of gear ratio combinations though and a SC/CR box is a method of getting the power down and the driveability right (and as Jammy said, if done properly, no less reliable than a normal box).

You could maybe look at a clubman SC gear kit, or even a standard ratio SC gear kit (I think Minispares do both). :wink:

#12 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 05:45 PM

This is my thread on minifity http://www.minifinit...ewtopic&t=32952
Maybe that'll clear a bit up

#13 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 06:18 PM

Single 1.75" SU (HIF44 maybe) and K&N filter
Maniflow inlet manifold
1.5:1 roller rockers
Stage 3 unleaded head
Rebored 1293 block
Cast pistons
Std rods
regound crank to nest size
Swiftune SW10 cam
Std oil pump
Duplex timing chain set
std drops
Std Fuel pump
GuessWorks rebuilt gearbox, with a TransX diff and a Final Drive of 3.44
The new phase 2 maniflow LCB
A C/E S/S Maniflow exhurst system 1.75 bore and a 2" tail pipe
Cooled by a 4 core rad
KAD Quickshift system

#14 The Matt

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 06:22 PM

have you got a car to put it in yet? Or are you starting from scratch?

Also, do you know how much lift the SW10 gives at the valves, you may need to look at uprating the springs to prevent 'crushing'

#15 Dog

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 06:27 PM

Tis why I am lookin at a stage 3 head... they normally come with uprated springs anwways... right???
Would a SW5 be better then?

Almost starting from scrach, got an offer on a 1275, W reg Mini, but its been stood for yonks!




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