10 replies to this topic

[Daveymac]

Is there an easier method to removing sills, or more specifically the remaining metal spot welded to the side step? I have removed 90% of the sill and have a small strip to remove from the side step/lip, but so far seem to be bending the lip all out of shape while chiseling the old metal off. I have drilled the spot welds but not all the way through and probably not deep enough from my thoughts, any help or good practice ideas?

[sonscar]

Grind it thinner,when it turns from blue to red it is thin enough to prise off.Protect things from sparks.Steve..

[stuart bowes]

power file / finger sander was my weapon of choice, I found it easier to be accurate and get just through the waste metal without going into the stuff I'm keeping

 

takes ages though if you're being precise

Edited by stuart bowes, 27 June 2025 - 10:29 AM.

[Steam]

Get a spot weld drill bit, works a treat.

[Ethel]

I did wonder if you meant after drilling with a spot drill.  I'd see the remaining spot has an opportunity to make an alignment aid, if you didn't drill on the "keeper" side. As far as chewing off rusty remnants goes, I've found using a set of pliers or mole-grips like a sardine tin key  along the panel join is quite effective.

[68+86auto]

10mm belt sander and roloc sander.

Using the belt sander totally replaces spot weld drill bits. I don't use the drill bits unless I need to save both panels.

[sonikk4]

Personally i use 1/4" cobalt drill bits and a very thin splitting blade, BUT if its just a sill then for speed i cut the majority away with a 1mm slitting disc then play hunt the spot weld with a grinder as invariably if things are very crusty trying to find a spot weld can be problamatic even more so if the sill have been previously replaced.

 

However i have spot weld drill bits with varying success but ill stick to my own mehtod of using 1/4'' drill bit and splitting blade.

 

BUT this also depends on the equipment and facilities you have to hand. Something to bear in mid for novice mini owners.

[stuart bowes]

I did wonder if you meant after drilling with a spot drill.  I'd see the remaining spot has an opportunity to make an alignment aid, if you didn't drill on the "keeper" side. As far as chewing off rusty remnants goes, I've found using a set of pliers or mole-grips like a sardine tin key  along the panel join is quite effective.

Same here sometimes, it's like removing wallpaper, sometimes you get a good bit that goes a long way and just peels nicely. Other times (often) you're picking at tiny bits and that's when the power file came out

[Cooperman]

Whichever method you use, it's a time-consuming job. But it's all worth it when the new sills are on.

[Daveymac]

Thanks all for the advice. Just for info, I was drilling with a spot weld drill and prizing with a thin cold chisel (and hammer), but suspect it was the original sill, rusty in places and spot welded every 20mm so took ages to remove carefully. I've left the front and rear section on (cut surplus away with slitting disk) and ground them back as they were relatively thinned out any way. One side removed successfully though. Remarkably clean underneath for a car that's 46 yrs old and mostly original.

 

I will wait on ordering replacement sills as i think I need the whole car media blasted (any recommendations on the Wirral, Merseyside) to get a true idea of the bodywork requirements, but from what I've seen so far it will be minimal.

 

Its the start of a long road, and I may need my own project page... 

[stuart bowes]

blasting can deform panels you have to be careful (not to mention the cost obvs)

 

you can achieve a similar end result for much cheaper with a wire brush attachment on an angle grinder.    but wear PPE it's a bit of a lethal tool.  I find the wheel type works more effectively than the cup type but you'll probably have to remove the protective guard.  hence, PPE (definitely thick gloves as well as goggles)

 

alternate a lot between working and resting, partly to prevent white finger, partly to give your neighbours a break and partly to stop your grinder overheating and dying

Edited by stuart bowes, 03 July 2025 - 09:46 AM.