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Help With Sheared Subframe Bolt?


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#1 BangersandMash!

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 10:49 AM

Hi does anyone have any easy way of removing a sheared subframe bolt?It is stuck in the panel where the rear subframe bolts on to, behind the drivers side outer sill. This one has nothing to grab hold of with a stud extractor, and I don't really want to drill it out .......yet!
Thanks

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#2 Dan

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:42 AM

You'll have to drill it really. Or spray it with penetrant (NOT WD40) every day for a week and try an E-Z out which means less drilling but they tend not to work. Or try welding something to the end of it,which will be tricky.

You seem to have put a cut in the end of the sill, presumably for some repairs. Can you not grab the back of it while the sill is open and wind it the other way?

#3 nicksuth

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:51 AM

Don't use an "Eezi-out" as if it brakes it will be a nightmare to remove !!

I had similar problem with mine and used a left handed drill bit (not a joke, you can buy them) which drill anti-clockwise so action of drill is same as removal direction of the thread - you obviously need a reversible drill to use these

PS - once you have removed it I recommend re-tapping the thread to clean up and using stainless steel replacement bolts !!

#4 samsfern

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:54 AM

id try an easy out first, just make sure you drill dead in the centre of the stud. If the easy out doesnt work, then you might get away with drilling it to 17/64 (if i remember correctly) then tapping it out to 5/16unf. Or failing that, im afraid the only way would be to cut the nut out, make a new bit of metal up with a nut welded on the inside, then weld the said bit of metal in.

#5 andy pandy

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:00 PM

if you weld a nut onto bolt, the heat may help when undoing bolt,

#6 Ivor Badger

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:26 PM

Don't use an easy out. They are really hard and you can't do anything with them after they have spread the broken bolt and siezed it completely. If anything is tight enough to sieze and break and a file tang won't turn it, then an easy out will never move it.

The plate the bolt is broken in is accessable inside the car. Take the rear bin trim out and you will see the top end of the inner sill. split off the rear end and that will let you into the plate. Remove the plate with the chisel and then you can deal with it. Making a new one out of a bit of steel bar is often easiest. Pop the new/repair back in. Hold it there while someone puts the bolts in. Then tack the top sill plate back on. It was only tacked in the first place.

#7 russ84white

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:33 PM

I had the same problem, I managed to weld a nut on the end and use that to remove it, the heat seemed to help!

#8 superman

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:59 PM

Hi i tried all of the above but no use, i ended up cutting out the section with an angle grinder cutting the nut off the back, welding on a replacement and then welding the original section back in its place, new bolts and copper grease fixed

#9 oldman

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 02:01 PM

Hi
Had the same problem tried all of the above.
In the end I went with superman, don't think
I would muck about again.
Cheers
John

#10 BangersandMash!

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 05:14 PM

Thanks guys! For now I haven't rushed into it. I am going to spray it with penetrating oil for a week and tack a bolt on to it, if it doesn't work I shall go with Supermans post, plenty of things to do in the meantime.
Thanks again!




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