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Passenger Door Rust Repair


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#1 zbc

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 04:41 AM

I am looking for some advice on repairing the door skin on my passenger door.

I have already reapired the door frame (I thought the frame repair would be the hard part) but have hit a speed bump for the door skin.

I think I need to give the new steel some shape before I weld it. I am not sure how I can without taking the new steel to a panel beater.

Any advice appreciated.

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#2 Nikral

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 11:09 AM

I wouls have replaced the whole doorskin, would have been a lot easier and quicker than trying to put a patch in.

#3 the_r_sole

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 11:35 AM

i'm sure you can buy a door bottom repair panel? i seem to remember having one kickin about in the shed for a while...

#4 zbc

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 05:25 PM

Thanks for the replys.

If I replace the door skin I assume I spot weld across the top then fold the lip over around the door.

The only reason I ws going to put a patch on was to keep the cost down.

#5 sonikk4

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 07:01 PM

Thanks for the replys.

If I replace the door skin I assume I spot weld across the top then fold the lip over around the door.

The only reason I ws going to put a patch on was to keep the cost down.


You can buy repair sections that fit the lower part of the skin however you will warp the skin no matter how careful you are so rather than messing around with that then a replacement door skin would be a better approach. If money is tight then stick to the repair section but if you intend keeping your car then replace the skin and use a Heritage skin as they are so much better.

Spot weld the new skin at the frame pillars and then at the top of the skins seam weld the skin to the door frame, the rest is folded round. Use a panel beating hammer and dolly. The folding tool you can buy leaves marks on the folded lip.

If you go the re skin route do paint inside the skin to offer as much protection as possible and once fitted then pump Waxoyl in but make sure your drain holes are clear.

#6 zbc

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 07:31 AM

I will check out some prices for a new genuine door skin, if its under $200nz I will be repalcing it. Its going to be quite pricey to get one from GB, freight will be a killer.

Edit:

I just did a check on mini sport for the cost of a door skin.

63gbp for the panel + 70gbp for freight......

Edited by zbc, 26 March 2011 - 07:34 AM.


#7 sonikk4

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 11:35 AM

I will check out some prices for a new genuine door skin, if its under $200nz I will be repalcing it. Its going to be quite pricey to get one from GB, freight will be a killer.

Edit:

I just did a check on mini sport for the cost of a door skin.

63gbp for the panel + 70gbp for freight......


Jesus that's steep, sorry hadn't realised you were in Kiwi land. Plan B, buy the repair section as it will be a lot cheaper, carefully joggle the remaining door skin then once you are happy everything is good tack weld the repair section in place. Each time you do this cool the weld down with a damp cloth or get a section of central heating copper pipe, split it and hammer it flat. Once you have done that then pin it to the back of the weld area and this will then act as a heat soak to help minimize distortion.

Then instead of seam welding pulse weld in sections no longer than an 1" miss and 1" do the same etc. A bit like this, ignore the cut out section but you can see the individual welds or pulses. They are for intent and purposes tack welds but the torch is held on for a little longer to ensure good weld penetration
Posted Image

There is another product on the Frost website that also acts as a heat soak
http://www.frost.co......Front (414ml)

One of the lads on the forum Deemo uses it and recommends it but its not cheap so maybe there is an equivalent in New Zealand??

Once the welding is done then grind back flush, skim with filler and job done. I have done this before and although i did the filling the final product was good enough to keep my missus from complaining.

Have a look on this website http://www.scparts.co.uk and look for item 318186 under chapter 15, this is the lower repair section you will need depending on side.

Edited by sonikk4, 26 March 2011 - 11:47 AM.


#8 jimmyjjohn

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 07:10 AM

I have some rust starting to bubble through the paint on the bottom from corner of the passenger side door. The area is maybe 3 or 4" square. I had a small leak in the bottom right corner of the windshield (sealed now) which would drip underneath the glovebox, and I'm willing to bet it's related.

I've never done bodywork before, but I'm willing to tackle it over the winter. I just picked up a welder and compressor (with painting tools) from my brother in law.

I realize that there may well be much more rust that what I'm seeing, but as for this part itself, what is the basic process? I'm thinking cut away the corner and weld in a replacement piece from a donor door, sand and paint. Is that the gist of it?



#9 sonikk4

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 09:53 AM

can you post up some pictures of the affected area?? i would not be cutting anything from a donor door, instead use a some 0.9mm thick steel sheet and fabricate the repair section you need.

 

Its not as difficult as it sounds, you may need to use several sections of steel welded together and then once welded in place a skim of filler will finish it off.

 

Have a look at the Red One link below my signature to get an idea of what maybe behind the area you need to repair.






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