
Hustler Wiring
#1
Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:50 AM
#2
Posted 08 March 2011 - 12:47 PM
First check that you have 12V at the coil with the ignition on (best to do this with the -ve side disconnected). If you have 12 V you need to start looking at the dizzy, points, rotor arm, condensor, cap.
If you don't have 12 v then you'll need to trace the wires. But otherwise, yes, a wire from the battery direct to the coil will work.
#3
Posted 08 March 2011 - 12:49 PM
#4
Posted 09 March 2011 - 08:46 AM
hi all,i have removed the dizzy cap and it does not have any spark at points where ever i have switches, what settings do i need my multimeter on to test coil and points(own one dont know how to use it)aand any other electricals you might think of,regards john.yes, just disconnect the + wire from the coil and take a new wire direct from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil.
#5
Posted 09 March 2011 - 10:18 AM
Test the coil supply using the 20v DC range on most multimeters. Test the coil primary winding using a fairly low resistance scale of around 2 ohms. You don't need to test the inside of the dizzy, but you could continuity test the low tension cable.
#6
Posted 09 March 2011 - 11:39 AM
hi dan,i have looked at the socket and it has no name on it just a load of numbers,when i connect two wires together i do get a instant beep inside dash but there is so much work to get inside the dash and as i am putting it up for sale just want to know if engine runs,i can take photos on digital but as yet cant work out how to put them on site,its an age thingregards john.The circular socket in the dash sounds like an immobiliser, it will need a key to fit it. Wouldn't be much of an immobiliser if simply bypassing it by joining the wires together would work, the keys are usually coded. You need to find the relay or ECU that is actually doing the immoblising and bypass that. Do you have a picture of the socket you could post?
Test the coil supply using the 20v DC range on most multimeters. Test the coil primary winding using a fairly low resistance scale of around 2 ohms. You don't need to test the inside of the dizzy, but you could continuity test the low tension cable.
#7
Posted 09 March 2011 - 11:41 AM
were abouts in durham area do you live as i could come and help you out.
#8
Posted 09 March 2011 - 11:44 AM
hi,im in blackhall rocks all help appreciated as i have so many questions about my other project as well(tea coffee always on supply)regards johnif it has standard points ignition by passing all the wiring with a wire from battery to coil supplies power to the coil and a wire from the negative side of the coil to the points/distrbutor will by pass any alarm/immobilisor and give a spark at the points. depending how the immobilisor is wired you may have to jump the solinoid with a screwdriver.
were abouts in durham area do you live as i could come and help you out.
#9
Posted 09 March 2011 - 12:19 PM
#10
Posted 09 March 2011 - 12:40 PM
hi ethel,i know there is one side ofdizzy with two wires on it will check when i can get back to garage,regards john.what's connected to the -ve side of the coil? Get rid of anything other than the dizzy. Run a new wire to be sure if it's taped up in the loom.
#11
Posted 11 March 2011 - 11:58 AM
hi all well problem solved, many thanks to midgeridge who came and helped me sort the problem,wired direct to batt(coil had also packed up which didnt help) i now only need to bypass cut off switch and then its for sale,regards johnhi ethel,i know there is one side ofdizzy with two wires on it will check when i can get back to garage,regards john.what's connected to the -ve side of the coil? Get rid of anything other than the dizzy. Run a new wire to be sure if it's taped up in the loom.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users