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Almost There...but Won't Start - No Spark


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#1 Verbaliser

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 09:33 PM

Hi,

Just finished fitting my eaton kit for the third time. I hoped I had sorted all the issues but a new one has emerged - no spark from the coil!

I wondered if I had my leads on in the wrong order but several topics on the forum have confirmed that I have it correct.

I have a standard coil with one white wire going to '+' side and two white and black wires going to the '-' side. Also, I have Lumenition Magnetronic electronic ignition which has two wires coming from the module - red goes to '+' and black goes to '-'. My HT leads are new performance silicone, fairly new plugs (BP7es) - although slightly blackened, and the dizzy cap is brand new.

When I turn the car over it simply won't fire up. Took out plug 1 and rested on the block - no spark. Took out the king lead from the dizzy and rested on the block - no spark. Put a volt meter across the coil and getting 11.5 volts so I'm definately getting power.

Not really sure what else to check, or what it could be.

This hopefully is all that needs sorting before my third trip to the rollers...I'm very frustrated as the ignition system was working fine three months ago.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

#2 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 09:43 PM

[quote name='Verbaliser' date='Mar 5 2011, 09:33 PM' post='2071254']
Hi,

Just finished fitting my eaton kit for the third time. I hoped I had sorted all the issues but a new one has emerged - no spark from the coil!

I wondered if I had my leads on in the wrong order but several topics on the forum have confirmed that I have it correct.

I have a standard coil with one white wire going to '+' side and two white and black wires going to the '-' side. Also, I have Lumenition Magnetronic electronic ignition which has two wires coming from the module - red goes to '+' and black goes to '-'. My HT leads are new performance silicone, fairly new plugs (BP7es) - although slightly blackened, and the dizzy cap is brand new.

When I turn the car over it simply won't fire up. Took out plug 1 and rested on the block - no spark. Took out the king lead from the dizzy and rested on the block - no spark. Put a volt meter across the coil and getting 11.5 volts so I'm definately getting power.



without seeing it it can be difficult.

back to basics is the best way

is it earthed properly
try a new coil
try a new king ht lead.

if you are in the aa and have home start call them. they can test lots of things. they have never let me down

#3 Verbaliser

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 07:21 PM

I found the instructions to my electronic ignition module so I am going to test that it is working properly. It may be I need a new module. Anyone else fried a module because they connected the red and black wires the wrong way round? I thought they were fairly hardy, but the onyl thing left to check / change.

#4 Verbaliser

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 10:08 AM

Can anyone tell me what the two black and White wires are coming off the -ve side of the coil?

#5 Sleepy Stu

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 05:45 PM

Can anyone tell me what the two black and White wires are coming off the -ve side of the coil?


Someone correct me if im wrong but I belive one goes to the distributor and the other goes to the rev counter!

#6 Verbaliser

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 06:37 PM

I dont have a tacho fitted (yet) and the distributor is served by the red and black wires for the electronic module. Should I be connecting one end of the black/white wire to the distributor as well?

#7 Verbaliser

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 09:03 PM

Ok so the two black/White wires may well be for the tacho and distributor, but because of the electronic ignition and no tacho, I believe you don't need to attach these to the -ve side; totally redundant.

I think my no spark problem is down to a fried electronic module. One on order so fingers crossed!

#8 Verbaliser

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 07:30 PM

Hurray! I changed the Lumenition module and there was a very welcome fat spark! It fired up first time. Rolling road on Thursday. I'm so relieved and excited to drive it. My heating coil around the inlet pipe isn't working though so I'm going to have a re-think on the heater take-off - need a 'Y' rather than a 'T' - but not so crucial now the weather is a bit warmer.

#9 clubby_1275gt

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 07:34 PM

what did u change as i have the very saME PROBLEM

#10 Verbaliser

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 07:47 PM

I fitted a Lumenition Magnetronic ignition kit to my mini a while back (fits inside the distributor) and when I reconnected it after fitting the charger, stupidly I connected the wires on the coil the wrong way round and it fried the module. I bought a replacement module off ebay for £50 and fitted it today. Red wire to +ve, black wire to -ve. Problem solved.

#11 clubby_1275gt

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 08:00 PM

so i reckon mine is screwed to then lol

#12 Matrix

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Posted 05 April 2011 - 08:20 AM

One thing to remember with magnatronic kit is not to leave the ignition in the on position without starting the car for very long this will kill the amp inside the dizzy...if you need to check anything with the ignition on simply remove the power lead (red wire +) from the 12v power source!
The easy way to check if you have fried the amp is smell it!! they smell like fish when assassinated!

#13 Verbaliser

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Posted 05 April 2011 - 10:30 AM

Thanks for the pointer.

I did notice a funny smell and it looked like it bled out solder!




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