
Spi To Carb Quick Conversion, Leaving Ecu And Wiring In Place.
#1
Posted 11 June 2011 - 11:28 PM
CARB ...... HIF44, manifold to suit your exhaust, lcb or cast iron, small air filter, k&n cone maybe, abutement plate for choke and accelerator cable, disconnect injection system, tape together wiring and old sensor connections away as far as possible from exhaust, put on carb assembly, connect fuel to carb, remember this is coming from the old return tube, a bit of 'plumbing' is required, easy to do, a length of fuel tube and a connector, re connect brake servo tube to manifold, connect breather hose to carb, you can buy an accelerator cable to suit HIF44 carb, or use the old one, ... a bit fiddly but workable, you can put in a new choke cable, or use the existing HEATER cable, which will have to pulled off its old connection, rendering your heater useless though, either off or on,
DISTRIBUTOR .... Two choices, leave the ecu connected to run the timing, it works on mine, or replace with new distributor, electric is easier, pull out old dizzy, push in new, run new wire from ignition to coil, run vac pipe from Dizzy to carb, red wire from dizzy to coil pos. black to coil neg.... make sure leads are runing in correct order.
Star her up!!!! ............ set timing
ROUGH COST ...... pump £35 , carb assembly £60, Dizzy £40 .... tube, filter, connections, postage £20...... all from ebay, fortunately the carb was good, as was dizzy, pump was new, you can keep all the ecu assembly in place, for easy conversion back, disconnect if replacing dizzy though.
M.O.T TIME ............ Emissions .......oh dear! ....... fortunately my engine is an old carb one (it was converted to spi!!!) Emissions are tested on the age of the engine or car, which ever is the oldest.So if you do convert, you will have your carb to pass at injection emission levels!!!!
THIS IS A ROUGH GUIDE WHICH WORKS AND HAS WORKED FOR ME, OVER 1000 MILES NOW, MY OLD SPI JUST KEPT GOING WRONG, I TRIED TO PERSERVERE, BUT WITH DIAGNOSIS AND REPLACEMENT SENSORS AND BITS IT WAS COSTING A FORTUNE, SO I CONVERTED IT, MOST SPI PROBLEMS ARE LITTLE THINGS, LIKE VAC TUBES, BAD CONNECTIONS AIR LEAKS ETC,
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#2
Posted 18 December 2011 - 09:25 AM
#3
Posted 18 December 2011 - 09:35 AM
#4
Posted 20 December 2011 - 05:47 PM
#5
Posted 21 December 2011 - 11:30 AM
#6
Posted 21 December 2011 - 09:54 PM
#7
Posted 29 April 2023 - 05:14 AM
just a little technical question. I have a weber 32/36 carb and have obtained the fuel pressure regulator as well as the vacuum distributor. The only issue is the weber does not have a vacuum connection. What do I do for the ignition advance? where do I hook the vac line to?
#8
Posted 01 May 2023 - 11:07 AM
Any reason you don't just tap into the ignition live from the original pump which is already there - which I assume is ECU related ? And why you need to change the pump at all? You still need a regulator for the carb right so what benefit does the external pump bring?
Edited by madazv8, 01 May 2023 - 12:56 PM.
#9
Posted 02 May 2023 - 10:00 AM
why bother changing pump? turbos run spi pumps with a regulator to handle supply on boost could you not run a turbo pressure reg. up front and then use original return pipe for excess pressure? when i did it fitted a full pre injection engine so used manual pump and drew through feed pipe, obviously with electric pump disconnected.
For pump supply better to use the existing feeds in boot as these run through an inertia switch on bulkhead so fuel stops in an accident
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