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"whirr" Noise When Turning Key- Engine Not Turning


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#1 bucyaj

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 06:23 PM

1978 mini 1000

Hi all,

Drove to uni earlier, no problems, came back, turn the key and there is just a whirring noise from the starter but nothing else. Everything was fine before. I jump started it and it was fine, got home and had the same problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

#2 Scholes2012

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 06:35 PM

I would say that the starter solenoid is not pushing out the starter gear, but the starter motor is turning.

#3 bucyaj

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:05 PM

OK, thanks. How easy are they to replace?

Also, I just had a chat with a guy from a local garage who said it may be that gunk has got caught in there stopping it from catching? He said a clean may do it but since it may be the original starter that a new one would be better.

Does that sound right? If it's the solenoid is that an easy fix? Is it best to do both?

#4 Scholes2012

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:15 PM

1978 mini 1000


Just noticed, you'll have the old style, inertia starter, not really up to speed with these.

#5 CHUNKY365

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:57 PM

If you have the old style starter motor, then its all cheap and easy.

1. Remove the front grill (much better access) and you'll see the starter in front of you.

2. Disconnect the battery!

3. Remove the small brass nut that holds the big black electric feed cable.

4. Now remove the two 9/16th (14mm) bolts holding in the starter motor. Theres one at the top and one at the bottom. Usually easier with a socket, long extension and a ratchet.

5. Remove starter.

6. The bloke at the garage is prob right and 99% of the time all you need is a wire bruch and WD40.

7. Look at the end of the starter that pokes in towards the flywheel (the bit you don't normally see). On the end is a gear and then a collar, these slide IN towards the main body of the starter when you try to start the car,

8. You'll see a theres a type of VERY coarse thread which the collar runs on. using the wire brush and the WD40 clean up this 'thread' and pull the collar, whilst twisting it back and forth.

9. You should be able to pull the collar back, with a 'light' resistance and then let go and it will spring back. Keep cleaing and pulling until it does.

10. clean and replace.

Should have sorted it!

#6 bucyaj

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 08:19 PM

Thanks so much for that reply :D

I'll be onto it tomorrow!

#7 CHUNKY365

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 11:00 PM

Yeah once you get the starter off, it'll make MUCH more sense :)

I just typed that in a hurry before I left home for work, so might seem a bit 'garbled'. Should all be easy though and you'll see what you'll need to do.

#8 dklawson

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 11:14 PM

Good advice above.

The one caveat I will mention is that the "old school" rule was to NEVER lubricate the Bendix unit (the part with the high-helix threads that you will be cleaning). The thought is that any oil there (even WD-40) will attract and hold dirt which just makes cleaning necessary again. Instead of oils, you can clean the Bendix with gasoline (if you are careful), spray brake cleaner, spray carb cleaner, kerosene, mineral spirits, alcohol... almost any solvent that will evaporate. To re-lube the helix use graphite powder or moly-disulfide powder. Both are dry lubes. You should be able to find them at hobby shops.

However, you said that jump starting the car worked... that it made the Bendix unit work. Before spending the time to fix/clean the starter motor you may wish to have your battery checked. Perhaps it is sitting there at low voltage and unable to get the starter up to high enough speed for the Bendix to work.

#9 Cooperman

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 11:19 PM

Good advice above.

The one caveat I will mention is that the "old school" rule was to NEVER lubricate the Bendix unit (the part with the high-helix threads that you will be cleaning). The thought is that any oil there (even WD-40) will attract and hold dirt which just makes cleaning necessary again. Instead of oils, you can clean the Bendix with gasoline (if you are careful), spray brake cleaner, spray carb cleaner, kerosene, mineral spirits, alcohol... almost any solvent that will evaporate. To re-lube the helix use graphite powder or moly-disulfide powder. Both are dry lubes. You should be able to find them at hobby shops.

However, you said that jump starting the car worked... that it made the Bendix unit work. Before spending the time to fix/clean the starter motor you may wish to have your battery checked. Perhaps it is sitting there at low voltage and unable to get the starter up to high enough speed for the Bendix to work.


If you 'jump-started' it as you stated, presumably from another vehicle, then it is not a starter or solenoid issue. However, you might mean that you 'push-started' it, in which case it probably is a starter or solenoid problem.

#10 bucyaj

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:00 PM

Sorry for the confusion, I push started it.

It is also working now, I followed the procedure advised above and it worked a treat. I have only read the reply about not using WD just now which would have been useful but I shall see how it goes in the meantime.

Thanks again to you all!

#11 bucyaj

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 06:55 PM

OK, more problems.

It worked for a couple of days but now when I turn the key I just get a click. Is it best just to get a new starter?

#12 dklawson

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 07:25 PM

It worked for a couple of days but now when I turn the key I just get a click. Is it best just to get a new starter?


No. A single click may just be an indication of a dead battery. It is better to check for that first before buying a new starter.

Invest in jumper cables and a multimeter. Use the jumper cables and a friend's car to try and start the engine next time you get the single click from the solenoid. If the engine turns over on jumper cables this indicates there is not a problem with the starter.

When the engine refuses to start, measure the voltage across the battery. If it is below 12V, the battery needs charging or is at the end of its life. With the engine running, make the same measurement across the battery terminals. If you find 14 to 15 V across the battery terminals the alternator is working and the battery should be recharging. If you find 12V or less on the battery with the engine running, the alternator is not putting out electricity.

#13 bucyaj

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 08:44 AM

OK, I will check the battery though I only had a new one put in over winter? Was turning over well too until this came up :thumbsup:

#14 bucyaj

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 08:59 AM

Haha,

Right, just took another gander at the solenoid and connection to starter. I wriggled some connectors, undid the wire from solenoid to starter as I had some of the rubber cover stuck between the wire and the starter when I tightened it, turned the key and away she went... So, either the thing wasn't tightened enough or the rubber was causing problems or my solenoid connections were loose and needed a wiggle or something?!

Thanks for all your suggestions again :thumbsup:

#15 dklawson

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 12:48 PM

Great! I hope that you have found the root cause and that it is truly sorted out now.




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