7 replies to this topic

[minimad74]

Hi All,
I have a fault with my mini which is a 1977 1275 GT. The fault is when ignition key turned to start, The ignition lights come on but no power at all dead!! All the indicators, Horn, Hazards all work, But it's like the battery is not fitted!! But it is, The battery and alternator have been checked and are 100%, I recently had a problem when driving along the complete power would die and the car would stop, Nothing no ignition etc, After waiting a few minutes it would come on again. I have just fitted a new solenoid just incase and have fitted a complete new electronic distributor, All parts were photographed and double checked when refitting, Still nothing! I did notice recently that the engine earth was old and fitted to the wrong place, So I bought a new earth lead and fitted to correct earth points, engine block to bulkhead. The solenoid does not click when trying to start, It is completely dead! But with ignition lights on and like I said, All lights,horn,hazards, indicators all work fine!!! AARRRGGHHH!!!!! Any help appreciated.

[dklawson]

You said you installed a new solenoid. There are 3- and 4-terminal solenoids. The 4-terminal solenoids have "two" small spade lugs on them. The first spade lug gets the white/red wire that energizes the solenoid coil. The second terminal gets a white/yellow wire that goes to the coil. The white/yellow wire is only used on cars with ballast ignition systems.

If you have a 4-terminal solenoid, there is a chance the white/red wire is on the wrong terminal and therefore, the solenoid is NOT closing when you turn the key.

Another solenoid possibility (if this is for an inertia starter) is that you do not have a good earth connection for the solenoid mounting foot. Without a good earth connection to the mounting foot, the solenoid will not operate.

[DeanP]

<Edit> check the above first, but there will be no harm in doing the below.



I think you have a dirty connection somewhere, the only way of finding it is to clean them all up. Remember these are old cars and a lot of these connections are still original.

Disconnect the battery.

The negative earth lead from the battery bolts to the boot floor, unbolt it, emory paper the hole free of rust, emory the connector on the cable, vaseline both up and rebolt to boot floor.

Next move to the fuse box on the bulkhead, unclip the spade connectors one at a time and clean and emory them up free of rust (and the female parts), vaseline up and refit. Make sure they are tight when refitting. Take out the fuses one at a time, clean connections, vaseline up and refit. Make sure there is a good connection on all contacts. Check all fuses are good and not blown, include any in the white holders behind the air filter.

Next move to the alternator, disconnect the electrical connector, emory the spades and female parts, vaseline up and refit.

Hopefully this may cure your problem, if not come back.

Edited by DeanP, 05 June 2011 - 05:50 PM.

[minimad74]

]Hi, Thanks for suggestions, Can't get to car until next week as kept somewhere else, But you were right about the solenoid, The new one had an extra tag on it, I did wonder what is was for, And thought it might be a universal solenoid, The original one was a lucas but so rusty could'nt see a part number, New solenoid is also a lucas with a part number of: SRB341. I had to remove and reposition some of the tags as were in a different place to the original, I did take a photo on my phone (Not very good) Of how it looks now with the new solenoid, Everything is in exactly the same place as the original, Apart from the extra tag! I will check the wire colours, I hope there not different to everyone else's, Will let you know next week if any luck, Even bought a flash new timing light to set it all up!!!
 Solenoid.jpg   246.59K   43 downloads

[rustandoil]

Have you checked the battery earth?

[minimad74]

Hi, I had a look at the car last week and after checking everything, Earth's etc, I decided that the new solenoid could be the problem, So I returned to seller for a replacement, When that turned up I fitted and still the same symptoms! Igntions lights etc but no power, I then left the ignition switched and shorted out the 2 terminal posts on the solenoid and the car burst into life!!!!!! Does this mean I have bought 2 faulty solenoid's? The one I was sent was different to the original one on the car, Same fitting, But new solenoid had an extra tag on it, Which I think is used for ballast coils? It is supposed to be a more modern universal fitting one, But I still think it's the solenoid just does'nt work on my car! I have managed to find the correct solenoid, So I will order and let you guys know the outcome. To make matters even worse I pushed my car out of the garage and forgot I had left the draw open on my tool chest, And put a great big scrap down my original mint paintwork!!!!! AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!

[dklawson]

Before you go in search of any more solenoids, perform the following test.

First, keep in mind is that the mounting foot of the solenoid is its earth connection. The solenoid foot MUST have a good earth connection if the solenoid is to work. If in doubt, run an earth wire from under one of the solenoid mounting screws over some bare metal point on the engine or gearbox. Make sure the solenoid has a good earth connection before anything else.

Once the solenoid is earthed, make a short jumper wire (perhaps a foot long) and strip both ends. Temporarily put electrical tape over one stripped end and sandwich/insert or otherwise get the remaining stripped end stuck in one of the female spade connectors for a brown wire on the solenoid. Those brown wires should all be electrically hot as they should be connected to the main battery feed cable from the boot.

Pull the white/red wire off the solenoid, PLACE THE GEARBOX IN NEUTRAL, then return to the front of the car. Remove the protective tape from the jumper wire and tap it against the small terminal lugs on the starter solenoid. One of the two terminals should make the solenoid energize. Once you have determined which terminal makes the solenoid energize, mark it somehow so you don't forget. Completely remove the jumper wire from the solenoid and put the white/red wire on the solenoid terminal that you marked. Now see if your starter works on the key.

If the starter does not energize now, consider getting a multimeter. Measure the voltage on the white/red wire when you have a friend turn the key to the start position. If you do not find 12V, you have a supply problem. It could be a broken wire, a wire bumped off the ignition switch, or it could be a problem with the ignition switch itself.

It is highly unlikely that you got two defective solenoids and more likely that the white/red wire is somehow the source of the problem.

[minimad74]

Good news guys.. Fixed it!! I took the advice from the previous poster and fitted an earth from the solenoid mounting foot to the earth on the body, Plus installed the new solenoid, And it burst into life first turn of the key!! As I had already fitted a new electronic distributor, All I had to do was set the ignition timing with my new timing light, First time doing it, And I can't believe the difference it has made!! It feels like someone has stuck a supercharger on it!!!! The old points distributor vacuum advance unit was broken so the pipe has been disconnected since I bought the car! I had it timed about a year ago by someone as was running bad, It really made a difference then, But he pointed out the broken vacuum, But it still ran better than it did. Now all has been replaced I can't believe how much faster and smoother it is! I hope I set it up ok, Took it out for a spin, No pinking or back firing, Really smooth!!! The only problem is the idle is all over the place! I have set the idle to 950rpm for my car, But goes from 750rpm to 1100rpm at random, I might need to adjust the fuel mixture as has not been done since timed over a year ago, Was running really rich before. Thanks for all your help guys, Really appreciated...

Edited by minimad74, 19 June 2011 - 01:11 PM.