14 replies to this topic

[TopCatCustom]

Hi, how's best to fix the bolts that hold the crownwheel onto the diff? I have just built a X pin diff up from minispares, the old bolts are perfect- should I use Loctite 270 which is a full on stud lock and use with washers?

Edited by C4NN0N, 17 April 2011 - 12:28 PM.

[MRA]

Use 648 which is a lot stronger and no washers....

[Tinkerbelle]

I am sure others have given me similar advice before also.

Matt

[TopCatCustom]

Thanks, Martin I asked the guy in my bearing shop about 648 and he said it is really for fitting things onto shafts and taking up slack, whereas 270 is similarly strong and is made for threads because it is thinner and designed to creep down threads and lock it all up, 648 is thicker and may not do the same- but hey I'm after what is proven and what works.

Also I have just bolted my CW onto the new X pin diff (with the new fibre washers) and the shaft that goes through the CW has about 1mm of play in and out (not sideways although there is a little movement). When pushed in it is very notchy and when pulled out it turns a lot smoother, I'm not missing anything and it is all in good condition or new, so is it normal to be really notchy and why so much slop?

[MRA]

Where did the cross pin diff come from ? and are you using new pinion gears ? also some output shafts had a central boss that was about .75mm high I prefer to use these, however finding them is getting harder as the later type didn't have it

I have used 270, I find that although threaded parts go together easily, it doesn't have the long lasting grip that 648 does.... also the temperature range is lower.

A word of warning with most liquid thread locking compounds.... tighten the assembly without using the thread lock and remove one fixing at a time apply liquid thread lock then retorque to the specified amount.

And never use a torque wrench to undo only use for torqueing the fixing.

[TopCatCustom]

It's a brand new unit from minispares, the output shafts are from a spare diff I had in the workshop and in pretty good nick- visible wear where they go through the bushes but not measurable. With the first one in place and new pinion gears all fixed in place it runs ok, slightly notchy but ok, with the crownwheel bolted on the output shaft that goes through it has endways movement of about 1mm, when pushed in it is very notchy but when pulled out it is ok, however there is nothing to stop it going in and out during use. That one also has some sideways movement which could be down to the bush in the crownwheel I guess. Can you get new bushes?

[TopCatCustom]

Anyone else know about the output shaft end float?

[Guess-Works.com]

There is no "end float"... did you remember to put the fibre thrust on the output shaft before fitting the crown wheel ?

As for Loctite.... Yes I use it, and don't use the lock tabs...

Also for reference, I use 270, not 648 for the following reasons...

270 is a thread lock, 648 is a retaining compound, slightly different purposes and properties... strength, temperature and oil resistance properties are very similar, but the main difference is the cure time, 270 cure time is 3 hours (although fixed in 10 minutes), 648 is 3 minutes, this allows time to 'make a mistake'

[MRA]

What John.... you mean you make mistakes

[TopCatCustom]

Cheers John, I did remember to fit the new fibre washers yes. The end float I have is only on the shaft that goes through the crownwheel not on the other end (at least a tiny amount that I would assume to be completely normal).

[Guess-Works.com]

It's too much, on a new x-pin, I would expect the crownwheel output shaft to be held fairly firmly, in fact almost to the point of being tight. You should have no where near 1mm of in/out play, 1mm is the approximate thickness of the fibre thrust, hence my question above...

Check the crownwheel fit onto the x-pin, there maybe something in there causing it to stand off from the x-pin...

And yes Martin, I make mistakes, but then I would not learn if I didn't

Edited by Guess-Works.com, 19 April 2011 - 08:11 AM.

[TopCatCustom]

The crownwheel sits flush on there no prob, I'll stick another CW on and see if it is the same. Can I get new bronze bushes for my CW as well as mine is showing some wear.

[Guess-Works.com]

yes, but will need to be machined to size once fitted.

[TopCatCustom]

Does it have to be honed, bored or reamed to size? (Martin I know you dont like reamers by the way!) I have a straight cut CW&P so want to keep them, also do the new bushes come with groves for lubrication or plain?

Edited by C4NN0N, 19 April 2011 - 08:30 AM.

[MRA]

I do like reamers

However, you know how some people use screwdrivers as chisels etc..... Reamers are not the correct tool for pre-finished bushes, bearing journals guides etc.....