16 replies to this topic

[Sagey]

~~~~~Please delete this text before posting the topic~~~~~~
Please give your topic a title that quickly describes your problem. Just putting 'Help my Mini doesn't work' is useless to anyone trying to help.
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Model: jet black 1275 metro lump
Year: 1988
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):
Basically i think ive got a lucus 59d dizzy, one with a post where the contact points are.
Now ive got an electronic conversion witch replaces the points. Problem or query is :
In the ibstructions it says i might have to renove this post(easily done)
How do i do this?
Or shall i require a specific one if possible?

Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem?
Metro 1275 1988 which come without dizzy

Any info greatly appreciatedr

[Ethel]

You could drill or dremel it off. Best to remove the base plate from the dizzy to avoid swarf. without the pin it pretty much becomes a type 45, so you can still revert to points if needed GCS118 or even GCS124

[Matrix]

Which electronic ignition kit are you using?

[Sagey]

Which electronic ignition kit are you using?

Accu spark, 45d same as the brit part replacements, cant link as ebay not working on my phone.

[Sagey]

bump

[Timty]

I've got exactly the same part to fit to my 59d dizzy and as ethel said i'm going to remove the base plate and either drill it out from the other side or saw it off then refit! well thats the plan anyway.

Edited by Timty, 05 February 2011 - 12:02 AM.

[stevede]

I fitted the same one.

If you are gentle with a pair of long nose pliers you can wiggle the pin and it will come away. Be careful not to bend the plate.

The biggest problem I had was the original screw wasn't long enough to hold the unit in place and I had to remove the base plate, drill and tap the hole and use a longer screw. (couldn't find one long enough in correct thread)

http://www.theminifo...x...5702&st=465

Be prepared for the timing to be way out when you try and start the car. But once set, the difference is noticable and in my case, improved the driveability quite a bit.

Drop me a PM if stuck.

Regards

Steve

[Sagey]

Thanks for that info seems i better check fitting before i change. Just dont want to be in a situation where i break it and have to buy anthougher dizzy. I havent really done timing before but watch slark racing do mine. Wil it be wayy out? I thaught it was a case of put in and go like a general service. Well ill see thursday when i plan to do it. And post back. Top notch rebuild thread though...

[stevede]

Thanks for that info seems i better check fitting before i change. Just dont want to be in a situation where i break it and have to buy anthougher dizzy. I havent really done timing before but watch slark racing do mine. Wil it be wayy out? I thaught it was a case of put in and go like a general service. Well ill see thursday when i plan to do it. And post back. Top notch rebuild thread though...

My timing was quite a way out and similar threads using the same part have said the same. Nothing more serious needed though than re-setting the timing with a strobe light.

One other point that has just struck me, has your car a ballast coil system, usually indicated by 2 wires (one pink/white) on the +'ve of the coil. If so, a little more mdification may be needed. I bought the kit with the module and a new 12v coil.

[Ethel]

If you've had yours set up on a rolling road check the timing with a strobe & rev counter before you fit the leccy kit so you can set it up the same after. You might find it goes a little bit better with a degree or two less advance if you also increase the spark plug gap by 5-10thou.

[Sagey]

ok trying to get head around the last post.
yes been set up on rolling road, timing was spot on anyway. so how would i get this back to the exact same? ( sorry kind of new to me )
ive got new plugs for the metro engine, which are pre set. so if i use these then set timing then change gap or change gap from start?
what benefit will this bring?

[Sagey]

Thanks for that info seems i better check fitting before i change. Just dont want to be in a situation where i break it and have to buy anthougher dizzy. I havent really done timing before but watch slark racing do mine. Wil it be wayy out? I thaught it was a case of put in and go like a general service. Well ill see thursday when i plan to do it. And post back. Top notch rebuild thread though...

My timing was quite a way out and similar threads using the same part have said the same. Nothing more serious needed though than re-setting the timing with a strobe light.

One other point that has just struck me, has your car a ballast coil system, usually indicated by 2 wires (one pink/white) on the +'ve of the coil. If so, a little more mdification may be needed. I bought the kit with the module and a new 12v coil.

i think i have ballast, what different will this make?
hmm just seen the pge n your project, what was you problem with the vacuum advance? now im getting confused haha

[Sagey]

this is a picture of my dizzy.


just to confirm this is a 59d and as you can tell it needs servicing haha

[stevede]

Ethel was suggesting that you take a note of your timing setting before upgrading in case it was optimised (set different to standard) after your rolling road session. That way after the upgrade, you can set the timing back exact as it was when tuned.

If you definately have ballast, then you need to supply the module with a fresh, ignition controlled 12v supply. The feed from the coil on a ballast system is ony 9v. They also advise upgrading the coil to a 12v one. (if you do this, use the same 12v ignition controlled feed and disconnect the existing +'ve wiring from the coil. Accuspark have a FAQ on their web page which gives all the details.

Re my vacuum advance, simple, I forgot to disconnect it when setting the timing with a strobe which gave me a false reading.

As before, if not sure, ask.

Regards

Steve

[Sagey]

Ethel was suggesting that you take a note of your timing setting before upgrading in case it was optimised (set different to standard) after your rolling road session. That way after the upgrade, you can set the timing back exact as it was when tuned.

If you definately have ballast, then you need to supply the module with a fresh, ignition controlled 12v supply. The feed from the coil on a ballast system is ony 9v. They also advise upgrading the coil to a 12v one. (if you do this, use the same 12v ignition controlled feed and disconnect the existing +'ve wiring from the coil. Accuspark have a FAQ on their web page which gives all the details.

Re my vacuum advance, simple, I forgot to disconnect it when setting the timing with a strobe which gave me a false reading.

As before, if not sure, ask.

Regards

Steve

Ahh that explains it all ) totally get it now.
Thanks for the great information