12 replies to this topic

[Deathrow]

As you can see in my project thread here. I'm in the process of rebuilding the front suspension and running gear before it goes back on the car.

I've decided to renew the ball joints as they don't cost a huge amount and I might as well do them while I have the hub off the car anyway.

My question is, can I clean up my current wheel bearings, regrease them and reinstall them? Or am I asking for trouble? I would just replace them but the genuine Timken items are £51 a side these days . The non-genuine variety are alot cheaper but I'm not sure how I feel about using non-genuine wheel bearings. I've had a bearing fail before and it's not an experience I wish to relive!

[liam_italian]

I have wondered the same thing as I recently replaced my bearing as I was rebuilding the entire running gear, however on close inspection the original bearing (Timken) look to be in very good condition.

If there is no play/wear in them then I cant see any issues with reusing them, although it goes without saying that you will need to replace the oil seals etc

[Retro_10s]

Unless the bearings were making terrible noises before removal, I see no reason why you couldn't just clean them out and then Re-pack them with some fresh grease, I've done it a few times now on various mini hubs of mine and they're just fine.

[Deathrow]

Yeah I'll be replacing the oil seals, do you know of anywhere to get them? I've just checked on Mini Spares and can't see them anywhere.

There were no problems at all with the wheel bearings before the car was taken off the road, they've never had any play or made a sound.

I'll whip the oil seals out and have a look at the inner race and check it for any signs of wear or distress.

Thank you both for your replies .

[lrostoke]

Just done same. Rebuilt front hubs and suspension.

One thing make sure you put the bearing rollers back into the races they came out of.

[v21ash]

The outer seal is GHS101 and the inner seal is GHS173 which should come with the white shield.

And as already said, make sure they go back in the same race they came out of.

[sonikk4]

Wheel bearings are for me the one thing you should change as unless you can fully strip them down to their component parts you will never see all the bearing.

Second hand bearings even though you may have taken them out yourself and worked fine before can corrode especially if you have touched then with your bare sweaty paws. This is where the corrosion starts.

Over the 31 years i have been working on aircraft i have never reused a bearing especially wheels no matter how good they look or feel. I stripped and cleaned the cv joints on my last Passat as the Gaiter had split. It was thoroughly washed and degreased, inspected with a strong light source and i could see no damage. I then repacked the cv rotating several times to ensure the grease had covered all of the surfaces then reassembled and new boot fitted. (i know its not a whel bearing but the principal is the same)

Drove off went round a corner and it was noisy so the moral of the story here is if you cannot see anything wrong it does not mean to say something is not wrong.

Wheel bearing failure especially at speed is not funny and down right dangerous (been there done that and have the brown stains to prove it.Outside lane of the A1M at 75mph in my old RS front wheel bearing failed big style.) I would cough up and change them to be on the safe side.

[Deathrow]

The way I look at it though is there is just as much chance of corrosion or dirt finding its way in to a brand new bearing I'm installing as there is with a cleaned old bearing which is tried and tested.

Believe me, the importance is not lost on me. I had the driver side front wheel bearing fail on me in Talula on the way back from Bingley last year while I was doing 70MPH in the middle lane of the M6. It really is a terrifying experience but at this point, I just don't know what to trust and what not.

I'll be cleaning the old bearings with clutch and carb cleaner, spraying it through until it's spotless, as soon as that has evaporated I'll be repacking them with grease as you would a new bearing. The whole time I'll be handling the bearings I'll be wearing latex...gloves.

It's just one of those things I think, you can't check them 100% ever you just have to be cautious and believe you've done it all right.

[sonikk4]

I can appreciate what you are saying and yes new bearings can fail especially some of the very suspect ones out there on the market. If you are happy then go for it, at the end of the day its down to personal choice.

I have repacked bearings especially taper/roller bearings as you can check all of the bearing surface . Ball bearing are different as it is difficult to check 100% of the bearing surface. If you see any of the case hardening going or discolouration then bin them.

[Deathrow]

I can appreciate what you are saying and yes new bearings can fail especially some of the very suspect ones out there on the market. If you are happy then go for it, at the end of the day its down to personal choice.

I have repacked bearings especially taper/roller bearings as you can check all of the bearing surface . Ball bearing are different as it is difficult to check 100% of the bearing surface. If you see any of the case hardening going or discolouration then bin them.

Well they're taper jobbies so should be easy enough to check. I agree with you about the ball bearings, much more difficult to check properly and quite frankly, the outer races make for a better key ring .

I'll check both races over thoroughly. You sound like you know your stuff so I might even PM you with some pictures if I'm unsure about them .

[sonikk4]

I can appreciate what you are saying and yes new bearings can fail especially some of the very suspect ones out there on the market. If you are happy then go for it, at the end of the day its down to personal choice.

I have repacked bearings especially taper/roller bearings as you can check all of the bearing surface . Ball bearing are different as it is difficult to check 100% of the bearing surface. If you see any of the case hardening going or discolouration then bin them.

Well they're taper jobbies so should be easy enough to check. I agree with you about the ball bearings, much more difficult to check properly and quite frankly, the outer races make for a better key ring .

I'll check both races over thoroughly. You sound like you know your stuff so I might even PM you with some pictures if I'm unsure about them .

No problem

[Boycie]

In an ideal world, replacement would be the way to go... but I can totally understand you wanting to save £100. These bearings are too expensive these days!
However, the beauty of these taper bearings is, as you say, the way you can completely dismantle them to examine the running surfaces. You'll need to spend at least half an hour thoroughly degreasing each side, if you do it any quicker- you've not done it properly!!!!! If they are totally free of wear, re-use them after packing with fresh grease.
Another important thing to check is if they've 'spun' in the hub. Had quite a few of these in the last few months that have done this. I repair them by removing the outer race from the hub and putting tiny burrs in the hub mating surface with a centre punch. Not ideal, but it works and saves complete hub replacement.
Good luck but do remember, if in any doubt at all- replace the bug*er!

[Deathrow]

All taken on board! I'll be very thorough (I am with this stuff usually anyway ).

Thanks guys!