
Solid Mounting Exhaust & Engine Mounts
#1
Posted 15 April 2011 - 01:24 PM
Also as the engine will effect how well the exhaust lasts due to how much it moves, can I solid mount the exhaust if the engine has good steadies or is rubber mounting best? Will be rallying so don't want it flopping around as rubber mounts can break too easily sometimes.
#2
Posted 15 April 2011 - 03:32 PM
Exhaust should stay rubber mounted, as the engine rocks the exhaust moves a lot, so if you solid mount you're going to cause fatigue and early joint failure, particularly on the manifold to intermediate pipe joint.
You can also polybush or solid mount the subframes to stiffen things up a bit.
#3
Posted 15 April 2011 - 04:38 PM
#4
Posted 15 April 2011 - 06:14 PM
Why do you want to solid mount the engine? decent engine steadies will be a good start.
Better clutch control can prelong engine steady bushes too
#5
Posted 15 April 2011 - 07:04 PM
miglia have a solid mounted rear box and a flexi joint where you describe.
Sorry, but they dont.
Exhausts are normally just mounted at rear, some are on hangers but most are solid.
Also they generally run std engine mounts, we did use the quick release poly bushes for a while but they were more of a pain than they were worth.
#6
Posted 15 April 2011 - 07:04 PM
- An ultimate engine steady at the top, one side sollid one side poly
- another top engine steady. I've used a Specialist Components one which is solid and one side poly
- normal rubber engine mounts, don't go near the poly ones on eBay, they are bad quality and will fall apart. The solid ones apparently do quite a bit of damage.
- two gearbox steadies solid on one side ans poly on the other, available from Minispeed
For all poly bushes use polyflex, not the cheap alternatives. I will also be solid mounting my exhaust and think/hope the above is enough to prevent breaking the manifold.
Hope this helps
#7
Posted 16 April 2011 - 09:47 AM
miglia have a solid mounted rear box and a flexi joint where you describe.
Why do you want to solid mount the engine? decent engine steadies will be a good start.
Better clutch control can prelong engine steady bushes too
I said in my original post I do not want to solid mount the engine, and decent clutch control will be hard when thrashing the hell out of it rallying...
I've very recently done abou the same. For me it was because of the internal gear change that I'm installing. What I would suggest is the following:
- An ultimate engine steady at the top, one side sollid one side poly
- another top engine steady. I've used a Specialist Components one which is solid and one side poly
- normal rubber engine mounts, don't go near the poly ones on eBay, they are bad quality and will fall apart. The solid ones apparently do quite a bit of damage.
- two gearbox steadies solid on one side ans poly on the other, available from Minispeed
For all poly bushes use polyflex, not the cheap alternatives. I will also be solid mounting my exhaust and think/hope the above is enough to prevent breaking the manifold.
Hope this helps
That helps thanks, internal gear change is also on my list of priorities, does it work ok without the additional steady rod that they normally have under the selector rod?
How did you mount the exhaust? Mayeb rubber at the front and solid mounted under the rear subframe would work ok?
#8
Posted 16 April 2011 - 05:19 PM
Same for the exhaust, not tested yet. I will be removing the rubbers at the back so the exhaust can (in combination with the internal gear change) come higher in the tunnel and therefore the car lower. Will be tubbing the rear arches too.
#9
Posted 16 April 2011 - 05:42 PM
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