7 replies to this topic

[blackbelt1990]

Morning all!

I've managed to shear off the top of my oil pressure switch on my 1275, clean in line with the face of the block

Bought some left handed taps off ebay and either they're rubbish or this switch just doesnt want to budge

Any advice? What are my options other than buying some more taps?

Thanks, Ryan

[Big_Adam]

Got a hole right down the middle, just slowly work up in drill sizes then change the oil afterwards to clear out the swarf.

[steverose]

Instead of taps use some easy-outs. I sheared off my temp sensor and they worked a treat.

[MRA]

Easy outs should work, however it really depends on how tight it is in the first place

Drilling and changing the oil afterwards is not such a good idea, simply because the pressure gauge take off is off the main oil gallery and is prior to the bearings, now whilst brass is softer than steel it isn't softer than the material used to face a crankshaft or camshaft bearing and the brass swarf could do damage to your new engine

[Shifty]

Cheap easy outs are not a good idea either.

I like the square ones and not the ones that look like a coarse threaded left hand tap.

[Tim1970]

I just had to do the same thing on a block i bought.
Unfortunately easy outs wouldn't budge it so i had to stip it and drill it out slowly up to the tapping drill size only then did the threads come loose. The drilling gets swarf in the oilways so the engine would need to be stripped and the oilways cleared. Even using easy outs could cause a bit of swarf that could work its way to the bearings so i'd say it's best to strip it either way for peace of mind.

Edited by Tim1970, 30 April 2011 - 11:37 PM.

[Oor Wullie]

Bit of a warning with eazi outs......Had the very same problem on removing the pressure switch - sheared off flush with the block. Tried a series of eazi outs and drill bits and had no joy until it suddenly turned... ....but then I I realized that the eazi out had turned itself into the hole and its taper had caused the thread and the face of the block to crack. . Well, with no chance of the thread budging and a couple of cracks in the blcok I ended up taking the engine out and getting it machined and welded up. The good news was that the machiners found that my head cyclinder was warped so go that skimmed and I also used the whole escapade as an excuse to fit a new cam. Just got it up and running today and all down to a £6.00 broken pressure switch.

[Dan]

As the sender is already a tapered thread and is as tight as it can realistically be, forcing a tapered EZ-Out (which grip through their taper expanding the piece more than through cutting) into the back of it is a really bad idea as the post above shows.