
How To Remove Sheared Off Bleed Nipples?
Started by
designermatt
, Feb 02 2011 08:48 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 02 February 2011 - 08:48 PM
the nipples on my satandard 2 pot callipers have boh been sheard off by the preivous owner, and there is about 1 mm of thread stiking out on each one, i have been spraying Wd-40 on them for a while but how o i get them out ?
i was thinking hammer and fine chisel to knock them loose bu dont know if his will work yet??
and i dont want to drill them out as a last resort
i was thinking hammer and fine chisel to knock them loose bu dont know if his will work yet??
and i dont want to drill them out as a last resort
#2
Posted 02 February 2011 - 08:57 PM
The only way is to get them off the car and in a vice, preferably stripped and heat them up, use a releasing fluid ( not WD40 ) and very gently try to ease out with a good quality easi-out.
What you have to remember is brake fluid is hygroscopic, therefore bits will rust...
What you have to remember is brake fluid is hygroscopic, therefore bits will rust...
#3
Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:10 PM
well i use the car everyday so cant really take them off and rebuild them , but i mite try applying some heat as a last resort to free them off
#4
Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:13 PM
You will need to drill them - and could try an easy-out, but if it snaps off in the nipple (and they are very fragile) you are then really stuck!
Edited by bmcecosse, 02 February 2011 - 10:13 PM.
#5
Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:17 PM
I really, really hate Easy-Outs. As John said, if you must use them, buy quality ones and use the largest one possible for the task at hand. They are inherently brittle because they are so hard. The last thing you want to do is break an Easy-Out off in anything.
Rather than the Easy-Out, and since you cannot easily work on the calipers on the bench, look for a set of Left-Hand drill bits. Use them in a reversible drill motor in progressively larger diameters until the bit catches in what's left of the nipple and backs it out of the tapped hole. Penetrating oil is still needed. It should go without saying that you should have replacement bleed nipples at hand to replace the damaged ones. I always put anti-seize compound on the nipples when I install them. The very tip of the nipple is the only surface exposed to brake fluid so keeping the anti-seize on the nipple threads is safe and good insurance.
Rather than the Easy-Out, and since you cannot easily work on the calipers on the bench, look for a set of Left-Hand drill bits. Use them in a reversible drill motor in progressively larger diameters until the bit catches in what's left of the nipple and backs it out of the tapped hole. Penetrating oil is still needed. It should go without saying that you should have replacement bleed nipples at hand to replace the damaged ones. I always put anti-seize compound on the nipples when I install them. The very tip of the nipple is the only surface exposed to brake fluid so keeping the anti-seize on the nipple threads is safe and good insurance.
#6
Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:23 PM
Drilling out as above is going to be the way..... but do have a tap ready to clean out the threads before trying to fit a new nipple. 3/8" UNF.
#7
Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:36 PM
i sit a nut on top and weld through the nut on to the bleed nipple works every time
#8
Posted 02 February 2011 - 10:40 PM
gonna try heat and maybe get some smal mole grips on and slowly turn , infact i will take some pics wen i do it.
#9
Posted 02 February 2011 - 11:39 PM
depends how stuck they are, heard of people hammering torx bits into the end and being able to undo them, but again risk snapping the bit in the end
#10
Posted 03 February 2011 - 12:25 AM
Machine shop, they'll charge more if you start getting things like drillbits and easy-outs stick in there too.
#11
Posted 14 May 2011 - 12:18 PM
I've just done this....snapped a bleed nipple then snapped an easy out in there too! Any one recommend a machine shop around Derby/Birmingham/Walsall?
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