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Door step challenge


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#1 Christy

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 10:37 PM

I need to replace the door step on my beloved Mini. How do I first remove the old one and then secondly what do I need to do to fit the new plate... and what rust prevention do I need to do for the under side and for the sill underneath?

#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 11:02 PM

First thing is to cut out only what is necessary, then cut a new doorstep repair panel to fit...

that saves a bit for when the other side goes.. :angry:

To cut out, I use a reciprocating saw, and clean it up with an angle grinder.. but you can take the section out with an angle grinder fairly easily..

While that bit off it's a good idea to have a lok at the condition of the inside of the sill box section, and if ok... treat with s good dosing of dynatrol or some other rust inhibitor..

Weld new bit of step in, and then prime with some zinc primer ( or other rust preventing primer ) and paint.

Job done

Edited by GuessWorks, 05 January 2006 - 11:02 PM.


#3 Al*

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 02:58 AM

although guessworks did a pretty good job explaining that I'd like to clear up a couple things.... don't cut out your existing door step untill you have your replacement one there, that way you will be positive you haven't cut too much away.... if that happens you are in deep $hit. once the old panel is cut out offer your new one up to the area it will be installed in and then cut if necessary. your best off doing a lap joint for the welding (about 1/2" of overlap... new panel on the top) before you weld the panel on grind it to bare metal on the inside and out of the area to be welded (then coat the inside with a weld thru primer for protection) also make sure your existing pillars where the overlap will be are cleaned up prior to fitting. :wink: I'll try top get a couple pics up right away as I just welded the right side door step into my mini on sunday. :smartass:

Al

#4 Al*

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:09 AM

heres one......

Al

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#5 Al*

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:11 AM

from the front..... still have to build a patch for the bottom of the filch panel there. :angry:

Oh sweet glorious rust! :worship:

Al

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#6 Al*

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:13 AM

forgot to mention..... be sure to test fit the door when installing your new doorstep... it wouldn't be pretty if the door didn't fit after all your work.

Al

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#7 miniboo

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 07:23 AM

First thing is to cut out only what is necessary, then cut a new doorstep repair panel to fit...

that saves a bit for when the other side goes.. :angry:

To cut out, I use a reciprocating saw, and clean it up with an angle grinder.. but you can take the section out with an angle grinder fairly easily..

While that bit off it's a good idea to have a lok at the condition of the inside of the sill box section, and if ok... treat with s good dosing of dynatrol or some other rust inhibitor..

Weld new bit of step in, and then prime with some zinc primer ( or other rust preventing primer ) and paint.

Job done

So what your saying is that you dont have to replace a whole doorstep put you can cut up a replacement doorstep and use it as a patch?

This is what i was planning on doing is that ok?

Sorry if this is a hijack

#8 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 07:50 AM

Yup, there's no point cutting out good metal for the sake of it... if there's only a 2 inch hole in the doorstep, why replace 24 inches... just cut back to good metal.
If you have a joggler then make an o0verlap, but I would butt weld the patch in, as you will not have to fill or grind out to get the path flush and eventually invisible, would not be any less strong than an overlap.

I have used one dorstep replacement panel to repair three cars, that's maiking your pennies work hard.

#9 dklawson

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:06 PM

All good advice above. I'd add that before cutting out the door step examine the inner and outer sills to decide if they have to be replaced also. If they do, don't be tempted to cut it all out until AFTER you've welded bracing around the door opening and made careful measurements of it. If you take out too much metal at once that side of the car will flex.

If you find you don't need to do the inner and outer sills at the same time, there's another tool that may be helpful to you, a spot weld cutter. Basically it looks like a small hole saw with a spring loaded center. You drill a tiny pilot hole through each spot weld, chuck this cutter in your electric drill, place the cutter's spring loaded pilot in the holes you've drilled and run the drill on slow to cut a small circle around the spot weld. This lets you leave the sound panels behind. Once the rotten metal is removed you dress up the flanges on the panels you left behind being sure to grind off the extra thickness of the spot weld "buttons" left by the cutter.

#10 Christy

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 06:02 PM

All good advice my good people. I will take every word on board. Just need to learn how to weld and i'm away...

serious!

#11 miniboo

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 06:27 PM

Yup, there's no point cutting out good metal for the sake of it... if there's only a 2 inch hole in the doorstep, why replace 24 inches... just cut back to good metal.
If you have a joggler then make an o0verlap, but I would butt weld the patch in, as you will not have to fill or grind out to get the path flush and eventually invisible, would not be any less strong than an overlap.

I have used one dorstep replacement panel to repair three cars, that's maiking your pennies work hard.

nice one guessworks just what i thought.

by the way can you explain whart a joggler does? Does it make a step in metal for a overlap joint?

Cheers

#12 Bungle

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 07:01 PM

by the way can you explain whart a joggler does? Does it make a step in metal for a overlap joint?

Yes :wink:

#13 miniboo

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 07:53 PM

cool




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