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Butt Welding With A 4mm Gap!


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#1 mini-reub

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 06:43 PM

So basically I hav cut out some rotten flitch panels and got a bit carried away with the grinder!

Ive plug welded in the new panels to the door post but am left with a 1-4mm gap between the old and new metal.

Can I weld across the gap?? I am a bit of a newbie welder :thumbsup: :)

#2 benjy_18

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 06:56 PM

its possible, but its not going to do you any favours strength wise as you'll have to turn the power down considerably, therefore sacrificing penetrationand strength of the weld. you would be better off cutting some more of the metal away and adding a strip of new metal to fill the gap.

hope this helps

Ben

#3 mini-reub

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 07:12 PM

its possible, but its not going to do you any favours strength wise as you'll have to turn the power down considerably, therefore sacrificing penetrationand strength of the weld. you would be better off cutting some more of the metal away and adding a strip of new metal to fill the gap.

hope this helps

Ben


Cheers ben thats what I suspected. I think I should hav been less hasty when cutting it back!

I saw something a while back saying that you could use a piece of copper to bridge the gap..

#4 benjy_18

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 07:55 PM

you can use copper behind a hole, as its near impossible to weld to. you cant really use it to bridge a gap. but i would only use the copper method for small holes, you would get a much stronger repair to just cut more away and replace with a strip of metal.

everyones been a little happy with the grinder before, dont worry about it. but if it happens again to you just take your time and try to make a good job of the repair else you'll regret it later.

good luck

Ben

#5 mini-reub

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:03 PM

you can use copper behind a hole, as its near impossible to weld to. you cant really use it to bridge a gap. but i would only use the copper method for small holes, you would get a much stronger repair to just cut more away and replace with a strip of metal.

everyones been a little happy with the grinder before, dont worry about it. but if it happens again to you just take your time and try to make a good job of the repair else you'll regret it later.

good luck

Ben


Okies I'l make some repair strips to weld in. Im picking up my new gas cylinder tomorro so can get started!
thanks for the advice,

Reuben

#6 sonikk4

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:06 PM

Copper is normally used as a heat soak to help decrease distortion. You can easily cut a strip 4mm wide, i did this for Project Erms bonnet without having to widen the gap. I use 1mm Stainless steel cutting disc's which give a nice fine cut.

#7 mini-reub

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:17 PM

Copper is normally used as a heat soak to help decrease distortion. You can easily cut a strip 4mm wide, i did this for Project Erms bonnet without having to widen the gap. I use 1mm Stainless steel cutting disc's which give a nice fine cut.


Ive got those discs already from reading your project erm thread so ill give that a go!

Thanks,

Reuben

#8 Tupers

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:26 PM

That's not butt welding that's bridging although it's doable all the same.

I've done it on a coupe of the joints on the estate without a backing material but you do need t be very careful about heat building up and melting away the edge of panel. Unless it's absolutely impossible (it rarely is) then cut a thin filler section and weld into that. You'll probably find that by the time you're done the filler piece will look like it's vanished but it saves you a lot of hassle when welding.

#9 mini-reub

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:39 PM

That's not butt welding that's bridging although it's doable all the same.

I've done it on a coupe of the joints on the estate without a backing material but you do need t be very careful about heat building up and melting away the edge of panel. Unless it's absolutely impossible (it rarely is) then cut a thin filler section and weld into that. You'll probably find that by the time you're done the filler piece will look like it's vanished but it saves you a lot of hassle when welding.


I was having problems with the edges blowing through with even a 1mm gap, on the lowest power settings.

Getting much better results with the metal touching so going to take the time to get it right

#10 sonikk4

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:54 PM

That's not butt welding that's bridging although it's doable all the same.

I've done it on a coupe of the joints on the estate without a backing material but you do need t be very careful about heat building up and melting away the edge of panel. Unless it's absolutely impossible (it rarely is) then cut a thin filler section and weld into that. You'll probably find that by the time you're done the filler piece will look like it's vanished but it saves you a lot of hassle when welding.


I was having problems with the edges blowing through with even a 1mm gap, on the lowest power settings.

Getting much better results with the metal touching so going to take the time to get it right


Are you pulse welding or try to seam weld??? Pulse welding is literally a tack weld but you hold the torch on a bit longer and then the next one touches and so on. If you tack weld the filler piece in approx 1" part then fill in 1" then miss an 1" to keep the heat distortion down as far as possible. You will then end up with a nice continuous weld with good penetration.

#11 mini-reub

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 05:59 PM

That's not butt welding that's bridging although it's doable all the same.

I've done it on a coupe of the joints on the estate without a backing material but you do need t be very careful about heat building up and melting away the edge of panel. Unless it's absolutely impossible (it rarely is) then cut a thin filler section and weld into that. You'll probably find that by the time you're done the filler piece will look like it's vanished but it saves you a lot of hassle when welding.


I was having problems with the edges blowing through with even a 1mm gap, on the lowest power settings.

Getting much better results with the metal touching so going to take the time to get it right


Are you pulse welding or try to seam weld??? Pulse welding is literally a tack weld but you hold the torch on a bit longer and then the next one touches and so on. If you tack weld the filler piece in approx 1" part then fill in 1" then miss an 1" to keep the heat distortion down as far as possible. You will then end up with a nice continuous weld with good penetration.


Hi,

So I took everyones advice and spent today cutting and welding filling strips for the flitch panels. Using the pulse method I had virtually no blow throughs!

I used a flap disk to grind down the welds but am left with a few tiny little gaps. Is it ok to just use filler to fill these?

Cheers

#12 sonikk4

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 06:11 PM

Fill them with weld and grind flush.




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