Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

How To Tell A Genuine Cooper


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 2lrminivan

2lrminivan

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 276 posts

Posted 14 June 2011 - 04:01 PM

Im looking into buying a cooper early mid 60s one and just wondering how can you tell if its a genuine cooper .
what bits do i need to look out for, did they have a letter in the chassis plate ?
dont want to buy one and find out it not real

cheers
Andy

#2 pdaykin

pdaykin

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 587 posts

Posted 14 June 2011 - 04:53 PM

Im looking into buying a cooper early mid 60s one and just wondering how can you tell if its a genuine cooper .
what bits do i need to look out for, did they have a letter in the chassis plate ?
dont want to buy one and find out it not real

cheers
Andy



Its harder to tell a Cooper than a Cooper S as there were fewer changes over the standard mini. Cooper and Cooper S share a chassis number prefix (KA2S4 MK1 morris, CA2S7 MK1 Austin) which is different form the standard minis (MA2S4 mk1 Morris, AA2S7 mk1 Auston). But the number is not stamped on the 'shell - it is just a plate which is screwed on above the radiator - and is very easy to change.

The most obvious are:
1. Cut out for remote gearchange and cover plate for "normal" mini gearlever
2. Boot board brackets - although some minis (supers) did have them
3. Chrome trim on outside of doors
4. Disc brakes (7" Cooper, 7.5" Cooper S - again these are often changed)
5. Two tone interior trim - although some minis (supers) did have them
6. 100mph speedo on Cooper (120/130 mph Cooper S)
7. Key start ignition
8. Smaller rear window and rounded rear lights of it is a MK1
9. External door hinges on mk1 and mk2
10. Black vinyl trim on top dash rail and windscreen-pillar
11. Ash tray with lid in top-dash rail - some other models also had this.
12. Some early non-cooper cars had "C" and "H" on their choke and heater controls. IIRC the Cooper/Cooper S always had the words on them.


Sure I'll think of more, so may edit my post later

#3 mab01uk

mab01uk

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,416 posts
  • Local Club: Mini Cooper Register

Posted 14 June 2011 - 05:05 PM

If by 'real' and 'genuine' you mean totally original in all respects then you can only be sure by a fully documented proven history and ownership record. Over the last 50 years or so few 1960's Mini Coopers have survived unmolested and many have been much modified by past owners and through a couple of restorations by now, some of which would have involved re-shelling into more rust or accident free bodyshells from a less valuable donor Mini like a Mk1/2 850 or even rebuilt from parts and a logbook. Not necessarily a bad thing but it may affect how much you want to pay...........even basket cases are no longer cheap or common.

The 'Mini Cooper Register' has registers and 'experts' for each type so is a good place to start:
http://forum.minicooper.org/

Edited by mab01uk, 14 June 2011 - 05:07 PM.


#4 mk1leg

mk1leg

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,343 posts
  • Location: Jersey
  • Local Club: Mini Club Jersey, MCR

Posted 14 June 2011 - 11:23 PM

get yourself this book............ http://www.amazon.co...l/dp/187097932X this is the cooper and S bible............. :)

#5 2lrminivan

2lrminivan

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 276 posts

Posted 15 June 2011 - 07:11 PM

thanks for the replys very helpfull
so if a mini didnt have a chassis plate but it was stamped into the panel near the wing why would that be ?

Andy

Edited by 2lrminivan, 15 June 2011 - 09:58 PM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users